I have mounted a swinging peddle assm. in my 52 F-1 and cannot find fittings to mount a pressure brake switch on the master cylinder.
I have two 3/16" line ports to feed the front wheels but I only plan to use one and "T" off to go to the other side on the front.

another port feeds the rear brakes.

To get a pressure switch on the cylinder I would have to have an adaptor to go in one of the front 3/16" inverted flare ports and adapt to a pressure switch.

Unless someone can come up with a better idea I am going to mount a switch under the dash on the brake peddle.

TractormanBill

 

Put a "T" in the line to the rear and place your switch in it. That is how I have ran mine for years.

 

I would say go with a GM style switch on the brake pedal, just make a small bracket and that's it.



If your really set on a hyd pressure switch then look for a trailer tee.

 

Either of the above ideas will work fine. You can also run a brake line from the open fitting you show to a flare to pipe thread adapter and install the pressure switch there. Otherwise be sure and cap the open port before you begin to bleed of your going to have a mess.

 

Unless you already have the parts handy, midfifty sells a kit to do what you need.

 

I like the gm style switch better than the inline hydraulic switch. I found you had to apply a great deal of pressure on the pedal to make the lights come on where the gm style the lights come on instantly which I think would be handy in heavier traffic. The last thing I want is someone piling into the back of me because he/she didn't see my brake lights. Brakes are important and so is a warning for anyone following you.

 

Switch on the pedal for me. One of the early GM switches with the arm that rests on the pedal.

 

Thanks for all the suggestions and I already have a GM switch so I will just make a bracket and mount on the peddle assm.
TractormanBill

 

Any time you can use an electrical switch instead of a hydraulic one you are way ahead of the game. If you ever install a cruise control you cannot use the hydraulic switch. The GM swich is as good as any. I used the original switch on my pedal from the T-bird. As soon as you touch the pedal the lights come on and the cruise disengages.

 

I am convinced, go electrical and help clean up the engine compartment.
TractormanBill

 

Could someone post a pic of how the electric switch mounts? Now I think I want to go this route too. I have a stock pedal so I'm not sure how this thing works...

 

If you don't have a bracket to hold the switch you can make one fairly easy. Position the switch against the pedal arm so that as soon as you start pushing the pedal it opens the switch.

 

Position the switch against the pedal arm so that as soon as you start pushing the pedal it closes the switch.

John I fixed it for you

 

Thanks

 

THere is a $6+ switch at Advanced Auto Parts or nearly any other auto parts store for an 1980 Camaro.

It has two nuts where you can adjust it in the bracket to where the brake arm pushes the button in a little when you are not on the peddle.

The switch is not connecting the terminals when the plunger is pushed in a little and the lights will be off. As soon as the peddle moves away from the plunger the terminals will connect turning on the brake lights.

As you push the peddle in and take up the free play in the master cylinder stroke it should turn the lights on.

I have a question on free play on my swinging peddle assm.
Should I put a light spring on the brake arm to keep free play and not let the peddle rest against the master cylinder push rod?

TractormanBill