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Slip Joint Regrease Urgent Question

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Old Dec 30, 2013 | 03:09 PM
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Slip Joint Regrease Urgent Question

I decided to undertake this little no cost project and ended up with a question before reassembling. I did mark both ends but how "crucial" is it that they align back up 100%, can they be off a spline? I noticed the rear one was about three splines off. Does the double spline in the front make a difference where it aligns?

I also noticed some leakage - it is in the rear diff, where the u-joints connect, does it look like an oil leak to you?
 
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Old Dec 30, 2013 | 03:19 PM
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100% lined up or no good. The yoke at each end have to be inline or no good
 
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Old Dec 30, 2013 | 03:20 PM
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!@#%^#

OK, thank you, back to the drawing board . Appreciate the quick reply.
 
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Old Dec 30, 2013 | 04:09 PM
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Well, I was so careful to make sure the line was drawn correctly, etc.. and I think I have it lined up, however, what would I notice if I was off? It seems weird that with the u-joint the way it is how could it get mis-aligned since the ujoints only fit one way (having it jacked up without moving wheels).

Anyway, what would I notice if I was not 100% aligned?
 
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Old Dec 30, 2013 | 04:14 PM
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a good viberation.
You want to look at the end caps at each end. They must be perfect. Not even 1 tooth off
 
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Old Dec 30, 2013 | 10:30 PM
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Hmm, well, I think I just got lucky then because I put it all back together and went for a drive, up to 60mph and no vibration yahoo!

Thank you!

I think what I did wrong was marked them both at the same time so when i went to unbolt it, it slipped and blah blah blah.
 
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Old Dec 31, 2013 | 07:20 AM
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Originally Posted by jwhopson
Hmm, well, I think I just got lucky then because I put it all back together and went for a drive, up to 60mph and no vibration yahoo!

Thank you!

I think what I did wrong was marked them both at the same time so when i went to unbolt it, it slipped and blah blah blah.
I believe the spline has a couple of "teeth" machined in a skip pattern, only goes together one way.
 
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Old Dec 31, 2013 | 08:45 AM
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I don't really believe it is that important to line it up perfectly. I replaced mine with a new one which means I had no way to line anything up & I have absolutely no vibrations. Biggest thing I think is just to have a good, well ballanced driveshaft. Also the leakage is most likely your rear pinion seal. If you had the pinion off anyway its the perfect time to replace it. Its a $12 dollar part & a 5 min job.
 
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Old Dec 31, 2013 | 08:57 AM
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replacing that leaky seal, may be a 5min job, but setting the "crush-sleeve" is an all new ballgame. Its not a, remove yoke, pop seal off, install new seal, then hammer yoke on with impact...job
 
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Old Dec 31, 2013 | 10:36 AM
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Originally Posted by timmyboy76
replacing that leaky seal, may be a 5min job, but setting the "crush-sleeve" is an all new ballgame. Its not a, remove yoke, pop seal off, install new seal, then hammer yoke on with impact...job
No that is true. Propper torque of the pinion nut is crucial. I believe 150 ft/lbs is the factory spec but don't quote me on that.
 
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Old Dec 31, 2013 | 10:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Bigtruc
Also the leakage is most likely your rear pinion seal. If you had the pinion off anyway its the perfect time to replace it. Its a $12 dollar part & a 5 min job.
If you call pulling the diff cover, diff and ring gear, pinion, remove/install pinion seal, check bearings, install new crush sleeve, install pinion with proper pinion bearing pre-load, install diff/ring gear, diff cover, new fluid a 5 minute job, you're more of a wrench than I am. LOL It's not a hard job, but it's definitely not a 5 minute job to do it correctly... Especially if any of those bearings need to be replaced for any reason.
 
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Old Jan 1, 2014 | 03:18 AM
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That leak in the picture is not the pinion seal, that is gear oil wicking down the pinion shaft. You would have to pull the yoke, clean, apply sealer and re-torque the pinion nut. If you do that you might as well replace the pinion seal but don't forget to grease the inside of the seal before installing the yoke and no you don't need to replace the crush sleeve.
 
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Old Jan 1, 2014 | 11:30 AM
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Originally Posted by jwhopson
I decided to undertake this little no cost project and ended up with a question before reassembling. I did mark both ends but how "crucial" is it that they align back up 100%, can they be off a spline? I noticed the rear one was about three splines off. Does the double spline in the front make a difference where it aligns?

I also noticed some leakage - it is in the rear diff, where the u-joints connect, does it look like an oil leak to you?
Had the same problem when I did mine a few years ago but mine was on the ground & even though I thought I had the wheels chocked it moved ever so slightly (Guessing here) & when I went to put it back together it took me a while to get it all lined back up.Amazing how a little grease quiets down the clunks. Now if I could only do this to my knees & back !
 
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