Hi All, I have a 06 f360 PSD 6 speed. On a road trip and the clutch pedal is getting very close to the floor. No Slippage but the longer I leave the pedal pressed the worse it gets.

Are there any good descriptions how the clutch in this truck works?? Slave cyl??

 

Can be one of two things, either the master cylinder up on the firewall next to the brake master or the slave cylinder down in or on the side of the transmission.

how many miles? Ever had a clutch replaced yet?

 

170,000 miles and have not replaced. Im on a road trip far from home and if at home it would already be in my shop, But.... In Cali near San Fran and although my clutch and PP are probly due to be changed I would rather not. Like I said its not slipping at all,

Is the slave a big deal to change out??

 

Here are some basics to check;

1-Check if you have any clutch fluid leak . Underneath the truck on bell housing (driver's side ) see the slave cylinder mounted . Any leak marks?

2-Check clutch reservoir (remove the cap , remove the black rubber diaphragm ) check fluid level , add if necessary (brake fluid ) .

3- Any leak from master cylinder area (firewall) ?

Good luck,

 

If the slave is external it is easy to change. Internal the trans has to come out. Normally like mentioned the slave will leak if it is bad.

The master is one that may not leak and be bad. Also not a big job.

Like mentioned pop the cap off the master and check the fluid. If it is full yet it is a good bet the master is bad. If it is low there is a chance the slave is bad.

There is a slight possibility the pressure plate is getting bad or clutch itself is falling apart or the flywheel warped.

With most all these things the clutch won't slip.

 

Thanks Guys. I will check for leaks in the morning. I was looking around for info and found this on Ford Nation. If its a bad slave what do you all think of this TEMP fix?

--I'll tell you what's wrong.....

You have a ford truck with a manual tranny. That's why it won't disengage. The clutch mechanics are a joke on these trucks. Second only in worthlessness to the clutch hydraulics.

The only thing you can do without buying anything... is to pull the slave cylinder out of the bellhousing and slowly cycle the shaft all the way in the cylinder and then let it push it's self back out again. Repeat that about 4 or 5 times and try it. If it's still not good enough do it more, up to 5 more times. But be aware that if you get carried away, #1, you might not be able to get it back in the tranny because of the pre-load needed to push it back in there, and #2 if you're making decent power you might slip the clutch because the throwout bearing may be applying pressure to the diaphram even without you touching the pedal.

So, just try about 5 cycles.

To get the slave out do NOT remove the line. Simply grab it on that big molded plastic nut and while pushing it toward the front of the truck, simultaneously rotate it counter clockwise (left) and it will snap out. Be aware that the rod leaving the slave will likely have a little plastic dickfore hanging off the end of it to try and snag on the bellhousing and pull the rod out of the slave and drop it in the bottom of the hellhousing. Avoid this.

To put it back in, just do the opposite of the removal.



Other option....

Buy a new master/slave assembly from Ford for around 130 to 150 or so bucks. If you do this, be sure to also buy a new actuator rod that goes from the clutch pedal to the master cylinder as well as the little pos plastic snap bushing that is used to hold the rod to the pedal as it will be worn out/destroyed by your removal method. Alternatively you can choose to not purchase a new pedal actuator rod and instead take a hammer and smash hell out of the old master cylinder releasing the rod from it to reuse. Choice is yours. I personally enjoy beating hell out of the plastic junk and reusing the rod.

To remove the master cylinder...

Lay on the floor of the truck, looking up under the dash with the driver's seat all the way back for room. With a flashlight and a small screwdriver pop the little cover off of the clutch saftey switch (this switch will be against the master cylinder at the firewall, but will move toward the pedal if pushed away to get more room). With the cover off, it will pop off of the rod and hang freely. Then pry the rod off of the little stud on the clutch pedal leaving the rod hanging out of the mastercylinder.

At this point go around to the underhood area and grab hold of the master cylinder and rotate it similar to how you do the slave out of the tranny bellhosing. I do not remember the direction of rotation off hand, but it will only go one way. Do NOT worry about breaking the pos. It will likely take some serious force. Sometimes not, but sometimes it does.

Once you have it free, pry the little plastic "trees" that hold the reservoir to the harness cover out near the cowl. Be very carefull not to break this thing. It's very delicate.

