Wanting to rebuild my 88 ford 460. Had about 3 months and it's been in the shop more than not, so deciding to rebuild to prevent future unexpected damage. This will be my first rebuild ever and could use many pointers. Going to try and go with a gasket kit, master rebuild kit with double roller, any other cheap upgrades, on a very limited budget, I know I can buy a master rebuild kit from eBay. Already have a bunch in the truck to see it go to waste. But don't want to pay the shop 3grand to rebuild it... On top of that need a new radiator, power steering hose and alignment on tires, already have over 2k in it with labor XD

 

I've assembled many engines for my own use with just new rings and rod bearings and main bearings if there is no major wear in the cylinder bores.

Things you can not really do yourself.
Pressing new pistons on the rods,
Cam Bearings, they have are pressed in.
Turning the crank is needed.
Valve job,

Things I do when on a tight budget and just need it running again.
Reuse the pistons, and just clean the ring grooves, I use an old ring for that.
Hone the cylinders and cut the ridge out if needed but being a 460 I bet there is very little wear on the block.
Just polish the crank journals with emery cloth to make sure there is no nicks or burrs.
Pull the cam and look for copper on the cam bearings, if so they need to be replaced.
If you reuse the lifters make sure they go back in the same hole you pulled them from.
I do the same with rods and pistons, they go back in the same hole and do not mix up rod caps. Number them.

Valves, if they are not recessed heavy in the head, I replace the seals and just lap them in for a good seal.
If the Valve guides have a lot of wear its going to the shop for new guides and a valve job.

Reassemble I like to use STP on the bearings so they do not start dry, I also oil all the rings when I put on the ring compressor so the slide easier down the hole.
Slide a piece of fuel line over each rod bolt so they can't nick the crank if you installed the crank first. The plus side on this is it keeps the rod bearing in place too.

Just take your time and after each piece goes and torqued turn the crank to make sure it feels good and there are no surprises later.

 

Which manual is the best on pictures mostly and info..?