1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

Rear Frame Bracing - let me see what you have done?

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  #31  
Old 12-22-2013, 03:52 PM
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I see, the other pic was deceptive, plus there was another piece of steel in the other pic.
 
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Old 12-22-2013, 04:13 PM
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Originally Posted by ALBUQ F-1
Here's a useful paper, mostly Chapter 5 pages 31-36: http://www.keithwakeham.com/Files/ChassisDesign.pdf

He doesn't go into great detail, but the part on Ladder Frames with X-Bracing touches on the basic limitations of ladder frames: you can stiffen a section, but all that does is transfer the stresses to a weaker section. (see Wld427's post) The article's conclusion:

"... no “performance” vehicle should ever utilize a ladder frame. The only exception is that of large heavy vehicles that are specifically designed to go at slow speeds, and not to corner at significant speed, [but] hold very heavy loads or for towing. Essentially all the ladder frame is good for in today's world of automotive design is large trucks and transport trailer vehicles."

If you do some snooping on the 'net, you can find graphical computer analyses of frames under various load conditions. Even for high-performance vehicles it is pretty uniformly the case that the worst-case stresses are imposed on a frame (or unibody structure) when going up a curb at an angle, while turning, even at very low speeds. I saw one case where the stresses in that case were triple those of other operating conditions. That is the kind of stress that cracks frames. Since it is a much more common condition (turning into a driveway) than applying 1,000 HP with sticky tires pointed forward, I'd give that more consideration.

Seem like you can double the torsional rigidity with a simple X brace. Given that I am stuck with the frame I have. I think I am going to X brace and add some rear bracing. Should be interesting. No plans to road race or autocross the truck, but figure while I have the frame stripped down, seems like a reasonable thing to do.
 
  #33  
Old 12-22-2013, 05:45 PM
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I don't try to advise anyone about their truck frame but mine works very well and I did not want any flex with the suspension I have. Drives as good as any thing I have ever driven. But to each his own. New cross members and totally boxed makes for a very ridgid set up.IMG034_zps14c0e14a.jpg Photo by Larry48fi | Photobucket" target="_blank">http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/gg131/Larry48fi/IMG034_zps14c0e14a.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG034_zps14c0e14a.jpg"/><a href="IMG034_zps14c0e14a.jpg Photo by Larry48fi | Photobucket" target="_blank"><img src="http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/g...ps14c0e14a.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG034_zps14c0e14a.jpg"/></a>
 
  #34  
Old 12-22-2013, 05:54 PM
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mytbtruck- your images didn't come across. could be my computer. not sure
 
  #35  
Old 12-22-2013, 07:03 PM
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They dont work on mine either
 
  #36  
Old 12-23-2013, 09:14 AM
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fixt for you



 
  #37  
Old 12-23-2013, 05:07 PM
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Originally Posted by jrockdiddy
Here's what I did to the factory shock crossmember.



Here's my transmission dog bone.
It was smart of you to put the dog leg in the transmission mount tube. That makes it easy for you to take it out. Industrial Chassis did the same thing in the tube center cross member they did in my truck.
 
  #38  
Old 12-23-2013, 05:24 PM
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That's where I bought the dog bone and tubes. Garbz helped me install them.
 
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