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Suspension rebuild 2000 F-150 4x4

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Old 12-06-2013, 08:56 AM
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Suspension rebuild 2000 F-150 4x4

I have been a lurker here for quite a few years, this is my first post I think. I've scoured the site for the answer to my questions and am posting for a last resort. I have a 2000 F-150 4x4 offroad package, 5.4 triton, extended cab. I am in the market to do a complete suspension rebuild. Kits and packages are way cheaper than individual components. I need some advise on what to buy. I'm looking in the neighborhood of $1000 for bushings, ball joints, tie rod ends, pitman and idler arms, shocks, ect... I'm trying to do this all at once, get it aligned, and not worry about it for years to come. Can anybody recommend a kit that encompasses all of this or most of it? Also advise on commonly overlooked items, if I'm going overboard, or if I'm missing something would be helpful. Here's the best I've found:

Moog-PackageDeal062 Front End Steering Pack Made By MOOG

Prothane 62036 - Total Kit. Prothane 6-2036-BL
 
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Old 12-06-2013, 09:35 AM
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Planning aheadd and changing out several components at the same time can save you time in the long run, but more money up front. I like the prevertative maintenance, but you have to know what fails. I had one truck with 250K miles and now have onen with 120K miles. Dont know what you have. I never had a tie rod ball joint fail on either truck. This is my order of failure.

Lower Ball joints 110K miles
Sway bar anchor bolt/link 110K
Upper ball joints 150K
tie rod center anchor bushing wear 160K
front wheel bearing/ hubs 160K
lower ball joint 230K
sway bar anchor bolts 230K

I would not worry about the sway bar bushings and tie rod ends unless you see abnormal wear. Lower ball joints, upper ball joints, and sway bar anchors are the main thing. The center tie rod is anchored to the frame under the radiator with an arm and fixed bracket. I had the bushing wear inside and allow "movement" of the tie rod without tire movement. I just flipped the bushing over and ran for another 100K miles.. but that might be an area of concern also.
 
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Old 12-06-2013, 09:41 AM
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I should say that MOOG ball joints are the only way to go,

I also changed out factory shocks at 160K miles on my first truck and 110K miles on the second. I guess the life varies by where you drive. Second truck actually had one front shock fail internal and cause stability problems.. I bought Gabrial (some heavy duty oversize bore type) for about $40. each.
 
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Old 12-06-2013, 02:34 PM
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Thanks for the reply, definitely sticking MOOG! I think I'm going to go with those packages, now I have to decide on shocks. I'd like to hear from those who tried the Bilsteins leveling shocks. I need about an 1.5" in the front.
 
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