Well underway putting the ole girl back together and just noticed the carburetor I have on my flathead (fully rebuilt) is an 8ba and not an 8rt, and thus doesn't have the arm on the throttle body for the throttle cable. Oops. And of course, I rebuilt the carb too. So.... Can I just get an 8rt throttle body and use the 8ba throttle? Or extend the throttle shaft and make a connection for the throttle cable? Thoughts would be appreciated.

Also, the engine runs great, but it takes forever the prime the gas. I stayed old school and put on a rebuilt original fuel pump. Can I add a small in-line fuel pump to assist in the gas flow when it hasn't been started in awhile without overpressuring the mechanical fuel pump. Again, thoughts appreciated.

Here is the engine in the frame, without the body. But we have the cab blasted and repaired and the front end on now!

https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos?p...61253316619232

Thanks

Mark

 

On the carb, the correct carb base would be a 7RT. Is your shaft sticking out but just doesn't have the arm? Or is the shaft flush with the throttle base? I can't say I've seen the correct throttle shaft for sale, but Vintage Speed sells throttle shafts with a long extension on that side for tri-carb systems, it could be adapted. The lever is H-39-H, you'd need the throttle cap H-39-F, and a spring H-39-G.

I suspect you don't have a lot of gas in the tank? Have the tank and all of the lines been cleaned thoroughly? A good fuel pump will suck gas up thru clean lines very quickly. The fuel line on the firewall will be full of gas up to the level of gas in the tank, so it only has to fill a foot or two of line to be sending gas to the carb. Check for leaks at the rubber hose to the pump inlet.

You can add a priming pump, but for the same amount of effort, you can just go all-electric.

 

Thanks Ross,

My carb doesn't have the shaft extended like I now know it should. Seems vintage speed has what I need to adapt, or I'll look at just getting the right throttle body off ebay.

You could say I don't have alot of gas. I'm still using a 5 gallon gas can! LOL All the plumbing is new and I even went so far as to not use any rubber and flanged the lines. But it is probably not air tight. I'll look into the priming pump as it seems cheap enough ($40 on amazon for 6v positive ground) and a quick fix. Better than running the starter forever. I do like the idea of seeing the old school glass bowl on it!

Thanks for the input!

Mark

 

The glass bowl is a common source of air leaks, as well as gas leaks. From what I hear, a cork gasket is the best.

 

I've bought the extended shafts and cut the T end on as to fit the arm, spring and retainer. In addition to cutting the T, you have to turn down the end of the shaft prior to the T so the retainer will fit on. Most of these extended shafts are a bit oversize.

I may have a base, the arm/spring/retainer, and the cable bracket. I'll have to check the bases I have as some 7RTs/8RTs did not have the hand throttle lever.

 

I'd recommend you put in a rubber hose section like original, into the fuel pump. The engine moves around enough to warrant it. I'd also use a high-quality hose, like this: http://www.gates.com/downloads/BarricadeBrochure.pdf

 

Well, I've a retainer and spring. Assuming you need the throttle arm with the brass, swivel, I've struck out on that.

 

Thanks Ross. Great idea. I didn't think about the shaking, just being overly **** in not adding any unnecessary connections. I will do that when I change the carb.

Thanks 1952 Henry for looking. Greatly appreciated.

I also realized tonight as I sat the air filter on how poorly it fit with the 8ab carb. I guess on the prowl for a 94 is the right answer long term. Theres a bunch on ebay.

Thanks again, insight is greatly appreciated.

Mark

 

This would be an 8RT (marked 7RT on bowl, but an 8RT due to the cable operated choke and hand throttle levers). It has the truck top, which is what your air cleaner (if a truck cleaner) needs.

 

Thanks Henry, that's a big help.