We got sooooooo close to driving it this weekend. Well, Saturday, because we went skiing on Sunday. Haha Bleeding the brakes turned out to be a little more troublesome than expected so we did not get them bled. Shifter is in, air intake is in, it starts, runs and acts as it should. It had a tick when we first cranked it up but that went away after it ran a little while. Now that everything is in, we really need to get after engine cleaning!

Shifter mount and intake tube turned out fantastic.










Shifter mount is made from a section of the truck's frame that we cut out.

 

AS usual your making me look Bad. Great work.

 

Haha, thanks!

Quick vid of it running and Jake enjoying his exhaust system.

 

Cranked it up at lunch today trying to get a few heat cycles through the engine to make sure everything is ok and I just might need to find a way to hijack this truck from Jake. Haha. It sounds sooo dang good!

The alternator does not seem to be charging, so we will need to check that out this weekend. Otherwise, water temp is good, oil pressure is 65+ cold idle and 45 hot idle.

 

I noticed that the alternator was not charging and I suspected that I did not have the exciter wire properly connected. So last night I quickly looked at it and sure enough, there was no voltage on the exciter wire at the alternator with the key on. As I was looking at it, I noticed that the other end of the wire was actually sticking out of the loom. A quick continuity test verified it was the wire I needed. Then, I noticed a wire on the 1974 harness of the same color and stripe literally 2" away. Checked for voltage with the key on/off and sure enough, that was the wire I needed to connect to. Connected them and boom, 14.5v at the battery when running. Two harnesses from trucks built 22 years apart and the two wires I needed to connect ended up dang near on top of one another!

 

That's awesome!

It helps that the motors that came in both were very similar, and I'm glad you've got it running! Sounds great too!

 

Thanks! I find myself starting it just to listen to it run. lol

Now that it is in the truck and functional, we need to get out the simple green or engine brite and do some serious cleaning!

 

Can't wait to be at that point with my 4BTA Cummins re-power......not far now, just ran out of $$$$ to spend on it till I get back to work....been laid off all winter.......got a lot done on truck.......just outta bux right now.

 

Bled the brakes (which was not easy), and wrapped up some other small details and then we finally got to drive it!!

It runs and drives good!!
We have a shifting issue that I think might be rectified once we calibrate the speedometer. At least I hope that fixes it!

 

I looked through the section where you described the efi install, but didn't see any mention of installation troubles with the E40D.

Did you have to change anything to fit the transmission into the 70's cab or was there plenty of room?

 

The E4OD is a snug fit, but it fits nonetheless. We move the trans crossmember further back and drilled new mounting holes in the frame.

Bleeding the brakes was a total pain in the butt. We jacked with it most of the day on Saturday. Finally got a hard pedal. Messed with the shifter adjustment for a while to get it right. Checked the toe and it was toe'd in 3/16". Adjusted it a smooch and it was good to go.

Driving impression: This thing is a ball. The CV front end is really really nice. Steers good, rides good, stops good just an overall massive win. Motor runs good, very torquey and will vaporize a tire from a stop pretty easily. Steering wheel is a little off center, but not by much. Nothing leaked, broke or caught fire so we are feeling really good about it right now.

We calibrated the speedometer yesterday. It works perfect. I am sooooooo happy we were able to use the front ABS sensor to drive it. Very nice product and it is super duper user friendly.

Trans is still an issue. We can use manual 1 and 2, but I don't think we have any (or very limited) automatic functions in D. We have just been driving around in 1 & 2 powerglide style because with 3.25's and 30" tires, it'll run 45 mph in 2nd pretty easy. haha

 

The E4OD is electronically controlled - does it have the proper computer driving it? Make sure that the module is getting power, is properly grounded, and that the Speed sensor and Manual Lever Position sensor are both installed and functioning!

Also, random basic thought - did you check the fluid level with the motor running in Park & Neutral? Just putting ideas out there because it could seriously be a ton of different things!

 

Yes it is the proper PCM. It all came from a running, driving truck.

I believed the speedo was supposed to output an 8000 pulse per mile signal. However the info I read was incorrect. I contacted Autometer and they told me the speedo output ppm is merely 1/2 the input ppm. So with our input being around 38000 ppm, the output is 19000 ppm which is still way too high.

I found a neat device to calibrate speedometers that essentially takes a pulse signal and increases or decreases it by a user specified percentage. This will allow us to pull the raw signal from the ABS sensor, reduce it 21% or so percent to achieve a usable signal. Once that is done, we can move on to other aspects of why it may not be working properly.

 

The internet seems to agree that the E4OD should be seeing about 8000ppm from the speed sensor. If speedometer output is up at 19,000, then you need a 57.9% reduction in the PPM to get you down to 7999ppm, which is close enough! (58% reduction would put you at 7980, which is also probably close enough!). I would use the output from the Autometer speedometer (which you've said is half the total wheel pulse count) because it simplifies the whole wiring system and the number of electrical parts - you only need one front wheel ABS sensor, and that feeds the speedometer and the PCM.

If you want to reduce the raw 38,000PPM ABS signal down to 8,000 you need a reduction of 79% - and somehow, I doubt the calibration box will take it that far! No matter which way you do it, you may need to buy two of the boxes to get the reduction you need (or find a way to cludge a real Ford speed sensor into the mix).

The internet also seems to think that the Transmission PCM looks at a ton of stuff to determine the shift point - speed, engine RPM, throttle position, etc etc. My guess would be to just start with the speed sensor, and then figure out which other controls aren't playing nice.

 

That's the plan.

The box will adjust 1% to 99%, so either setup will work. Unfortunately, it has to ship from Australia! Yikes.

The first thing I am going to check is the MPLS. Seems to be the most common culprit of E4OD issues. Also need to connect the BOO switch to the PCM.