haha thanks.yeah im pretty excited to work her again.the E40D is a never ending learning experience.....or to many a never ending headache lol.

new set of stanadyne g codes w/delphi install kit also on the way.she was running pretty rough at idle there and i really don't expect it to get any better on it's own.i see a reman ip (IFS) on it but injectors unknown.figure i might as well get it done while she's waiting for trans parts.smooth her right up and get her right again.
the local welding shop has got my lift gate and repairing the rust.i'll have to call them and let 'em know its going to be about a week until i can bring the truck up to have it installed.
on the lookout for a used auto crane now to load full length logs.

 

Have a 87 just a donor now...91 and 93 all 250s . I retired the 87 because there is more rust then truck.It and the 91 were amazing...the 91 is coming up to 1000000k.Brakes and fluid changes all it ever asked for.But the 93 has had a few tranny gremlins....You and the gang have been awesome with your advice....i believe i have got it figured out..finally found a obd1....cheap cheap....i normally would have just sent the trucks to the shop...but times are a lil tuffer money wise and need to stretch my retirement loot out a bit so have taken to doing my own service. You guys are amazing with these monsters i am learning the more i do my own work the more i actually like the trucks....go fish...Not sure i am about to rebuild a e4od in the carport yet but am really grateful for all the help...Dig both your old haulers...Very cool again thanks

 

lol 250, your love for e4od's isn't healthy. glad to see your making progress though

 

ah frig this new setup.our album setup went to chit.they should just remove it too along with the garage and fuel economy records i had so much time invested in.
i'll be a few........stay tuned.Superior K062 E40D Pump Correction Package install coming soon.

 

so you can't see the pic in the album as it's chopped,yet for some reason it appears once inserted in a post.ok whatever.im so done frigging with this bs.
omg this is painstaking.the work was easier than posting pics of it now! lmao.damnit.i can't try and work around it the old way either,as they wont match.no way they can leave this site so frigged up so im just gunna go with this for now,even though it's taking forever.the end result is a larger pic which is better,so i'll go through the long/new way for this post anyway.
ok.think i got the best method by far.insert them all using the new method from album then edit the post and sort it all out after.saves frigging with at least one whole section.meanwhile though this post will look like crap lol....................
i want to pull my hair out.iv got to start over......

...............

today on log truck,log truck gets the upgraded 1995-1997 high volume pump.unlike my '93's with the E9/F5 combo (for a semi high volume setup,better than previous years) which i was informed was galled and no longer any good,i scored this nice used f5/f5 setup on ebay.

i pulled the trangso mod parts and inserted them in the replacement.now it's onto further modding with Superior's E40D Pump Correction Package #K062

so the transgo mods were to address lockup feel.a nice crisp on/off for a more shift like feeling,rather than a semi glide lock in.
now,what this superior kit will do,will provide more lube flow and keep the pump bushing from walking and causing the issues i had with my old pump with an updated bushing with knurls on the back side,and an increased drain back hole built into the bushing.apparently the pump will outflow oem settings at idle with this kit installed.
the kit is also for the latter E40D's (known as the 4r100) as well and comes complete with the devoted parts to "upgrade" the 4R100's pump to act like the E40D's pump,making it act as on/off.since this is the E4,of course i won't be doing anything with that devoted package of parts.

note:
pics of drill/bit are angled only to help show where to drill (so i was out of the way when snapping the pics.) when actually drilling,drill as straight as possible.

the instructions:




step 2:
using a straight edge,to help you make sure you drill into the bore:



step 3:



step 4:




step 5A:




step 5B:



step 5C:



step 5D:


step 5D/pic underside/drilled through.
Caution! STOP HERE:



step 6:










step 7:


oops.i forgot to enlarge the drain back hole.i'll have to do so carefully now with the bushing in.should have done it before pressing it in,but shouldn't be an issue.edit; it was an issue.had to back out bushing a bit,clean then reapply thread locker.best not to forget.
notice the nice update here.a nice large built in drain back hole into the bushing for superior lube flow (pun intended lol.)


