I've used the search feature but i just cant find what i'm looking for.

I have a 2011 F250 with factory upfitter switches. I bought KC slimlite long range lamps to install on my bull bar. I'm trying to figure if i can use the included wiring harness that came with the KC lights and somehow connect that to the upfitter switch. If you have wired these or similar lights to your switches, how did you wire it.

Thanks in advance for any input.

Here is the diagram that was included with the lights

 

The up fitters have their own relays, so you should just be able to hook the positive wire off the up fitter then ground the other. You'll have to figure the amperage of the lights so you know which up fitter to hook to, so are lower amp rated than others, right now I can't remember which are which.

 

Here, I found this, it tells you which is which. https://www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas...ml/Q117-R2.pdf

 

Thank you for that, that helps alot.. Sounds as if its easier just to cut out the included relay and connect hot to upfitter and ground the cold. The upfitters are basically "plug and play"

 

So I have the same exact lights on my truck. The upfitters supply 12 vdc. All you have to do is remove the switch that came with the lights and connect the green wire to the correct upfitter switch. I used the number 1 upfitter switch, and a generic wire that goes through the firewall. Then, connect the upfitter number 1 switch to the wire wire that goes through the firewall, and your done.

 

The up fitters already have the relay, you don't need to hook the one up that came with the lights.

 

Thanks bikerman, But what i'm still trying to figure out is, did you still use the relay that came with the lights or no. Just trying to get the install right the first time so i don't burn up the upfitters...

 

Thanks madsonp, you pre-answered my question..lol That's exactly what i needed to know..

 

I used the relay that came with the lights so all I would have to do is run one wire through the firewall. The one wire needed to activate the relay. Also an added benefit was that the one wire doesn't need a high amperage. Just 12vdc to trip the relay. So you can use the lowest rated upfitter switch to save the higher rated switches for other things.

 

I've just got a set of KC 69 series long range lights.
So if I understand this correctly I can cut the harness so I just have red and black wires directly from the lights, ground the black wire(s), tie the two reds together and hook them to a matching amperage upfitter switch wire. Correct?

 

Have you found the up fitter wires? They are butt spliced behind the fuse block. There is also a set of wires that pass through the fire wall. Just a matter of connecting the 2 harness in the cab and tie into the wire leaving the firewall under the master cylinder

 

I got the lights installed and everything works great. I took bikerman's advice on still using the relay that came with the lights. Everything on the KC harness was used minus the Brown and White wires which were only needed if using the included KC on/off switch. The green wire was used and connected to the run through firewall wires that connected to the upfitter switch. The engine compartment end of the run through wires were a pain in the *** to get to!!!

 

I hooked my Hella700ff up a little different. I wanted them to compliment my high beams on the back roads and at our ranch land. I wired the high beams to the switch leg of the kits relay and my number 1 upfitter switch that has 25 amps to the power leg. That way when I have the switch off the lights don't come on. With the switch on they only come on with the high beams. Did the entire install without drilling a single hole in the truck by using one of the passthrough wires although I'm thinking about moving the light relay and will have to drill a hole for that.

 

How about a photo of how they look.
Both daylight and night with them on. Please.

I am thinking of what I want to add later in life.

Sean