what could be preventing an automatic transmission from shifting and engaging into gear when put into drive (D) ?

I put it into Drive, and step on the gas, and nothing. Then after a few seconds it finally engages and starts to move. Its weird

I hope tranny doesn't need to be pulled

 

I dont know anything about our trannys but how is your fluid level? There are some heavy hitters that know alot about these trannys and im sure they will chime in.

 

How old is the tranny fluid? Ditto checking the level. Is it below freezing when this happens? Is humidity usually high in your area? If the fluid has been in there for years, I would start by changing it.

 

Full tranny service was done. Dropped the pan, cleaned it out, new filter and new fluid. He said the fluid did not seem burned or anything either, and seemed in good condition

 

If you drop it in low or first gear and it moves I say it is a pressure feed bolt that came loose. I bought a nice F350 99 cheap because it was slow to engage in drive and as oil got warm it would not move at all. The pressure feed bolts are above the valve bodies but you can drop the valve bodies and solenoid pack to get too them. I had 2 of the 3 ready to fall out. I re torqued to specs (10 ft lbs) and re installed and drove like new
pics here

 

If he just drained and replaced what was in the pan, that's not considered a 'full tranny service'. You didn't get all of the old fluid out. So, I would check your fluid level, as mentioned above. Make sure it's up to full operating temperature, and with it running in Park on level ground, check the tranny dipstick to make sure it's within the operating range. I would confirm this before looking into anything else.

 

excavator,

so yesterday before I went to visit the mechanic, as I was pulling out of a parking lot to head on up the road, my tranny started "slipping" badly...!!! and the truck would barely move forward or get up over 10mph... I was beside myself as this was the first time this happened like this, and I thought the tranny was toast. But after checking to see if the truck would go fine shifting from 1st to 2nd and then into Drive, I actually saw your post, so I brought the truck to a buddy I know who works on and has a lot of Powerstrokes (his family owns a landscaping company and he fixes and maintains the trucks) he does almost everything to Powerstrokes.

When I got to his shop I told him I wanted to do this. He told me maybe we should first talk to a really reputable transmission mechanic he knows who can diagnose almost anything in these trannies with almost pin-point accuracy, but the guy was already gone for the weekend. My gut and instincts however told me your idea was the way to go and I just didnt want to wait, so I convinced him and we pulled the transmission pan, valve-body, solenoid, etc... per your suggestion!!! to check the three pressure feed bolts. Well two of the three were loose! One quite loose!! And when we went to reinstall it all, ***** all in the right places, etc.. he checked to see if all the "springs" seemed to be functioning properly inside the valve-bodies that were off... A BROKEN SPRING in the valve-body too!! It was functioning a little, but was broken in half... It was a spring about 4-5" long and about the diameter of a quarter. It was broken in half yet still "springing" a little... however, the aluminum "valve" stopper end on it, which accepts the clip which holds it all in place, was worn and stuck and ****-eyed...wouldn't quite slide through there properly. The valve was basically screwed up! So that ended the day/night right there! fastened the pan back up for the weekend and had to take the train home!..

He is going to order a "shift kit" for it on Monday and re-install, and then hope that we fixed all my tranny woes!!!

 

Greenstar, if 2 of the bolts were loose as was mine that was the problem plus you had broken spring. I can only imagine how many trans were fully rebuilt for over 3 grand when 2 bolts were the only problem

 

I bought this truck for 4 grand 3 months ago because the trans was slipping in drive and the 2 bolts were only cause.

 

Did you just tighten the feed bolts, or replace them? The new bolts come with a dry form of thread locker/sealant applied to the threads. I would recommend to anyone, reusing the bolts, to clean & dry the threads (both the bolt and center support) and, at least, apply some blue Loctite before torqueing. This will aid in sealing and help prevent them from loosening again. Tightening loose feed bolts may cure the problem at hand, but is not a solution to the root problem which causes them to loosen in the first place. Any damage to the clutch packs due to slippage, or wear on center support faces that cause movement, will not be reversed by simply tightening the bolts.

 

mueckster
My plans were to remove the trans and ship it to BTS as he did my last trans in my OBS that is my black truck I pull the fiver with. I spoke to Brian about the torque converter MARBLE rattle noise this green truck has and about the not engaging in gear when oil is hot. Him and few others stated to check the feed bolts. To answer your question, I just re torqued them and hoped for best. The oil pan was spotless and oil was clean. Very little fine stuff on magnet. I consulted Brian from BTS. He suggested I swap out the converter with a better one and run trans to get the rest of the life out of it being that it has 150000 miles. I might do just that but the converter just rattles too much for my ears to not replace it. So I will replace the converter and front seal when warmer weather is hear.
My plans are to go through rest of truck before next RV season and monut the fifth wheel and get it ready. I also found the FPR was bad as the fuel heater. At idle the fuel pressure was 21. Now it is 65 at idle as it should be. I also had to remove the 4 inch lift blocks on rear axle and install 2 inch for level truck hooked up to RV

 

Shift kit ? What brand? Hopefully Trans Tec or Sonnax parts and not Superior. To me it sounds more like an accumulator valve to me. But he is the one who knows where the spring went I don't. I think from what you have said it sounds like a accumulator valve & spring and feed bolts.
First of all GREAT find on the E99 DRW ! Now I am guessing E99 by the badges on the fender. E99's had more issues than the other years with t.c. "MARBLES" I think that says alot about Brian/ BTS to guide you in the right direction instead of just trying to sell you a trans. And of course I agree with him on the t.c. but if you are going to do the t.c. I would also say change the pump bushing and pump seal at that time too. Trust me on this. Now I won't put a high dollar t.c. in a used trans I would just put a standard 3 disc billet cover converter t.c. in. There are some 3 disc billet cover converter t.c. that can be had for around $400 shipped you can use to get you by to the end of that tranny's life. Because if you use a high $$ t.c. when the tranny goes out the t.c. won't be no good and it would need to be rebuilt along with the trans. And whatever you do "Don't use a stock replacement." So you need help finding a cheap billet t.c. I'll post a link or 2 for you.

Now here is a photo of what causes the " MARBLES" in your t.c. It is the t.c. cover splines
By the way can you PLEASE edit your post with photos by putting the one photo below the other instead of next to it. I think then the page lay out on this tread will be easier to read. Maybe that ain't the issue but this treads page lay out sucks!

 

Badog yes it is e99 and i would sure like a link or 2 on replacement converter.
The pic of the feed bolts is causing the wide screen

 

Got yea on the photo thing . No biggie

Now as far as t.c. goes it would help if I know where you live since shipping will make a differents. Now I have heard good things about these guys and in the link if you page down to the 4R100 TowMaster $348 which actually I would NOT use for towing but would be fine for light towing or daily driving. But for towing I would use 4r100 Triple Clutch $435 Ford Torque Converters Phoenix by Roadrunner Converters Arizona 602-437-2301

Now here is WIT and they are who tranny shops go to for parts. https://www.wittrans.com/Schematic.a...ion=E4OD/4R100 and if you call
Pat (woman) ext: 2156 tell my name & forum and I promise she will give you a great price and might even have a warehouse near you. She saved me alot of money doing my trans

Hope this helps and seriously I would also do at least the pump seal and doing that and the pump bushing is recommended with new t.c. Also check input shaft very closely. Hopefully Roland will know what the pump seal part # was. The right pump seal is very important.

 

thanks a ton badog. I am in Central New Jersey zip 08859
I do plan on towing my 30 foot fiver with this truck as it has 4:10 gears and rides so much nicer than my OBS with dana 60