It is an automatic. Ill do this test tomorrow. I hope.

 

True, but those stupid little LEDs are cheap easy to work with and have very low draw.

 

I sell LED bulbs on the side so I have plenty to try.

 

From what I've been reading on this forum the key to you're problem may be two words,, Pensacola Diesel

 

Oh? Care to elaborate? I am on my second IP from them. First one the FIPL broke on it.

 

Well, no update as of yet. I've not had much spare time this week. I'm hoping to get a minute this weekend. What will wiring this light indicate, anyway?

 

You splice in a wire to the wire which connects to the FSS; splice it in right near the FFS. Run the wire into the cab, hook it to an indicator light. Provide a ground or the 2nd terminal on the indicator light.

Then, whenever the key is on, the indicator light should glow. If the light goes out with the motor running, the motor will shut down because the FSS has lost power. The light is the best way to know, for sure, the that 12 volts to the FFS is, or is not, the problem.

It is common to a FSS to be "sticky" and not open when 12 v is applied; but, it is uncommon for a motor to shut off, while running, due to a bad FSS. Intermittent loss of 12v to the FSS while driving is not uncommon (which is what you are testing for with the light).

 

I have read several threads where people have had odd and assorted problems with Pensacola diesel some wouldn't even work at all and then you have the accessional guy who has good luck.

 

check that the engine has a good ground, between chassis and batt, or corrosion or broken wire, at FSS, check and clean fuse, and wiggle the key to see if ignition is worn out.

 

While possible it's very unlikely that it's a ground issue. Both the glow plugs and starter ground through the block direct to the batteries just like the IP, thus if the ground was even questionable it would show signs when trying to crank it first. And the block ground is the only thing that matters for the IP and thus the FSS, all the chassis grounds could be toast and the engine would still run.

 

I should be able to get some time today to check these things out. I'll report back with my findings.

 

Well, I came out about ten minutes ago and attempted to start the truck. I cranked it for about 10 seconds and it didn't start so I turned the key all the way off, then back to on, waited for the WTS light to go out, it went out, attempted to start the truck again and the starter clicked but that's all it did. Turned the key off, checked battery cables, pulled the positive off the passenger side battery, cleaned the terminal and the truck started no problems. The cable seems loose in the positive connector and the connector has to be super tight to make a connection. Now, I put an led on the FSS and it lit up the whole time until the idle went down after the cold start solenoid went back in. As soon as that happened the led went out and hasn't come back on since. I'm outside right now on my iPad typing this and the truck is running as I type this with the led off. I'm gonna clean the ground from the passenger side battery down to where it bolts to the block. Could my main battery harness need replaced?

 

"Battery harness"...you mean the battery cables? If you are getting a poor fit on the battery post you need to correct that one way or another. I would shim it for now. Cleaning both ends of all battery cables is time well spent.

LED is off and engine is running. Gee, something is amiss there. It was a 12v LED? Check for 12v at the LED with the engine running (or, the key on).

Roy

 

Yes I mean the main positive battery harness. The cables the connect the 2 batteries. Yes it was a 12 volt led. I'm going to test for 12 volts to it here in a second. In the mean time here is a video I just shot real quick showing the inconsistent power running through the battery terminal connector.

 

I have 0 volts at the FSS with the key on or truck running. I ran a jumper from power to the FSS and the FSS clicks that way but otherwise is not getting power.