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Engine Swap 302 to a 7.3 IDI vin K?

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Old 12-22-2013, 02:26 PM
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Question Engine Swap 302 to a 7.3 IDI vin K?

Okay, so my brother in law has a 94 Ford F350 with a 7.3 IDI (Factory Ford Turbo --VIN K--) However, it has hit 230k miles and is in need of its first rebuild(Burning a gallon of oil about every 100 miles). He has a rebuilt 96 Powerstroke 7.3 with the computers and wiring harness sitting on the floor to put in his truck. I have the option of picking this engine up for free and a fresh rebuilt ZF5 for some cash. My questions are:

Has anybody done this? I used the search bar and was unable to find anything.

Does anybody know if the motor mounts for a 7.3L are the same as the 6.9L?

If they are, are the motor mount locations the same for a truck with a 302 and a 6.9L?

For some reason, I want to believe the 6.9 and 7.3 are similar in appearance, but I am unsure. I'm thinking this would be a fun project to turn my F250 into a real truck, but I'm trying to figure out what I will be getting myself into. I've still got to rebuild a kingpin 60 and replace my ttb front end.
 
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Old 12-22-2013, 02:49 PM
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The 6.9 and 7.3 IDI used the same block casting, just a bigger (+.110 IIRC) bore.

To swap the IDI into place, you would need the frame stands for a diesel, along with a (much) larger radiator to keep it cool.
 
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Old 12-22-2013, 02:51 PM
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About the oil burning issue, are you sure it's not just seals in the turbo? These IDI's are usually good for a lot more than 200K..........
 
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Old 12-22-2013, 03:31 PM
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sounds like your gonna do what I did, I swapped from a 351 to an idi on my 82 f250, youll have to knock the sbf frame mounts off and bolt on the diesel plates in place, a few of the holes will line up but you will have to drill the rest also you have to notch under the plates for the motor mount bolts. The other mod you will need is a core support off a diesel truck to fit the radiator. Of course you will need I zf from a diesel truck and the cross member to go with that, other than that most of the other stuff will bolt in place. if you need pics I can post some of my beast.
 
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Old 12-22-2013, 03:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Rogue_Wulff
About the oil burning issue, are you sure it's not just seals in the turbo? These IDI's are usually good for a lot more than 200K..........
That's what I was thinking. I'm going out to his place on the holidays. While I was out there, I was planning on bringing my tools to run a compression test. If it's rings, I'd imagine it would have bad compression. I also planned on looking at the turbo too. He had mentioned that it burns more oil when under a load than when it does unladen. If he lets the truck sit for a few days he says that it will idle rough for about 15 minutes(pumping gray/white smoke out of the stacks) and then clear up and run just fine. I can't imagine it would be on it's way to the grave just yet. Either way, I plan on giving it a good once over if I can get it running right before I'd try stuffing it in.
 
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Old 12-22-2013, 03:50 PM
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Originally Posted by lonewolfone
sounds like your gonna do what I did, I swapped from a 351 to an idi on my 82 f250, youll have to knock the sbf frame mounts off and bolt on the diesel plates in place, a few of the holes will line up but you will have to drill the rest also you have to notch under the plates for the motor mount bolts. The other mod you will need is a core support off a diesel truck to fit the radiator. Of course you will need I zf from a diesel truck and the cross member to go with that, other than that most of the other stuff will bolt in place. if you need pics I can post some of my beast.
Thank you for the information! I do have a an opportunity to pick up diesel zf5. Pictures would be helpful!
 
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Old 12-22-2013, 03:55 PM
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One item to look into, that is easily overlooked, the turbo oil drain. My boss has a Cummins 12V swapped into his 05 F350, with compound turbos. It was sucking oil thru one of the turbos. He took it off to rebuild, and I saw how the drain was plumbed. It went uphill from the turbo, before t'ing into the drain from the other turbo.
I convinced him to reroute that drain thru the side of the oil pan. It no longer sucks oil thru the turbo........

In other words, a restricted or plugged up oil drain can (usually will) cause excessive oil consumption........ It has to go *somewhere*.......
 
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Old 12-22-2013, 04:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Rogue_Wulff
One item to look into, that is easily overlooked, the turbo oil drain. My boss has a Cummins 12V swapped into his 05 F350, with compound turbos. It was sucking oil thru one of the turbos. He took it off to rebuild, and I saw how the drain was plumbed. It went uphill from the turbo, before t'ing into the drain from the other turbo.
I convinced him to reroute that drain thru the side of the oil pan. It no longer sucks oil thru the turbo........

