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lets play "whats this part do???" ... my fav game

  #1  
Old 12-01-2013, 10:21 PM
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lets play "whats this part do???" ... my fav game

So I got this 302 out of my truck today. my harbor freight hoist wouldn't come close to reaching it so I got a piece of 1/4 wall square tube and broke out my little stick hobby welder to make this "Boom Beast" works great and lifted it plenty high enough to get it out.

next question. that little thing that attaches to the intake just behind the throttle body ... what does it do? i only ask because the 351 intake I got doesn't have a place for it to go into like the 302. it has the place for it to attach on the upper intake but not the lower. i guess it would be pulling vacuum but for what???? pic below.





lets play who dosnt know how a auto trans works and that a torque converter is filled with red fluid. IM IN. guess i will need to put some more back into it lol. poor driveway.




what the heck does this do








]
 
  #2  
Old 12-01-2013, 10:27 PM
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EGR valve .
 
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Old 12-01-2013, 10:27 PM
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That is your EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) valve. On the 351 it runs to the passenger side exhaust manifold, not the intake manifold. You will have to find the tube that runs to the exhaust manifold.
 
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Old 12-01-2013, 10:40 PM
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If you leave this out/unhook it, will everything still work OK? Other than check engine light, I mean.
 
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Old 12-01-2013, 10:52 PM
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Originally Posted by eakermeld View Post
If you leave this out/unhook it, will everything still work OK? Other than check engine light, I mean.
I hope so. My headers dont have an egr port. In got a rv cam, 9.5:1 compression, and will get a custom tune ecu. I dont think i will need it but if anyone knows otherwise let me know ... And global warming save the spotted owl hug a tree crap isnt a good enough reason. This truck MIGHT do 2000 miles a year.
 
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Old 12-01-2013, 11:32 PM
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If you have the EGR function tuned out of the EEC, you can do away with it. You will have to find a block off plate for the intake plenum though.
 
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Old 12-02-2013, 10:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Evan_P View Post
If you have the EGR function tuned out of the EEC, you can do away with it. You will have to find a block off plate for the intake plenum though.
I don't think I can tune it out on my 89. What now?
 
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Old 12-03-2013, 12:26 AM
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Originally Posted by eakermeld View Post
I don't think I can tune it out on my 89. What now?
For the truck to run properly, the system needs to be retained. If you have removed it, I would advise putting it back on.
 
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Old 12-03-2013, 03:14 AM
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Originally Posted by eakermeld View Post
If you leave this out/unhook it, will everything still work OK? Other than check engine light, I mean.
I left mine disconnected on my truck, and it idled VERY high at 2kRPM! It is not something you should leave off unless you block it off. I ended up getting a piece of metal and welding a cap on the hose that leads to the manifolds. Made a HUGE difference and my truck runs much smoother and cleaner. I will post a vid of it running in my build thread (link in my sig)
 
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Old 12-03-2013, 09:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Evan_P View Post
For the truck to run properly, the system needs to be retained. If you have removed it, I would advise putting it back on.
Mine is still on. I can unhook the vacuum line and cap it off and unplug it and it doesn't do anything different. Cold starts just fine. I don't understand what its purpose is.
 
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Old 12-03-2013, 09:08 PM
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Originally Posted by eakermeld View Post
Mine is still on. I can unhook the vacuum line and cap it off and unplug it and it doesn't do anything different. Cold starts just fine. I don't understand what its purpose is.
I said that wrong! I can unhook vacuum line and cap IT off, unplug the electrical connector, and it does nothing different. Runs fine. No light or nothing. I don't understand what its purpose is.
 
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Old 12-04-2013, 09:04 AM
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If it can't be tuned out of the EEC you can change it to a different one. As long as it doesn't have an e4od trans that is pretty easy to come by. You can basically use any ford v8 ecm but most go for a mustang due to the more aggressive stock tune and more capabilities. But if you do have an e4od you have to use one from another e4od truck or piggy back a trans controller which is what a lot of people do for a MAF conversion since ECMs are pretty hard to come by. If that is not in your budget you can buy a plug in delete. They basically tell the ecm that it is connected and functioning properly. Apparently RJM is closed down for an unknown reason but I did find one on eBay for 25 bucks I am waiting to see if works well. Will let you know when it comes in and can test it. The last option which is the cheapest but also the most difficult is to cut the connector off and put a resistor in place of it. I can't recall the exact spec on doing that bit I'm sure it is on here somewhere.
 
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Old 12-04-2013, 10:00 AM
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If you do use the plug in delete do you still have to pull the valve off and cap everything? I've looked into this pretty deep but still haven't figured it all out
 
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Old 12-04-2013, 01:59 PM
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You need to block the holes off on the manifold if you are going to do the delete. What you can do is put a piece of sheet metal between the valve and the manifold or you can remove it completely by making a block off plate for the intake and plug the port in the exhaust. Some people also remove the crossover pipe on the back of the heads but it isn't necessary.
 
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Old 12-04-2013, 10:35 PM
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Originally Posted by coxthecrazy View Post
If it can't be tuned out of the EEC you can change it to a different one. As long as it doesn't have an e4od trans that is pretty easy to come by. You can basically use any ford v8 ecm but most go for a mustang due to the more aggressive stock tune and more capabilities. But if you do have an e4od you have to use one from another e4od truck or piggy back a trans controller which is what a lot of people do for a MAF conversion since ECMs are pretty hard to come by. If that is not in your budget you can buy a plug in delete. They basically tell the ecm that it is connected and functioning properly. Apparently RJM is closed down for an unknown reason but I did find one on eBay for 25 bucks I am waiting to see if works well. Will let you know when it comes in and can test it. The last option which is the cheapest but also the most difficult is to cut the connector off and put a resistor in place of it. I can't recall the exact spec on doing that bit I'm sure it is on here somewhere.
This in on the 89 and it has a C6 so that is good. So just plug-n-play on a stang ECM? Surely it can't be THAT easy, can it? I would never be so lucky!
 

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