see one problem superior made here? they made it so,that the place where you need to stake a side,is right on their connection.poor planning on their part as this slightly knocks the bushing out of round a tad right here.use caution not to get too crazy staking this particular spot too much or else converter may not slide into pump!
test fit pump on converter before placing pump into trans!!!


now get out the brake kleen/carb cleaner and spray,spray,spray and then spray clean some more.no metal shavings/filings to be left.spotless.iv got some more spraying to do to mine still.
then it's onto step 8...reassembly and then placing pump back into trans,then trans back into truck.then finally the issues i had with front pump of the E40D - aka "busing walk" should be a thing of the past.a fairly common issue/flaw as iv got to read about the E40D.hopefully cured for good now.


now if only someone would restore this site back to when it had full features and worked good,we'd be all set.
iv never had a single post take me a hour to post before.this was pathetic.

oh.added note.along with my ebay pump seal kit came a good quality updated seal from precision.
SUB-K3614
16601EV
E40D/4r100
Viton Front Pump Seal.


ebay search: Ford 4x4 E4OD E40D Transmission Front Pump seal Kit
seller: ventura9652
store: HIGHPOINT TRANSMISSION PARTS

 

to drill or not to drill.......that is the question.
something brought to my attention,that i had forgotten about.notice the transgo front mod boost valve kit says to "look" do not drill hole here.if there is a hole,plug it.
notice the superior kit said to drill it (which i did) step # 5A.





im figuring transgo's kit here was just increased spring pressures.with the superior kit,i had drilled a hole re-directing fluid.to play it safe,the hole should be left open even if transgo says to plug it right? though it might not provide the great firm lockup with it drilled?
does anyone know why transgo would have someone plug this hole? it would never had been there from the factory right? so they must know someone who drilled it out must have superiors kit installed? if they know superiors kit was installed,why would they disagree with the hole?
does the 4r100 pump have a hole in this location?
thoughts here guys? looking for the safest plan of action.im figuring increased lube flow with superiors kit is the one to focus on.especially now that iv redirected fluid by drilling into the bore and plugging off a passage with that extra rod and plug inserted.
this is why iv got a feeling,that if transgo knew superiors k062 kit was installed,they would say not to plug it in the case but i dunno.

 

You installed the bushing with joint in the wrong place. That is why when it was staked it got distorted.

 

well that's what i would have figured too and very well could be the case,however that would mean the instructions are wrong.
step 7 and it's diagram says/shows:
line up lube groove in bushing with slot machined in pump pocket as shown.

 

so either that one is wrong or someone installed the one in the old pump incorrectly.
this is the oem (well.the pump i pulled originally anyway.the e9/f5 combo) before i touched the old bushing.pic from post # 158
clearly in different places.


is the diagram incorrect of the superior instructions? do you think it will be ok as is or will i have to try again? do you think i'll have to call superior to get another bushing or think i can pull and reuse it?
i slid the pump onto the converter and it fits a bit snug,but fits.



edit,but wait a min.it has to be in the correct place because when you flip it over,you see the aftermarket large drain back hole lined up to the drain.

(that drain hole behind the bushing looks massive reamed out to 5/16 in comparison to this now.didn't take a pic again.i should.)
if you spun it like the old pump shows,then the drain back notch would be way off.
i think they simply manufactured the connection in a poor place without thinking it through.......or perhaps since it has knurls built into it,they don't want it staked? but that would sound suspicious.plus they didn't say either way.
i think you'd be asking for trouble not staking it.i really think iv got her ready to go in.im holding off though as much as id like to get this trans back in the truck.i want anyone and everyone to show any mistakes.if i have to pull the trans again,i'll just call uncle and take it to the trans shop.well that,or just try another used f5 probably.swap the transgo boost valve mods over,toss a new seal at it and call it good if the bushing looks fair.

edit 2;
but then again i like the idea of tossing that plastic converter valve with spring for a metal one too.i think i bullet proofed this sob and im good to go.pump is by far best conditioned piece of entire 190k mile trans lol.
ok i think they need to address where they place their bushing seam,but what little distortion that caused,i think will ware right down quick and smooth right out.
if i can get 20-30k miles (which would probably be 3-4 yrs for this secondary truck if not longer?) on just this what, i dunno $150 repair? maybe $200 ish? ($90 used pump.35$ superior kit misc seals/bushings) before iv got to pay real $ on a hd reman....then objective complete.
the thing shifts and works so good,if iv stopped the leak and saved the trans before the oem pump failed,who knows,i might have just saved it for 50-75 maybe even another 100k miles.time will tell.

can ya tell im nearing close to the decision to just put her in and run 'er?

