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1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Dentsides Ford Truck

The $500 F250

 
  #406  
Old 02-04-2019, 08:07 AM
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Made the mount out of metal and after a few tweaks, I have the turbo sitting where I think I want it. It is very heavy and it will need some additional bracing. I also tweaked the coil bracket to lay flatter and clear the throttle body better.




 
  #407  
Old 02-13-2019, 10:15 AM
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Picked up an AC delete pulley for $8. I installed it and the intake manifold.


I added a bracket that goes from the rear bracket and spans 2 exhaust studs. This really solidified the mount. I could probably stand on it now.

I also formed the pipe to fit in the rectangle turbo flange to transition to round pipe. I started welding it to the flange, but not surprisingly ran out of welding gas.

Fuel lines are also mocked up. looks like I will need about 3 more feet of hose to complete the fuel system.

Worked on the turbo flange today. Basically took a piece of 4" exhaust tubing, split it and the formed it into the flange with a ballpeen hammer and a 1/2" socket extension. Then I welded it in place.

Next, I formed the other end to an oval and inserted the other tubing and welded it. Took some hammering and squishing, but it turned out pretty nice for my first time. Certainly good enough for who it is for. Haha.

 
  #408  
Old 02-18-2019, 08:39 AM
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Made some more braided hoses. I just have one more to make and the fuel system will be plumbed. Every little bit is progress.


 
  #409  
Old 02-26-2019, 01:19 PM
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Fuel system is fully plumbed now. Just need to secure the lines to the frame in a few places.

Exhaust manifolds are soaking in Purple Power so they will be cleaner.

The oil supply line to the turbo is in place now too.

The "plan" (we know how well those turn out sometimes) is to finish the hot side to the turbo, install the Dominator and my 1 wire HEI distributor in order to break in the cam, because I *know* they work. Then go live with the efi.

Yesterday's project was drilling 2 more holes in the intake that I should have done before I put it on the engine.... These holes are for a water temp sensor and mechanical water temp gauge and will be tapped 3/8" NPT.


 
  #410  
Old 02-26-2019, 02:38 PM
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Originally Posted by JP3 View Post
The "plan" (we know how well those turn out sometimes) is to finish the hot side to the turbo, install the Dominator and my 1 wire HEI distributor in order to break in the cam, because I *know* they work. Then go live with the efi.
That is the best way to do it. With a one-shot deal like cam break-in, you want to know that it's going to start right up and run well. Alternate ways would be to put your new carb (if using one) on another engine to make sure it works like it's supposed to. Or Get your new carb and new ignition running on the engine before you pull it for rebuilding.
Too many potentially bad variables lurking in all of those brand new untested parts, to trust them on your brand new engine's break-in - especially nowadays when so many new parts are questionable or bad.

Another good way to go similar to that, is when you're going to restore a vehicle, get everything working including all of the electrical stuff, before you disassemble the vehicle. That way if something doesn't work upon reassembly, then you at least know when the problem began.
 
  #411  
Old 02-26-2019, 03:19 PM
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Yep, these are mostly all parts I have used in conjunction with one another in the past. If it was a roller cam, I wouldn't mess with the extra hassle, but it is a hyd flat tappet. We killed one during our little 302 project I believe in part due to ignition problems on first start.
 
  #412  
Old 02-27-2019, 03:26 PM
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Definitely spend the time to go over everything before you fire it up. I had a mild Comp Cam w/ lifters that died during break-in in my Jeep YJ. I did the installation by the book, having someone go over each and every item as I did it. We fired it up, and it lost oil pressure at the very end of the 20 minute run. Turns out that wiping lobes and wearing holes in the bottom of the lifter doesn't actually help break in!

Comp was totally awesome and spent a long time on the phone diagnosing what I did, and determined that everything had been done to the letter, before, during, and after. I sent them the cam & lifters, and they cross shipped a replacement to me. I spent the extra money to get the new cam nitrided just to be safe. Second break in went flawlessly, and it ran great until I sold it.
 
  #413  
Old 03-13-2019, 08:19 AM
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Took advantage of some free time last evening to build 98% of the hot side piping. I was beat. I must have crawled under that truck 500+ times.

Exhaust comes from driver's side under the bell housing to this junction. This blended pipe took me longer to make than most of the rest of it. Haha. I planned the routing to allow me to remove the converter bolts and starter without having to drop the exhaust. Trying to make it somewhat easy to work on.
This is the pipe that the passenger pipe blends into. It snakes up between the frame rail and motor mount to the 90 degree bend up towards the turbo. This pipe might get a V-band cut into it so I can actually remove it if ever necessary.




Turbo flange small dog leg and 90 degree bend. I know it is not bolted down, I just stuck it there for a pic. The wastegate will come straight off the vertical 90 degree bend.


This is all 3" tubing , we are dealing with a 9 liter engine after all. Overall, I am happy with how it fits and how it is routed. The pic makes the it look like it hangs low, but it is no lower than the CV crossmember.
 
  #414  
Old 03-13-2019, 12:12 PM
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Originally Posted by JP3 View Post
a 9 liter engine
Uhm.... wut? Lol.
 
  #415  
Old 03-13-2019, 01:44 PM
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552 cubic inches is 9.05L
 
  #416  
Old 03-14-2019, 09:22 AM
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Originally Posted by JP3 View Post
552 cubic inches is 9.05L
I must have really glanced over the 552 details. This is going to be one killer street machine!
 
  #417  
Old 03-15-2019, 09:45 AM
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Hot side it mostly finished. I still need to tweak it a little in a couple of places. I decided to just run the wastegate straight out for exhaust priority and because it was easier to make. Exhaust will just dump straight down to atmosphere between the sway bar and the steering rack.


 
 
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