So, I would like to know the specifications on both models especially for the year 1959. Towing capability, bed weight capacity, bed length, engine, GVWR etc etc.
Don't ask why, it's a long story, and it involves work....

Anyone know what CDL I need for these trucks? I think it's a class B, but it don't know if that's a federal or state thing.

 

back then i believe that the F500 would have been the next step up from the F350......an F350 would have had maybe a 10,000 lb gvwr maximum.......id have to guess that an f500 would be 12-15K gvwr, and an f600 possibly 20k or under max......my class C Oregon drivers license allows me to drive a single vehicle up to 26K gvw.......now as far as what the Feds might want, ive got NO idea

 

Capacities and GVWRs would vary by truck. There should be a warranty/data plate on the door or in the glove box (I can't recall) that give those numbers.

Different axles were available with different ratings.

Neither the 500 or 600 would go over 26,000 lbs, the cut off for CDL. No air brakes either, afaik, which may require some licensing endorsement or test depending on state. (CDL and 26,000 are Federal and all states, not sure about air brakes, check your DMV, but then you won't have air brakes...)

Towing capability would depend on other factors.

Bed weight capability would depend on axle ratings, wheelbase, and tare weight of the truck.

Bed length would depend on wheelbase and what was put on the truck.
(my dad's '58 had a 14'. A 10, 12 or even a 16 would have worked, depending on hoist and planned use)

Engines: 262 OHV six, 272 or 292 Y-block. The 292 would have come in a couple of flavors, 2bb, 4bbl, and heavy or standard duty iirc.

Trans: T98 4 speed, possibly a NP or Clark 5 speed.

Rear axle: Single or dual speed in a few different ratios.

Wheels: Could be widowmaker Firestones, could be safer split ring type. Late model tubeless if you get lucky.

 

So, I'm gonna go with check and see what the DMV has to say about the CDL requirements are.

Thanks for the info gents.

By the way, does the 4+2 work like this video shows?

 

CDL is 26,001 and up in all states.

Air brake, bus and other "special" vehicles is what you might worry about, but it would be very unusual to find air brakes on an F600.

The 4 & 2 does not work like that.

You have a 4 speed trans, and a two speed axle. You can use "Hi" in the axle as a 5th gear, or you can split gears. You can not (even though some people do and get away with it) downshift the rear axle like a transmission.

More than you ever wanted to know, but all that you must know about the 2 speed is in post 5, including Eaton videos:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-problems.html

 

i watched the videos and it confused somewhat.

So, correct me if I'm wrong but: to work the axle & tranny it works like this: 1st gear, button down, button up, when that reaches a certain speed shift to 2nd and push button down?

For the button: from low to high, pull button up, lift off accelerator until it engages high gear, then push in on accelerator as usual?

 

Air brakes NEVER require a CDL.

Straight trucks over 26k GVWR require a class B CDL.

Tow enough trailer and it could need a CDL class A.

Or haul hazmat and it could need at least a CDL class C with endorsement.

 

I parted out a 59 F500 that had air brakes, not really the question here but thought I would throw that in the mix.

 

how much trailer weight are we talking? this isn't for work use, I used work loosely here sorry for that, its personal use, work around my grandparents and uncles property, hauling firewood back and forth etc etc.

no hazmat stuff, besides the use stated above it will be used for my hobby, metalworking.

 

Start at about 8:27 on the first video. It looks like you've got the upshift ok, lift the button, lift the throttle, wait for the shift, back on the gas.

You do not have to use the two speed to split gears. Until you get used to it, I would just use it as an extra gear. The downshifts are trickier, but those are covered as well. Note you do not downshift the axle like a transmission--you don't use it to slow down the truck. Shift to 3rd for that, and get to know your brakes & their very serious limitations also.

 

I'm going to guess by your last sentence, the brakes weren't that good, perhaps problematic?

now, i have been taught to use the tranny to slow the vehicle down in a manual to ease off the brakes, as for the axle, i can understand that mistake, but i can't see it doing any good.

So to split downshift and axle downshift: (I.E. 4th to 3rd), 4th in high: press button down, left off accelerator, press accelerator, downshift: Lift button, depress clutch, shift, left off clutch, press accelerator?

So that will even under load, will this slow the truck? Or will I annihilate the tranny and axle?

Now, does that apply for say holding the truck back on a downhill? Choose gear and range then go? I know for my f250 it will hold me back on a hill by downshifting to the needed/desired gear.

 

For slowing down, just downshift the transmission. Never downshift the axle going down hill!!!

IMO, only use the split downshift when you are under load, such as going UP a hill and having to shift to a lower gear.

If the axle hangs up going downhill, you will have no engine braking as you will be "freewheeling".

Re engagement can be brutal if you hang up the axle. BANG is not a good result.

Since this is a "new to you" truck, you should at least look at the brakes. These are fairly large drum brakes, and they are subject to some issues due to age. First is leaking wheel cylinders. These will lead to a wheel lockup, then loss of brakes as you lose enough fluid. Linings and drum thickness are important as well, and should be checked.

These brakes will stop a fully loaded truck OK, but distances will be looong. They also fade, so watch your downhill speed and stay out of high range in the axle to begin with when you crest a hill.

 

On the CDL, a trailer over 10,000 lbs GVW will put you in Class A CDL territory if it is used for commercial purposes. No matter what the GVW of the truck. For other purposes, check with your state.

On the 2 speed rear, unless you love to shift, you can leave the rear in hi when you are unloaded, or lightly loaded. With a load, start out in lo, shift the transmission normally, then when up to speed in 4th, go to hi. If you come to a grade and need more oomph, drop the rear to lo while in 4th. Never shift the rear while going downhill! A missed shift can result in freewheeling. Pick the range you want before you start downhill.

You can use the rear to split the gears to get best performance going up grades with a load. I also find that when you are off road, or doing alot of low speed manuvering it is best to stay in lo.

 

No it doesn't.

Not until the CGVWR exceeds 26k.

 

i will have to go through the entire truck anyhow, so ill definitely pay extra attention to the brakes. is there anything i can do to increase the brakes ability to stop the truck?

so, if im not under load, i can leave it in high range the entire time? and just shift normally? but i do have the correct idea for split downshifting?