where is the vin
#16
Hey 75390,
Here is a '56 F100 frame not far from you in Arcola. The guy wants $500 for it & it's suspension has been adjusted a bit. If he's got a title & the work was done well - it might be worth negotiating.
1953, 1954, 1955, 1956 ford truck f100, f-100, rat rod, hot rod, rod
My advice to anyone thinking about restoring one of these old trucks is to get the best Cab & Body you can find. You most likely will upgrade the drivetrain anyway but you can grind & patch on a rusted out cab for a long time. You'd be 6 to 9 months ahead if you have a solid truck body to start with.
Good luck down there.
Ben in Austin
1950 F1
Here is a '56 F100 frame not far from you in Arcola. The guy wants $500 for it & it's suspension has been adjusted a bit. If he's got a title & the work was done well - it might be worth negotiating.
1953, 1954, 1955, 1956 ford truck f100, f-100, rat rod, hot rod, rod
My advice to anyone thinking about restoring one of these old trucks is to get the best Cab & Body you can find. You most likely will upgrade the drivetrain anyway but you can grind & patch on a rusted out cab for a long time. You'd be 6 to 9 months ahead if you have a solid truck body to start with.
Good luck down there.
Ben in Austin
1950 F1
#17
Problem with putting it back on a stock frame is how much modifications did the PO do to mount it on the GM frame, it's not like they just interchange. Steel flip front ends can be very awkward to manage, they are heavy and very flexible if not well braced, the bottom of the fenders fenders will not clear the cowl, so they have to be cut and modified to work. If the truck is not very complete, the necessary small parts, i.e. dash gauges, window glass, steering column, brake system, etc etc etc can nickle and dime you to death.
I agree with Ben you would be money far ahead if you buy the very best truck you can find to start with. A cheap start usually ends up costing a lot more in the end, especially if you don't have a lot of skills, equipment, and experience. There's a reason the project was abandoned, and on one like this it's usually because the PO didn't know what he was doing. and got in way over his head.
I agree with Ben you would be money far ahead if you buy the very best truck you can find to start with. A cheap start usually ends up costing a lot more in the end, especially if you don't have a lot of skills, equipment, and experience. There's a reason the project was abandoned, and on one like this it's usually because the PO didn't know what he was doing. and got in way over his head.
#18
#21
#22
#24
Try reading the earlier posts, the plate on the glove box door is just for convenience (as you indicated it is simply screwed in place) it is NOT the legal identification of the vehicle. The legal identifier is the serial # stamped into the top of the passenger side frame rail. If THAT # doesn't match your ownership, you don't legally own that vehicle, no other # or location matters.
#25
No scrapper (in the US anyway) is going to risk it for a couple hundred bucks. Here's a good summary: Messing with a VIN tag can get you an orange jump suit! - THE H.A.M.B.
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