In other words, a restricted or plugged up oil drain can (usually will) cause excessive oil consumption........ It has to go *somewhere*.......
I will keep this in mind. I appreciate the advice!
 
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Old 12-22-2013, 04:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Athanasius
I will keep this in mind. I appreciate the advice!
No problem.

FWIW, I work on these things for a living. here are my thoughts on the various diesel engines.
I detest duramax engines. Nothing is easy to get to on these POS engines. Everything is expensive.
Power Stroke engines, I wouldn't have anything other than the 7.3. Too problematic design for the sick-o (6.0) and sick-***** (6.4). Usually requires massive cubic dollars to keep on the road. 6.7 is too new to really get an overall idea about.
Ford/IH IDI are solid and dependable, but really needed a turbo. You seem to have this issue licked....
Cummins I like, in the 5.9L version. The 6.7L is ok, but most owners that have had both will state they liked the 5.9 better, if they are being truly honest. It did whatever was needed, usually on less fuel.

I really prefer the "old school" mechanical injection used on the IDI and 12V cummins. 24V cummins can be (somewhat) easily converted to mechanical injection.

I had been planning to go with a 6.9/7.3 IDI when the 300 gives up, but have recently decided to switch over to the 5.9 cummins.
The 300 is getting tired, so the time for a swap is getting closer. Likely going to happen in the next few months.

Diesel is the way to go, in my opinion. I just don't want a computer controlled diesel........ Though I would take a 24V Cummins, since I know how to de-computerize them.......
 
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Old 12-22-2013, 04:46 PM
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The 94 idi turbo will run even better if you get the bigger elbow outlet for the turbo, and get a muffler shop to make you a new downfall pipe. The original pipe is almost smashed shut from the factory.
 
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Old 12-22-2013, 05:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Franklin2
The 94 idi turbo will run even better if you get the bigger elbow outlet for the turbo, and get a muffler shop to make you a new downfall pipe. The original pipe is almost smashed shut from the factory.
True. Just be aware that the cab has a pinch weld seam that will (likely) need messaged a bit to fit a freer flowing downpipe......
 
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Old 12-22-2013, 05:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Rogue_Wulff
No problem.

FWIW, I work on these things for a living. here are my thoughts on the various diesel engines.
I detest duramax engines. Nothing is easy to get to on these POS engines. Everything is expensive.
Power Stroke engines, I wouldn't have anything other than the 7.3. Too problematic design for the sick-o (6.0) and sick-***** (6.4). Usually requires massive cubic dollars to keep on the road. 6.7 is too new to really get an overall idea about.
Ford/IH IDI are solid and dependable, but really needed a turbo. You seem to have this issue licked....
Cummins I like, in the 5.9L version. The 6.7L is ok, but most owners that have had both will state they liked the 5.9 better, if they are being truly honest. It did whatever was needed, usually on less fuel.

I really prefer the "old school" mechanical injection used on the IDI and 12V cummins. 24V cummins can be (somewhat) easily converted to mechanical injection.

I had been planning to go with a 6.9/7.3 IDI when the 300 gives up, but have recently decided to switch over to the 5.9 cummins.
The 300 is getting tired, so the time for a swap is getting closer. Likely going to happen in the next few months.

Diesel is the way to go, in my opinion. I just don't want a computer controlled diesel........ Though I would take a 24V Cummins, since I know how to de-computerize them.......
Thanks for the background knowledge.

I have to agree, Duramax is junk. I do not trust those Izuzu money pits. I spent 3 years working in a family owned shop. We worked on a fleet of those trucks for a equipment rental company. They specifically liked those with the 6.6L and the Powerstrokes with the 6.0L

I normally had to do preventive maintenance, but towards the end I ended up doing a headjob on a Kodiak C4500. That was possibly the worst 30-40 hours of my life.

The 6.0L and 6.4L Powerstrokes are not any fun to work on either. I've done plenty of injectors, --a set twice, the inside stuff that they had painted the inside of a tank on an F450 decayed, got past the inframe fuel filter and the filter up on top, and took more injectors-- Those engines are only any good once you dump several thousand dollars of modifications into them starting with an egr delete and headstuds. Too costly for my blood.

and well Cummins, I never really dealt with those besides preventive maintenance and the occasional automatic transmission replacement, if that says anything.

