Hey folks,
I got a 73 F250 and I was told the valve cover gasket needs to be replaced because I got some leaking and smoking.
I read up a bit and it looks like I should do the following:
1) buy cork gaskets
2) use a little bit of black silicon to adhere it to the cover, then put it in the manifold
3) make sure to scrape surfaces and use break/carb cleaner to cleanup

Am I missing anything? Feel free to treat me like a beginner who knows nothing….

 

Use weatherstrip adhesive to glue cork gasket to valve cover (after straightening out sheet metal with a hammer if necessary around bolt holes) add small dab of silicone at joint where cylinder head and intake meet, and snug down but do not over tighten valve cover.

Retorque after engine warms up (do not use gorilla torque…) and you should be good.

 

I'd go yo Rockauto and buy Fel-Pro cork gaskets.
I'd only put a thin coating of sealer, just enough to hold the gasket in place after cleaning it thoroughly and straightening the valve cover.

 

1) stay away from cork
2) NO silicone
3) clean it like you're going to eat off it
4) Make sure your PCV and breather is in good shape

 

What kind of problems have you had with cork?

 

Fragile and if overtorqued can split or wants to push out. (Installer error yes just less forgiving)

I have been always taught old school, noting wrong with cork. It absorbs oil, swells and seals. That was the only thing we used to have.

Cork works just fine. I'll take rubber vs cork when I can

My flepro rebuild gasket kit came with rubber valve cover gaskets. I have have them off a number of times and they still seal fine, never damaged, nor brittle. Cork has always torn on me. A given when removing something with cork I never plan to reuse. and I have replacements on hand when removing parts with cork.

Now just if I could find a 1 piece rubber oil pan gasket for my 351m/400 id pay 2-300 bucks for one but they don't exist anymore. (Think someone used to make em)

Just my .02¢ opinion. The question wasn't directed to my post..

 

Cork will leak over time, but it does seal better for a while.

If you don't want leaks buy the hard rubber gaskets and put TRS on both sides. you'll need a pry bar and hammer to get them off again but they will not leak.

 

Just got tired of changing it every year. These last way longer without problems.
For Ford FE valve cover gaskets Rubber with Steel Core 3/16" 352 360 390 406 427 | eBay
Another problem is if your crankcase is having a problem breathing it will spit oil out.

 

Not sure how many different combinations of gasket and sealant I used before i went nuclear on my valve covers. Ended up using an automotive glue recommended by my uncle who keeps an engine bay clean enough to eat off of. It was a permatex automotive sealant with a cork gasket, and yes its gonna suck to take off and clean but it was the only way I could ever get the damn things not to seep.

 

What ever you decide on as far as gasket material. Like already mentioned, 1st make sure the metal valve cover is not bent around the bolt holes. From the Po over tightening them. Take them off and flip them upside down, get a small metal straight edge. A 6" or 12" steel ruler works great, and check the lip for being straight and for having any cracks around the bolt holes. Hammer tap flat and install properly, and torque.

I have read 3-5 ft lbs and even 7 ft lbs. And even 10 ft lbs. Ford 352 360 390 406 427 428 V8 Engine Specs | Torque Specs - Cylinder Numbering - Firing Order - Distributor Rotation

A good read. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...ml#post8603718

 

Felpro make a cork gasket with a sandwiched stell shim. Stick it lightly to the valve covers. Ive had my set for two decades and they been off and on a few times. Never leaked. Don't overtighten.

 

Back when I worked on cars for a living rubber gaskets were my least favorite of the two. They got hard and leaked too.

Staite silicone was my least favorite but back then GM was having a huge issue with it valve covers leaking and ruinig those nice HEI plug wires.

Back in the day 3M weather adhesive was a popular gasket sealer too. Try scraping it off today.

How long do you think it takes for the cork to get hard enough that it starts to leak?? Same for rubber.

Cork has worked just fine for me for valve cover gaskets so I'll stick with them.

 

If you have difficulty deciding between cork or rubber, Mahle makes a cork-rubber gasket for some engines.
If bolt hole distortion is a problem due to over tightening try using spreaders.

 

Ok well have our preferences for what material. It really comes down to too much pressure is developed in the block to force the oil to escape. Breathers and a working PCV will help solve a lot of this.

 

I've never had that problem with any gasket.