Both of the bolts holding on my water outlet housing just broke. I do have an extraction tool, but gaining the proper access to use it looks difficult. I wanted to see if anyone on this forum has ever had to extract these bolts before. If you did then what did you have to remove to get clearance? It looks like I will have to remove the water pump and the pulley next to the alternator. Do I have to pull the front cover to get to the lower bolt for the water outlet housing?

1994 5.0 RWD

 

Well..... what you listed will have to be done to drill out that lovely bolt. Also remove the radiator so it won't get munged up too(gives alot more working room). If you have working AC system place cardboard against the condenser so it won't get munged up too.

While your that far into the front cover, its best time to check/replace the timing set before it eats a cam sprocket.

 

And use never-seize when you go back together.

 

Use PST on bolts going into the water jacket.
It will not allow corrosion to form in the first place and the breakaway torque is a lot less than most other thread locking compounds.

1158514 is specially formulated for these applications.

 

What is PST?

 

Loctite Pipe Sealant with Teflon.
There are a number of formulations.
This one is for head bolts and fasteners going into the water jacket.

Others are for tapered threads , oxygen, high temperatures etc....

 

Good to know. I'll add that to the cabinet.

 

That is some great information. Thank you all! I got a new water pump gasket and some new torx bits for the pulley next to the alternator. I managed to remove the water pump, but I am having trouble getting my Grabit extractor to cut this bolt. It was dark, so I'm going to try again in the morning. Is there an extraction tool that would work better for this job? Tomorrow I will pull the radiator. I was trying to avoid it, but I need that space to get my power drill in there.

 

I like Grabbit's, have a full set and a couple of extras.
If the bolt seems too hard you might try a cobalt or carbide drill bit to make the hole for the extractor to work in,

Sure glad my 460's T-stat housing is up on top.

 

These extractors look like they will work better. The longer length and narrower shaft will give me some needed clearance to get a straight shot on the lower bolt without removing the front cover.

Titan Extractor Set

 

Comes with left twist drills too!
Be careful not to snap them.

Wish someone would make the square style extractors with a 1/4" hex shank so I could use my little impact driver.

 

Is the bolt broke flush to the engine? If it sticks out enough, a pair of vice grips(GOOD KIND) may wiggle those free after some soaking with PB blaster.

I got lucky few years ago when I had to change out the water housing on a 302 . The bottom bolt twisted at the head, vice grips got it out after soaking and wiggling back and forth.

 

A torch helps, too.

 

Well, if I can I like to just weld a nut right back to anything left of the shank...
Sounds to me like Sleepr doesn't have much room to work in there.

 

The lower bolt has one thread showing. The upper bolt is broken inside the manifold about 1/8". Heat would help, but I'm not comfortable with that in such a tight area. I put some PB Blaster on it earlier today.