 

tonight on log truck............she lives.log truck is resurrected.


so the replacement used,updated high volume 95' spec front pump together with superiors increased lube flow and upgraded bushing and transgo boost valve and springs brought the old gal back.for under $150 to boot.you can't beat saving a multi thousand dollar trans for under 2 bills.

i haven't driven it yet because not only did i brake the MLPS (since replaced with a new one) but apparently i broke the shift cable too.i guess i bent it too hard putting it up out of the way on top of the frame. just too old to take the little extra twisting i guess.no biggie.iv got one overnighted via amazon so i can test drive it tomorrow after double checking the fluid level,but the main thing is,no more trans leaks.im sure she's good to go.lets hope this is one of only a few minor setbacks with the truck for a bit.as to be expected though.she's 20 years young with a couple hundred thousand miles.this is why i made sure not to over pay when buying her.

keep it right here on channel 444 as there will be plenty more to come on the log truck show.

 

tonight on log truck................the tender loving care continues with some more repairs and maintenance.

so moving on now that her E40D is no longer gushing the fluid from her from pump seal.it's time to take care of a few minor but important things.
so you may recall where i had tried a new door spring a while back? if not,no loss lol.so anyway i scored a used one.a whole drivers side upper hinge.ironically also white.
so out with the old and in with the new.then it was time to tweak the alignment and door striker.now the door remains open for you when you open it and she closes with nice "click" + "thud" like new sound.
moving forward,you may recall i was working on the windshield wipers? i had replaced the spray motor.well i also scored (from the same used parts truck) the couple t's and line i needed due to mine leaking.i replaced the one coming out of the container and the one up in the cowl close to the driver side wiper along with both spray nozzles.so now iv got a nice working and leak free windshield washer system again.
well while i was in there,fortunately for me i had driven in a small shower to or from work,or it might had been the day out to get fuel.either way i recalled the wiper motor had that real sad sound to it lol.so i figured i might as well get it while the getting was good and be done with the cowl for a while.so i went ahead and put one in from auto zone.same one i bought for chip truck with lifetime warranty.she sounds much more healthy that's for sure.when ever disconnecting electrical wires it's always a good idea to spray them with e-cleaner,let them dry,then hit them with the electric tune up grease.
i hit the front end with the grease gun as i hadn't gotten around to that yet.
when loading the truck up there for the first time,it occurred to me when i saw the tires start to bulge.not bad,just enough to let me know i forgot to air up the tires.the truck has been sitting for a while after all.
so i had the valve stem adapters (i didn't take pics) in the glove box.i put on the 180 degrees for the outside rear and then the 7" extenders on the inside rear and startv checking them.the fronts where not too bad.about 65-70 lbs.the rears were pretty low around 55-65 lbs.so i brought all six up to 80 lbs.

that was enough.she was unloaded and ready for a good little ride around town.
she's running great with nice firm shifts....could be firmer but not bad and even a nice solid lockup now thanks to the pump mods.if you talk to her the shifts are right there and begging for the next one.with these steep 5.13 gears shes locking up almost as soon as she enters 3rd and od ain't much further behind lol.
this old rig is going to be a dream to work.
so she's ready for the shops!
first up,she's ready for shop #1.the local welding and fabrication shop.they will be install the used and repaired hydraulic lift gate.
then it's onto shop #2.the local tire shop.she needs one tire.up front.all like new minus this one.the previous owner let the front end go out of alignment for too long and she ate up the side of it.so i'll have them pull all 6.insure all get metal stems,balance and rotation.though not much to rotate as they are super new looking.
then it's onto shop #3.the big rig alignment shop.the only place around who can fit this custom stretched 197" wheel based behemoth in.
then i suspect she'll drive real nice.

also coming soon to the log truck show here on channel 444;
log trucks gets a Delphi injector install kit,combined with viton o-rings with a set of new stanadyne turbo G codes.then she gets her engine timing checked and set via the pulse adapter and timing light w/ advance.you don't want to miss that,so stay tuned and i hope you enjoyed this basic (but after the pulling of the trans......twice.it's a o k with me lol) and simple episode.