Route the little reservoir and line down toward the frame so that the master and the reservoir/line are all shoved down near the back of the engine or simply hanging down past the frame.

Then go under the truck and pop the line out of a few of those little pastic snap holders along the body.

That's it. It's out of your life.



To reinstall the new one...

Install the slave cylinder into the bellhousing by pushing forward and twisting to the right until it clicks in place. LEAVE the plastic strap on the rod. It will break when you mash the pedal the first time, but serves to keep the rod from falling off in the meantime.

Resnap the line into all the little clips along the underside of the body and shove the master/slave up on top of the frame rail or inner-fender so that you can grab them from above.

Go up top and grab them and route the master over to it's hole and install by pushing toward the firewall and twisting opposite of the direction you removed it in until it clicks in place.

Then route the reservoir up to it's little tab on the wire harness cover and reinstall the little plastic "trees" on each side taking care not to break the delicate little flower of a plastic tab...

Go inside the truck and do N O T clip the new actuator rod and plastic bushing onto the pedal yet. First push it into the master cylinder otherwise you may not be able to move the pedal far enough back to facilitate getting the rod into the master.

With the end opposite the loop in the rod pushed into the master, install the little plastic bushing into the rod loop and push both the rod and bushing together over the stud on the pedal until they snap in place. Remember to reinstall the clutch safetey switch by slipping it over the rod and snapping the cover back on. It is sometimes useful to rotate the switch around the rod to make removing and resnapping the cover easier.

Now sit in the seat and push the pedal down. You should feel the rod snap into the master cylinder and the little strap pop off of the rod in the slave cylinder in the bellhousing.

All good.


Alternatively you could install the master and reservoir and drop the slave down from the top. But the wicked *** bends in the line like to fight you. I've done it each way about 4 or 5 times, so it's a toss up.

Good Luck.



Oh, third option. Get a non-stock clutch that has better diaphram leverages. I can recommend a guy if you like. Otherwise, Southbend seems to be the mass supplier.



HOLY HELL that got long.
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#5 Old 06-05-2008, 10:16 PM
CATdiezel's Avatar CATdiezel
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Sometimes the master will develop play in it, when you push in the clutch look on the firewall you can see the whole assembly pushing out. Not sure about the 6.0 but this is common on the 7.3.

 

I think that is common on most all vehicles. I would say half of the cars/trucks I have had to bleed clutches or brakes on the firewall will flex some when the peddles are pressed.

 

Also my clutch peal will not come all the way back up

 

that is pretty typical of low fluid. Because it is not pushing the slave/clutch all the way in the clutch isn't pushing the peddle all the way back up on return.

have you popped the cap off to see how much fluid is in the reservoir?

Not sure if it is a problem on fords or not but some cars have problems with the clutch fork cracking or bending causing the same problems.

You'll need to inspect the slave for fluid leak (wet), check the reservoir, and get back to us with info.

 

The master was pulled today and the fluid was very dirty, looked like metal shavings in there. both the master and slave are being replaced thanks to Robins Auto Service in Greenbrae CA Just north of San Francisco

Thanks to All who have commented on this thread!!

 

Well at least it wasn't the clutch, pressure plate, or flywheel.

 

I had clutch /slave cylinder let go in 2007 F 350 with no leak's,no strange pedal activity,just would not go into gear after stopping for red light at intersection.
Took it/towed to a garage and after three different slave cylinder /master cylinder sealed unit's the guy had shipped,,he finally had to go to ford dealership to find the one that worked .
Other unit's he was assured should fit but they would not work ,
Ford's OEM was about another hundred dollar's over the three he tried.
Went ahead and had clutch(Luk),pressure plate,throwout bearing,pilot bearing replaced for the tranny had to be moved back and lowered anyway for the pre/bled slave,clutch cylinder assembly to be installed.
2007 F 350 SRW ,5.4 litre ,cold air intake,catback dual exhaust,6 inch lift.35 inch tires.

 

According to 2001 Ford Repair Manual , transmission does not need to be removed in order to replace clutch hydraulic system ( master &slave cylinders, hydraulic hoses and reservoir ).

 

Maybe different for 2007 model?
Shop said slave cylinder install required tranny to be moved back,and down a bit.
Ain't sayin your wrong,just sayin.