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Battery light just came on

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Old 11-30-2013, 04:30 PM
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Battery light just came on

Hey there fellow ford people My battery light just came on in my truck. Probably the alternator or battery correct? just cleaned the posts and connections. recently They look clean and are tight. This just came on today and my gauge is toward the discharge side just before the red marks any Idea guys? let me Know. Thanks scrobbie
 
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Old 11-30-2013, 04:55 PM
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Hello scrobbie and good evening.

The battery should put out 12 Volts when the engine is off and at least 14.2 Volts when the engine is running. You may want to pull the caps if applicable and check the electrolyte levels. I was taught to use distilled water only if you need to add some.

This is about all that I know so wait until some other members chime in as they will know more.

Boon
 
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Old 11-30-2013, 05:02 PM
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Hey boon unfortunately mine is maitenance free brother, the volts are at 11.93 with it running it was at 12.93 with it off
 
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Old 11-30-2013, 05:06 PM
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11.9 volts running ? Alternator is not charging . Voltage goes up with truck not running? ... Battery is likely good .
 
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Old 11-30-2013, 06:27 PM
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That Is kinda what i figured Have to get a new one teusday when I get paid and there not exactly cheap either Thanks Guys Scrobbie.
 
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Old 11-30-2013, 06:31 PM
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Check your wiring to the alternator also ! I do believe yours is prone to wiring issues , burnt plugs , etc . Best of luck ! Let us know how it turns out please .
 
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Old 11-30-2013, 06:33 PM
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Oh!! Try a Pick N pull or other salvage yard . You can save some $$$ if you are doing the work !
 
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Old 11-30-2013, 06:34 PM
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Depending on the alternator problem they can be fixed. I managed to keep my original 95 amp unit by routinely replacing the connector and keeping up with brush replacement for 350,000 miles. Every 100,000 I pull mine and at least replace the brushes. That and the connector are the most common failures. The only reason I didn't put it back on my rebuilt engine was I upgraded to the 130AMP unit.
 
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Old 11-30-2013, 07:15 PM
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Originally Posted by scrobbie
Hey boon unfortunately mine is maitenance free brother, the volts are at 11.93 with it running it was at 12.93 with it off
Hey scrobbie.

Even some of the "maintenance free" batteries the caps can be removed. If you can remove them check the electrolyte levels. If the liquid is below the internal plates most times it is toast. You can get a cheap tester from O'Reilly which has ***** inside a tube and this will tell you if you have a bad cell(s).

You have better help from the other members so just put it all together.

Good luck.

Boon
 
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Old 11-30-2013, 07:39 PM
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Check the b+ wires and use the alt case as a ground and see if it's charging.
 
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Old 11-30-2013, 09:38 PM
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Hey guys thanks for all the input I also just thought I would also throw this out there to I drove the truck a bit ago and when I first started it the light was off i drove to the smoke shop, to get me some cigs. Which is about a half mile away. I shut it off for about a minute, went inside came back out started it and the light was back on. Does this help anybody? This is the first time the light has come on since ive had it. 3 yrs september. Thanks again guys.
 
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Old 11-30-2013, 10:03 PM
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As suggested do a full field test.

Look at the back of the alternator, the voltage regulator there will be a screws one with arrow pointing at it stating "GROUND HERE TO TEST".

With the motor at an idle and a meter on red output wire (or watch your dash gauge), jumper ground to that screw. If the alt puts out max output with that screw grounded the voltage regulator is bad, if no change it does not increase output the alternator itself is toast.

Only jumper for a moment or so don't leave it on there, if its the VR you can replace it alt in place.

Sounds like the Voltage regulator, its pretty common the springs rust out and or brushes get hung up in their guideways no longer making contact with the armature, one of the two for example just can't reach it anymore or to lightly to make a difference.

To install new one or reinstall repaired VR need to use pin or feeler gauge to hold brushes in until back in place on the alternator, then slide out pin/feeler gauge (Might not be all that clear now no but will be when actually need to do it!).
 
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Old 11-30-2013, 10:48 PM
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Thanks danr1 I will try that as soon as i can and to all others have replied if I need any further assistance I sure will ask Thanks again folks.
 
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Old 11-30-2013, 11:53 PM
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I had my truck's battery light come on a couple of weeks ago and since then I've been trying to fix whatever electrical components seem like they had a hard life. I took my alternator to a local shop and they told me it was no good. As a reference it cost $120 for a rebuild and they are warrantying for 1 year. Hopefully you have have access to a similar shop if needed.
 
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Old 12-01-2013, 12:01 AM
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Originally Posted by mefast
I had my truck's battery light come on a couple of weeks ago and since then I've been trying to fix whatever electrical components seem like they had a hard life. I took my alternator to a local shop and they told me it was no good. As a reference it cost $120 for a rebuild and they are warrantying for 1 year. Hopefully you have have access to a similar shop if needed.
A bit high for a rebuild in my parts .... But? May be cheaper in your market than a replacement ! A rebuild around here runs $40 or so ...But only 30-60 day warranty ...
 


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