As for the IDI, I plan on either rebuilding or replacing the turbo, and possibly pumping up the fuel delivery system with new injectors and an injection pump. I'm also looking at the fact that if it's not broke, don't fix it. It's hard to say. I want it to beef it up, but want it to remain dependable too. The IDI's are a new breed to me because I haven't really played with them.


Originally Posted by Franklin2
The 94 idi turbo will run even better if you get the bigger elbow outlet for the turbo, and get a muffler shop to make you a new downfall pipe. The original pipe is almost smashed shut from the factory.
I have access to a torch, mig welder, and a tubing bender that will do up to 3" I plan on running 3" Straight Pipe all the way to 6" Stacks that I want to do out of the bed, or run duals underneath. I just haven't decided yet. I planned on just straight piping the truck too. I might put a muffler in if I decide it's too loud. I don't have to worry about emissions where I'm at.
 
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Old 12-22-2013, 06:06 PM
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I agree about the 6.0/6.4. I just did an oil cooler on one this week. While the EGR cooler was off, blocked both ends to prevent future issues...... That was immediately following a water pump on a duramax. After the 6.0, I did high pressure oil pump and injectors on a DT466. Been a pretty good week, hours-wise......

I've only been inside 1 cummins. 24V. Tach started acting up, and ECU threw a code for can position sensor. Sensor was fine, but only read intermittantly.... The cam gear had walked off the cam about 1/4". The truck had over 1M miles, but the engine had been replaced due to a burned piston. Not sure how many miles was on the replacement engine, as it had come out of a wrecked truck, but they estimated it to have well over 500K when crashed. I later had to replace the injectors on this same engine. Turns out, they had pulled them out of the 1M+ engine. Cracked tip on 1, likely the cause of the burned piston in the original engine.......
Every other Cummins that has come in, was for something other than internal engine issues. Even the newer common rail setups.


I dislike straight pipes and stacks, but I know many that love them. Stacks tend to throw black liquid during startup, and straight pipes are just a bit too loud for my taste. Especially with stacks, when you are inside the cab........


When I do the Cummins swap, I am seriously considering a 4" downpipe, muffler, and dual 2.5-3" tail pipes exiting behind the rear tires. Nothing like a dual stream of diesel smoke to make people wonder what the heck is under the hood......
 
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Old 12-22-2013, 11:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Rogue_Wulff
I've only been inside 1 cummins. 24V. Tach started acting up, and ECU threw a code for can position sensor. Sensor was fine, but only read intermittantly.... The cam gear had walked off the cam about 1/4". The truck had over 1M miles, but the engine had been replaced due to a burned piston. Not sure how many miles was on the replacement engine, as it had come out of a wrecked truck, but they estimated it to have well over 500K when crashed. I later had to replace the injectors on this same engine. Turns out, they had pulled them out of the 1M+ engine. Cracked tip on 1, likely the cause of the burned piston in the original engine.......
Every other Cummins that has come in, was for something other than internal engine issues. Even the newer common rail setups.


I dislike straight pipes and stacks, but I know many that love them. Stacks tend to throw black liquid during startup, and straight pipes are just a bit too loud for my taste. Especially with stacks, when you are inside the cab........


When I do the Cummins swap, I am seriously considering a 4" downpipe, muffler, and dual 2.5-3" tail pipes exiting behind the rear tires. Nothing like a dual stream of diesel smoke to make people wonder what the heck is under the hood......
Yeah, I guess Cam Position Sensors are common on high mileage Cummins. I had to replace one on the Cummins M11 in my Uncles 93 Freightliner FLD 120 when he came through town. It only had 1,400,000 miles though

On the stacks, I have this truck for inspiration, which is the donor truck for my truck. It looks good.
As for the straight pipes, the 302 is straight piped, true duals with glasspacks. I figure I'll run the 7.3 straight piped for a minute and see if I can adjust or add in a muffler at a later time. I like both looks, and I want both, but the stacks are uncommon where I'm at. I want it to stand out. I guess I'm that person
 
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Old 12-23-2013, 06:49 AM
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I have a buddy hot shot driver that bought 2012 F350 with the Powerstroke in it. He just cooked down 2 cylinders at 103,000 miles. He doesn't run a tuner either it is bone stock. Thank God he bought an extended warranty.
 


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