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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

1953 Turn Signal Wiring

 
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Old 11-23-2013, 11:30 AM
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1953 Turn Signal Wiring

I'm building a 53 F100 and having some electrical issues. Truck had been converted to 12 V prior to my purchase. While I would love to purchase a new wiring harness for the truck, it isn't in my budget.

I've got some gremlins and looking for help. Turn signals won't work properly. I'm wondering how they should be wired up, but have not found a wiring diagram that shows the turn signal circuit. I have found this diagram which is nice, but doesn't help with the signals:
1953 to 1956 Ford Truck wiring diagram(ClassicTruckShop.com)

Anybody have diagram that tells me how to properly wire the signals?
 
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Old 11-23-2013, 11:46 AM
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Here is a link from the web that shows to basic wiring diagrams for aftermarket switches, I am assuming yours is aftermarket the same theory applies.

Turn signal installation - VCCA Chat
 
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Old 11-23-2013, 12:08 PM
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Here is the factory version, in case it applies:
 
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Old 11-23-2013, 02:09 PM
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Thanks for the links.

My issue is that I'm trying to debug someone else's hack job. I've got instrument lights blinking with one turn signal, both front lamps blinking with right turn but not left, brake lights activate dash lights, headlight on vs. off causes a host of other problems, etc.

I suspect the headlight switch may have been wired wrong, but hard to tell. Still has the 60 year old wires that are breaking/exposed all over. Some of the existing wiring has been wrapped in tape completely so I don't know what color it was and other wire is so old I can't tell what color it was.

Frustrating for sure. I'll keep plugging along and figure it out with time.
 
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Old 11-23-2013, 02:29 PM
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I've got a factory turn signal switch setup in my '53. I have an easier time understanding the diagram if I imagine the power flowing in a direction from source to final destination. In that regard, I would have drawn the diagram posted by EffieTrucker showing that juice was coming from the stop light switch, rather than (like the diagram) showing an arrow indicator going to the stop light switch. Then, the way that the signal switch works to bring power for the lights from either the stop light switch or the flasher makes it easier for me to wrap my head around. The wiring color at my signal switch does have green for power in from the stop light switch. And, blue coming in from the flasher. But I've got orange w/ green trace going to the left light and green w/ orange trace going to the right light. I'm left with a white w/ blue trace and a green w/ white trace for my front turn signals. When I finally get around to putting my truck back together, I intend to verify all this for myself with a simple continuity tester.
 
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Old 09-20-2014, 05:42 PM
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54 F100- Installing new Gauges, have a few problems. All 12v system, 351w.

1. With headlights on left turn signal works normal. With headlights OFF when i turn my left signal on, all dash lights blink along with it. I have read headlight switch and ground issues. Installed brand new dash cluster problem happened before and after new cluster.

2. When i turn my key on, my oil gauge needle moves up a little before engine is even started. When i replaced the oil sender I used the same wire that was already there. It is fairly new but it is a solid copper wire, maybe 14 gauge. I have read i should use "stranded" wire could that be causing the issue?

Another point, when i ran my temp and oil sender wires, i zip tied them together. Could they be shorting each other? Now that i think about it i think the temp gauge jumps up just a little too before even starting the engine.

New dash cluster, all gauge grounds tied together and grounded to frame. Dash cluster itself separately also grounded to frame. If a grounding issue can i just run a ground straigt from the battery to the gauges?

Any input would be appreciated.
Thanks
Len
 
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Old 09-20-2014, 06:52 PM
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Vin man, You have an almost insurmountable list of complications to deal with: a PO that converted from 6V +grd to 12V - grd with no documentation or standardization; 60 year old wire and devices (switches, circuit breakers, sockets, etc) that are disintegrating: turnlight switch of unknown origin/internal connections/wiring; poor to non-existent grounds; etc, etc etc. Risking pointing out the obvious, a total rewire is likely the only option for you that will assure you of proper operation and safety. How expensive will it be when an electrical fire burns your truck to the ground or a shorted or broken wire leaves you (and/or your SO, children) stranded late at night in the wrong part of town? Universal aftermarket wiring harnesses are not that terribly expensive, they can be had for less than 160.00. If that would blow your budget (are you sure this is the hobby for you if it would?) then I'd suggest going old school, find a salvage yard with some pre electronic ignition (preferably 60s to 70s era with dash mounted ignition switch) full size GM sedans or pickups and spend a 1/2 day or so removing the entire wiring harness from one or two and using that to replace what's in your truck. I suggest GM vehicles as donors because GM stuck to a single wiring design and color coding in all their 12V vehicles, plus it's the same system, fuse blocks, connectors and switches the aftermarket has adopted and is therefore very well documented. Avoid cutting any wires when removing them if at all possible. I would also grab the fuse block, ignition switch if dash mounted, the lights and wiper switches, any relays, etc you come across as well as any/all 12V bulbs that appear to be good for reuse.

