The $500 F250
#392
#394
#397
Being the DIY guy I am, I went ahead and used JBWeld to seal up the bungs. I mixed it up, pulled out a bung, coated the bottom portion, slid it back in, twisted and wiggled it, then installed the set screw. Might have got a little much on them, but I'd rather it be too thick than too thin. Besides, I'm not out to win any beauty contests with this thing. When I checked on them this morning, it seems as if they are solidly fixed and sealed. I feel much better about these than the one's I did for the original Ranger big block project.
Next phase is to drill the injector feed holes in the blank fuel rails.
Next phase is to drill the injector feed holes in the blank fuel rails.
#399
Out of curiosity, how are you planning on holding the rails & injectors down to the manifold? Just curious, because this looks pretty good! I used JBWeld to secure the turbo oil return fittings to the oil pan in my old Mustang. My dad had the idea of using the heat gun to "flow" the JBWeld, though they have to be done one at a time that way. Gently heating up the epoxy will cause it to loosen up & flow evenly (or it can run - be careful!) around the bung/fitting.
#400
#401
#403
Fuel cell is mounted in the stock location and holes were cut in the bed for filler and return line access. Once the hitch is mounted, it will all but disappear under there.
Front dress will be the late model stuff. It's ugly, but it works. The DIS coil mount will need to be reconfigured to work with the mechanical water pump and accessory drive brackets though.
Front dress will be the late model stuff. It's ugly, but it works. The DIS coil mount will need to be reconfigured to work with the mechanical water pump and accessory drive brackets though.
#404
#405
Started thinking about the mount for the turbo. The cardboard is just a rough idea, but I think I have a pretty good idea of what I want to do. The flange needs to be at an angle to give the exhaust a straighter shot and to leave spark plug access, but if you put too much on there, that causes the turbo to sit waaaay out there. It will bolt in two places on the front for the majority of the load carrying and be stabilized by the back bracket tying into the engine side of the motor mount.