i wanted the front down,so l thought l would try to do the spring under the axle swap.
when l started the frame at the bumper was 15 1/2 in off the floor.l removed every 2nd leaf then l mocked the springs under the axle,set it on the floor and now the frame is 8 in off the floor.l really like it,but i have some hick-ups.

a couple of years back l didnt like the opening of the m68 fenders so l made some patch panels and closed them in to profile my tires.turned out pretty good i think.









for me that was a lot of work,was my first time doing this kind of stuff.
so now the drop.






l really like this,but as you can see the tires will not turn in the opening
so back to the old.lm so glad l didnt cut the old lip off the fender when l closed it in.







so the saga continues.so far l have not done anything that cant be put back if this doesnt work out,well l would have to close up that fender again l guess.

 

It's fun playing with that sheetmetal! From another sheetmetal beginner, looked pretty good! I use those Folger coffee tubs too!
Have fun!

 

So did you C notch the frame or raise your steering box up? Does the tie rod clear the springs? Pics please!

 

Roy, I've got a jag ifs on my F1. The bottom of the frame, where the bumper will attach, is 10 1/2" from the floor. Viewed from the side, the fender opening is about 1/2" above the top of the tire. I had it 1" lower, but I'd get an occaissional rub when hitting a bump in a turn, like entering a drive way. The entire truck is 4", approx, lowered from stock. I like the stance and it's got enough ground clearance not to be a PITA.

 

hey scott
yes the tie rod is a good inch above the spring.it is close enough to the axle that i dont think it will be a problem.
l have the frame marked out for a 2 1/2 in c notch and box plating,everything is closed for the holidays,i need some steal on head before i cut anything.plus lm having commitment issues.
oh the frist thing i did find was the oil pan touched the tie rod bar os l had to put a 2 1/2 in notch in the oil pan.that turn out pretty good.
l will need to raise the steering box to on top of the frame.my problem there is that is where they stamped the vin # for the thruck.not sure what to do for that,i dont want to cover it up.
l will get some pics of what l have mocked up so far.maybe you guys can help me figure out what to do with the box.

 

2 1/2" notch in the oil pan? What engine? Does the crank still turn? Will the oil drain back to the sump? If the crank has to spin thru oil laying in the pan, that will eat up gobs of HP and probably result in oil foaming and oil control problems. Raising the axle up that much will likely necessitate raising the steering box a like amount to return the drag link to parallel with the ground to avoid bump steer. How are you locating the axle on the springs? are you going to add a spring perch to the bottom of the axle to keep the axle from tilting when you hit a bump? IMHO There are a whole lot of better, easier, less complicated and safer ways to accomplish that same drop. I don't know of anyone actually driving that setup.

 

AX
the oil pan ill not be a problem,its the flat head and the oil pan steps down 4 times to the bottom of the pan,no oil will sit in the notch part and will drain down fine.






this last pic is where the steering box needs to go on top of the frame to correct the steering bump,my problem here is my vin is stamped right where the box needs to be.
this is just put together with crappy 3/8 u-bolts to see how it will work.IF l go forward with this l will get gr8 u-bolts and 3/8 -1/2 spring plates made with the holes put in the right places.

l have a link to the H.A.M.B. on this but i dont know how to put it on here.he did a land speed record with this set up,i dont think l will get the flatty up to that

 

Roy, as you know you will need a flat plate welded to the bottom of the axle with a centerbolt hole to keep the axle firmly in place.
As for the VIN, I would build a bracket around it, or leave a slot to see it. It will be under the box, but will still be there.
Also I would not remove any spring leaves as your axle is going to want to twist under braking.

 

Technical How I lowered a 1962 F-100 with an axle flip (1961-1964 I-Beam) - THE H.A.M.B.
this is the one on the H.A.M.B. that lm using to do this,as for easier ways maybe,but this is pretty straight forward and wont cost much.l live in the south west corner of ALBERTA and jag and cv front ends or just not easy to come by or if you do they are not so cheap.l think the hardest part of this flip is the steering box.l like Scotts idea for that l will check it out.
Scott,l did remove every 2nd spring,why do you think it would be different then any other for flex,i can put them back in easy enough.just wondering.

 

Wouldn't it be easier to achieve the stance your after by dropping the original straight axle rather than flipping, notching, relocating steering box, cutting the pan etc.

 

now where would the fun be then

again, it would cost way more to get SID to drop my axle when you look at shipping from Canada,Sweedway has a drop axle,but lve heard some say they were having problems with something being out of alinement on them.
as for the notch on the oil pan, l figured it would be a good test run for my new Lincoln welder.

 

When you raise the spindle centerline in relation to the springs, the axle wants to twist under braking. The wheel is turning and the axle is static......something has to give. Same applies to a dropped axle.
In the stock position, the axle is under much less torque. Stiffer springs will help control the twisting.

Pic of spring wrap



I'm not saying your setup won't work, just be aware of some potential problems. I'm interested in how this works out.

 

ok Scott,l tatal get what you mean now.l can put the springs back in just to avoid any possible problems with this.
plus i talked to a RCMP(canadain cop) last night and he said l could re-stamp my vin somewhere as long as it matches the one in the glove box.

l will keep you all updated.

 

does anyone have pics of the steering column with it taken apart?

i did the mock up for the steering box,to get it where i need it to sit for the drag link the wheel is about half way up in the windshield. what does this thing look like when it is apart,can i cut the tubs and weld them back at a shorter distance to bring the wheel back down to the dash.has anyone tried this or at lest had it apart for a look see.

i still have not do anything that cant be put back,so i didnt want to just cut the column and find out im screwed.this is the last thing i need before i pull the trigger for good on this mock up.......i think.

 

The column shaft is one piece all the way down to the worm gear in the steering box. It could possibly be shortened by disassembling it and cutting it, but would be tough to undo...