 

Did you already install the new cooler lines? I read through the last two pages of posts and wasn't sure if I missed it. I plan on changing my E4OD pan for a 4R100 pan and increasing the cooler line size also and was hoping to pull part #'s . Thanks for the great information and tireless documentation.

 

on mine I just took the old ones in and had rubber hydraulic lines made, there easy to install, resist rubbing better and can handle way more heat and pressure that normal atf line,

 

no i didn't get to this yet.i wanted to make sure the trans was going to be ok first.unfortunately my second attempt to cure the front trans leak has failed as well.
now i have a leak from the front just the same,but now it appears to be very minor in comparison.what's more is it also seems to leak only under load.if i pull over and look under,i can see it dripping steady.let idle and it will stop pretty much all together once the converter shield drains.
i had thought perhaps i just overfilled the trans and it was very hard to tell just where it was on the stick.i let some out and then could see it is now a good quart low and it just started to flare into 4th,so can't have that.i can no doubt drive it to the trans shop and let them deal with it.most likely what i'll do at this point.pulling and placing the trans in twice was enough for me.besides i just don't know what would be leaking anyway at this point.

edit;trackspeeder helped me diagnose it as the front pump washer bolts.trans shop i bought washers from,wasn't washers.it was just 1! not the pack of 9.stupid.whats worse though is i didn't just find them before putting trans in.i thought i could get away with re-using them.serves me right for trying to cut corners.
so i'm going to go ahead and tackle it one more time.after all 3rd times' a charm right?
ford stealer had some NOS in stock: E9TZ-7G379-A
what sells for like 2 bucks online for a pack of 9,the stealer sold me for close to 20 bucks.but they had them at least.be sure to order them ahead of time and make sure the supplier states pack of 9 is the lesson to be learned here.

the welding shop isn't ready to install the lift gate yet,so i took it in for the tire rotation and get the tires rebalanced.no more lead weights and the new type went flying off under a half mile down the road.they then tried sticky weights and some of those dropped off just turning in there lot lol.so i'll need to try and have them balanced with the stuff they put right in the tires.
anyway,now with the tires rotated i went to the alignment shop.now she's running true again.
feels like progress isn't going as smoothly as it did but eventually this old gal will be trustworthy and brought back up to par.
one thing iv put off for too long already is trying to source my power steering leak.i can tell she's down again today after sitting overnight at the alignment shop.hopefully the engine degreaser i used cleaned things up enough for me to see which seal or line it is now into the steering box.iv got to get this slow leak taken care of as well.
she's still running smokey.no word yet on the returns but the dieselstore sent me remans instead of new injectors.when they get here i'll be installing those,a new tps and then set the timing.
she sure does go nice now with no more pull and the tires rotated with the front choppy ones out back now.still keeping my eyes open for a nice used auto crane as well.the 3203EH should do nicely for loading logs
http://www.autocrane.com/html/servic...0?hotlinxhdr=0
but thus far nothing local coming up.

 

another update.it's hard to believe iv gone through a tank and put 160 miles on the truck already.with the first little run to fuel up,the first (and only thus far) work day and the test runs by me,and from and to different shops,but her first record is in the books!

things i know that are or were still issues during her first tank;
1.fuel injectors
2.engine timing unknown.
3.front end out of alignment.
4.low tire pressures in all 6.
5.unbalanced/improperly balanced tires.
6.engine fan untested.however it doesn't appear to be failed in a lock up state,so i don't suspect it.it's just not yet tested/confirmed yet.