Be sure your truck's parking and taillights have double filament sockets (two base contacts at inside bottom, two wires coming out and the bayonette grooves for the bulb pins on the side of the sockets go to two different depths) and have 1157 bulbs in them. Make up and install 10ga stranded wire ground conductors between the frame and cab, the engine and frame, the cab and turnlight switch, the bed and frame, the instrument cluster and cab, the parking light housings/taillight housings and frame. If you rewire eliminate the antique circuit breakers in favor of a fuse panel.
 
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Old 09-22-2014, 07:25 AM
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Blinking dash lights fixed on turn signal, but...

I thought i would do an update in case it helps anyone else out there. I found my turn signal causing dash lights to blink to be a corroded bulb socket on my left from signal housing. Clean that and my problem went away. Now i still have 2 other outstanding issues.

1. My turn signals (both) and when i put my foot on brake, makes volt gauge jump. If I turn on headlights at same time engine off, it drops to almost 0. Must be another ground issue? I grounded the volt gauge by itself no go. Only other common is the light for the volt gauge is tied together with all other positives for light, going to ignition switch.


2. Also the oil gauge shows a little on the gauge (maybe 10 or so ) as soon as I turn on key and before starting. After starting reads about 60 when going down road I think 50 was normal before. It seems a bit high but I can live with that if I have to but would like it right. See previous post above on my wiring.





Anyone else have this issue?
Thanks
Len
 
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Old 09-22-2014, 10:30 AM
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Part of the conversion to 12v involves using a 12v-to-6v converter for the gauges. That frequently causes the gauges to read incorrectly. Or possibly the PO didn't put in the converter? It sounds like you need to slug it out thru the whole electrical system to find out what was done and how poorly. Likely a lot of just plain old wiring that needs attention too.
 
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Old 09-29-2014, 07:18 AM
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Grounding Issue Still

Hey Guys wondering if someone can help me figure this out. When i turn my headlights on, my highbeam light stays on all the time. When i hit high beam it gets brighter, but stays on nonetheless. This was after I change out all my guages including turn signla lights with tiny LED ones that fit in the cluster.

Someone suggested grounds "Make up and install 10ga stranded wire ground conductors between the frame and cab, the engine and frame, the cab and turnlight switch, the bed and frame, the instrument cluster and cab, the parking light housings/taillight housings and frame."

I have done most of this, spent all day grounding. New grounds between frame to cab, the engine to frame. I did not do bed to frame or the others should I? I used a test ground wire testing various grounds nothing seemed to change it.

Also I regrounded all my gauges and gauge lights. Then I connected a tester to the ground on the battery to the bundle of ground wires on teh dash cluster, and I DID get a reading as soon as I turn the key on OR turn lights on. Someone said it should read 0 all the time.

Then this became my test for every ground connection. I traced it all the way down the line no difference. All the way to the point where I connected the tester from neg on battery directly to the frame and I got a reading there with key ON!

If the frame itself is showing a reading what does that mean and what should I look for next any thoughts?

I have all new wiring harness, 12v system from day one on resto no conversion always has been 12v, 351w.

Also should the fuel sender ground go to the body or to the frame?

Thanks Len
 
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Old 09-29-2014, 08:36 AM
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Originally Posted by lens54 View Post
Hey Guys wondering if someone can help me figure this out. When i turn my headlights on, my highbeam light stays on all the time. When i hit high beam it gets brighter, but stays on nonetheless. This was after I change out all my guages including turn signla lights with tiny LED ones that fit in the cluster.

Thanks Len
My guess would be that stray light from your dash lights is showing through the high beam hole.

Mine does the same thing, though our dashes are different.
 
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Old 09-29-2014, 05:56 PM
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Joe no it is not that i removed the old light. I have a new LED now turn signals as well they work fine. Cant figure out why connected direct to ground on battery, to frame i get a reading on my tester. I have heard that tells you something is not ground right if it reads anything but 0.0. Driving me nuts. Bet if i found that i would find my high beam light and volt gauge drop problem when i hit brakes and signals.

Any thoughts fire away. Thanks
Len
 
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Old 09-29-2014, 08:27 PM
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Joe is saying that one of your new lights is so bright that it is bleeding through the cluster and making your high beam look like it is illuminated. I agree that could be the issue but I feel you have a ground problem on the dash cluster. Ground that particular socket and see what happens. Another test is pull the high beam bulb tape over the hole (electrical tape) and see if you see the high beam light with the dash lights on, if it does Joe is right with bleed through.
 
 
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