Well I finally had one come in the shop recently after not seeing them for a long time. So I decided to shoot a video on the current favorite removal method that is working for us shops out there, since there are a few videos out there but they are all of poor quality. This works about 90% of the time. It seems you will usually break one out of 8 though and for that I have a new video coming out showing in detail the extraction process made simple. I hope this helps as this can be very costly. Most shops charge a half and hour more in additional labor each plug that breaks this can really add up!

 

So similar procedure for the 3V V10 in the affected years.... As a tech what is your thought process when to do them? Get em out asap even if everything is running fine? Or wait until it's needed? My thoughts are when I need to get this done I will be doing it during the winter when my truck is garaged. My garage is not heated but nothing freezes in it. Would the cold pose an issue with removal? This would allow me A LOT of time to work on it and not need it for anything.

 

TSB 08-7-6 recommends a cold engine.

CAUTION
DO NOT REMOVE PLUGS WHEN THE ENGINE IS WARM OR HOT. THE ENGINE MUST BE AT ROOM TEMPERATURE WHEN PERFORMING SPARK PLUG SERVICE. REMOVING THE SPARK PLUGS FROM A WARM/HOT ENGINE INCREASES THE CHANCE THE THREADS COULD BE DAMAGED.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/tsb/full...php?tsb=08-7-6

 

Yes I know of this tsb I am a Ford Tech remember. The only thing they are worried about is thread strippage, that's why I say a warm engine. Pulling plugs out of a hot aluminum cylinder heads has always had the risk of pulling threads. I have never had an issue and all I work on now are aluminum cylinder heads.

I would pull them asap as stated in the other post, mainly because of breakage and the new plugs being made not to break, but also because the plug has gone through so many design changes for all kinds of driveability issues. I have seen very few issues with the 4.6 and 6.8l the 5.4 was the worst and mid 07 they fixed the issue for 08MY engines finally. If you have to do them cold so be it, warm is best. I see you have a 08MY engine, to check if it has the new style plugs in it remove the coil and check the boots, if they are brown you got the new design plug and you are ok don't touch them.

 

No they're the bad ones. That was actually confirmed for me as this was an early build. We'll see what happens when I can get a chance.

Thanks.

 

Would someone tell me why the chance of damageing head threads is increased when removeing plugs from a warm/hot engine.I've removed plugs from a lot of Al.heads when hot or warm with no head thread damage.

 

It gets soft of course, but the threads on these engines are so robust you won't have a problem.

 

Awesome, thanks for the video!

I should get around to doing mine one of these days. As far as I know, mine are original with 110K on them. I don't have a 3/8 impact, only a 1/2 inch, but I do have a cordless impact driver so I'll probably try using that for removal.

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Yes but be ready for a few to break with that mileage, so get the lisle tool for extracting beforehand from Amazon it's the cheapest. In case you didn't see it I have a video for the extraction too. It will happen.

 

Yep, I saw that video too and I do plan on getting the extraction tool before I do them.

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Good good, hope it all works out for ya!

 

How come nobody is mentioning running a heavy mix of Marvel oil in the tank first?

 

i did my v10 plugs at 130k and broke 2 or 3 IIRC

I used my makita impact driver.

 

Maybe the impact only works on the 3v plugs.

 

They are 3v plugs in the 06 v10 6.8l 3v, and air impact is best though.