E-Fuel Mod and Bigger Rear Tank
#1
E-Fuel Mod and Bigger Rear Tank
Have a '97 crew cab with 8 ft bed. Looking to change out to E-Fuel and do away with mechanical pump and fuel bowl assembly as well as change the rear tank to a bigger tank. I have looked at the sticky material which is very helpful. Couple of questions for all the experts who have done this:
1. What tank do you think is the best for the rear and capacity? Metal vs some sort of plastic tank?
2. What did you do with your spare tire? (have a slide-in camper in bed so can't toss the spare tire in the bed)
3. What brand pump and regulator do you prefer? (will buy 2 pumps to have a spare on-hand) Is the regulator required to supply the needed pressure/tweak the pressure?
4. Is it worth bypassing the selector valve and discarding the front tank or should i keep it as a back-up?
I know that is a lot of questions but the replacement mechanical pump only lasted 2 years and left me stranded. Replacing it in a remote place was cheaper doing it myself and brining my buddy to help than a very expensive tow with that slide-in on the back. Not wanting to have to go through that again even though the mechanical pump is only 2 days old now. Also looking to not have as many fail points/leak points. With the selector valve and multiple fuel lines, I'm curious as to what the consensus is considering "bad fuel" is something that is always a possibility.
Thanks much guys - this site has saved me a lot of headache and $ - that mechanical pump is pretty difficult to replace but we got it done with everyone's help on here
1. What tank do you think is the best for the rear and capacity? Metal vs some sort of plastic tank?
2. What did you do with your spare tire? (have a slide-in camper in bed so can't toss the spare tire in the bed)
3. What brand pump and regulator do you prefer? (will buy 2 pumps to have a spare on-hand) Is the regulator required to supply the needed pressure/tweak the pressure?
4. Is it worth bypassing the selector valve and discarding the front tank or should i keep it as a back-up?
I know that is a lot of questions but the replacement mechanical pump only lasted 2 years and left me stranded. Replacing it in a remote place was cheaper doing it myself and brining my buddy to help than a very expensive tow with that slide-in on the back. Not wanting to have to go through that again even though the mechanical pump is only 2 days old now. Also looking to not have as many fail points/leak points. With the selector valve and multiple fuel lines, I'm curious as to what the consensus is considering "bad fuel" is something that is always a possibility.
Thanks much guys - this site has saved me a lot of headache and $ - that mechanical pump is pretty difficult to replace but we got it done with everyone's help on here
#2
1. What tank do you think is the best for the rear and capacity? Metal vs some sort of plastic tank?
2. What did you do with your spare tire? (have a slide-in camper in bed so can't toss the spare tire in the bed)
3. What brand pump and regulator do you prefer? (will buy 2 pumps to have a spare on-hand) Is the regulator required to supply the needed pressure/tweak the pressure?
4. Is it worth bypassing the selector valve and discarding the front tank or should i keep it as a back-up?
2. What did you do with your spare tire? (have a slide-in camper in bed so can't toss the spare tire in the bed)
3. What brand pump and regulator do you prefer? (will buy 2 pumps to have a spare on-hand) Is the regulator required to supply the needed pressure/tweak the pressure?
4. Is it worth bypassing the selector valve and discarding the front tank or should i keep it as a back-up?
2. You can modify the spare tire hanger and still fit it under the truck with the bigger tank.
3. I have a stock super duty pump that I plan on using with mine; it seemed like the most logical choice to me; every parts store in 'Murica will have one in stock if I get in a bind and need a cheapo to get me home.
Also, if you get the right regulator/feed block for your e-fuel set up, it will do everything you need it to. I have a MarkFuga style waiting for my truck.
4. The selector valve is only a weak link when you don't use it. So if you fill up both tanks consistently, and switch back and forth between them, you'll be fine. It's when you only ever run on one tank, or let it sit for multiple years without being touched that you'll have problems.
If it's worth looking into for you, the front tank can be modified to a bigger tank, too. I have a Super Duty tank on mine, which almost doubles the capacity, and the sending unit wires right in to the truck. It hangs down kind of low, but no lower than the rear axle.
#3
I can only answer #4 -- KEEP the front tank. Not just as a backup, but as part of the regular rotation. Whenever I can, I only run one tank down at a time. Keep the other one topped up. Then, when I fill the tank that I've run down, I drive on that tank for just a few miles, just to be sure there isn't a problem. Then I switch tanks, so I'm running down the tank I filled LAST time. This way, I'm never feeding both tanks from the same station/pump at one time. So if there's a bad batch of fuel, only that one tank is "infected", and I'm safe to drive on the other. Cheap insurance.
A lot of fellas say to ditch the tank switcher because of the "problems" it can have. But those problems seem to be way outnumbered by problems with the tanks themselves (leaks from rust, pickup issues), and the guys reporting switcher problems seem to be the ones who DON'T routinely switch tanks. The switching valve is def. one of those "use it or lose it" parts; you're more likely to have problems with it if you don't use it regularly. Analagous to parking brake cables; best way to make 'em fail is to NOT use the parking brake.
A lot of fellas say to ditch the tank switcher because of the "problems" it can have. But those problems seem to be way outnumbered by problems with the tanks themselves (leaks from rust, pickup issues), and the guys reporting switcher problems seem to be the ones who DON'T routinely switch tanks. The switching valve is def. one of those "use it or lose it" parts; you're more likely to have problems with it if you don't use it regularly. Analagous to parking brake cables; best way to make 'em fail is to NOT use the parking brake.
#4
#5
Yeah, skip the 33 gal Bronco tank and get the F26E that's 38 gallon.
You cannot hang the spare with the Bronco tank, but it hangs under there fine with the larger 38 gal tank.
I'd also keep the front tank, if you do any distance driving, you'll love the total capacity you'll have.
You cannot hang the spare with the Bronco tank, but it hangs under there fine with the larger 38 gal tank.
I'd also keep the front tank, if you do any distance driving, you'll love the total capacity you'll have.
__________________
'96 7.3 F-350 Reg Cab 4x4 - bought new.
'04 6.0 E-350 custom 4x4
'08 6.4 F-550 Reg Cab 6 spd 4x4
'17 6.7 F-250 KR ccsb 4x4
'96 7.3 F-350 Reg Cab 4x4 - bought new.
'04 6.0 E-350 custom 4x4
'08 6.4 F-550 Reg Cab 6 spd 4x4
'17 6.7 F-250 KR ccsb 4x4
#6
#7
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#8
Appreciate the help!
any suggestions you have for fuel pump and regulator manf?
#9
Is your truck close to stock? Mine is and I'm using a regular superduty fuel pump, It should be plenty to keep the psi my truck needs. I got two at a junkyard just to keep one as a spare. the one is a Bosch pump and the other is a Delphi I think. I tested them both and the Bosch is way quieter than the other, which is the one I'm using and the other will be my spare incase an emergency. Fuelab regulators are nice, also what I used in mine. of course if you have large injectors and are making plenty of horsepower you might want to be looking into an aftermarket pump.
#11
i got mine from amazon and used the rosewood guide for the install. it was reccomended that removing the bed might be easiest.
there is a link somewhere... check the tech sticky.
i also put up a how to on extending the spare tire mount.
richard