Steering Column and Chip
#1
Steering Column and Chip
I have owned a 2003 7.3 for the past almost 4 years. Had 90,000 when bought, now has 152,000. I use as a daily driver and to pull my 10,000 lb fifth wheel. Been running a programer since I bought it. Have had the high pressure oil pump, fuel pump and computer replaced. Here are my current issues:
The trans shifter indicator on the steering column has stopped working, and I've been driving and shifting by feel. Now there is a rattling in the column when driving. I've read this is a common problem on these trucks, and the stealership wants $600 to replace. (how's that for living up to that nickname?). How much should I expect to pay for this replacement, and how involved is it?
2nd, with 152,000 miles is it too late to put a chip on the truck? Would like to get better performance when towing than what the programer is providing. I use the RV on average one weekend a month, and an occasional long (1,500 mile) trip. If I change to a chip, what would you recommend? And will I need to upgrade my exhaust above the muffler delete I did a few years back?
Thanks
The trans shifter indicator on the steering column has stopped working, and I've been driving and shifting by feel. Now there is a rattling in the column when driving. I've read this is a common problem on these trucks, and the stealership wants $600 to replace. (how's that for living up to that nickname?). How much should I expect to pay for this replacement, and how involved is it?
2nd, with 152,000 miles is it too late to put a chip on the truck? Would like to get better performance when towing than what the programer is providing. I use the RV on average one weekend a month, and an occasional long (1,500 mile) trip. If I change to a chip, what would you recommend? And will I need to upgrade my exhaust above the muffler delete I did a few years back?
Thanks
#2
I can only address one of these issues with knowledge. The chip can be replaced at any time. I did mine around 221000. The main thing before doing that is making sure all leaks are addressed. Boost, oil, coolant, fuel, etc. make sure the truck is running right before the addition of the chip. If you don't have gauges, I would recommend add those first.
#3
Removing the plastic covers on the steering column is real easy. There are three phillips head screws on the bottom side, remove them and the bottom comes right off. To get the top off, you have to remove the ignition switch tumbler. Move the driver's seat back all the way and lie on the floor looking up to the switch, you should see a small hole on the bottom of the tumbler. Set the parking brake!!! Put the key into the tumbler and turn the key to run(do not start), a ball should show up in the small hole, push the ball with a small punch or mini screwdriver and you should be able to pull the tumbler out. You will need to shift the truck out of park to remove the plastic so that's why you need to set the parking brake. Once you got the covers off, you can start to troubleshoot where your problems lie with the shift indicator (I'm not sure what you are describing that it "stopped working".) A common problem is the O/D light and or button stops working due to a chaffed wire coming out of the shifter that crosses over the top of the column (see pic). It shorts out on the column and the O/D cannot be manually shifted using the button.
#4
The little pointer in the dash is controlled by a small steel cable that is routed under the steering column. See if it came loose under the column or came unhooked from one end.
There's really not much to these.
You can see one end of the cable above. That side likely is fine, but you'll need to check the rest of the cable.
Here's where it mounts under the steering column.
If that screw came out, it may not allow the cable to move the spring loaded indicator.
Here's the other end of the cable that hooks up at the shifter. Note the little geared wheel. That can be used to fine tune or adjust the pointer if it's off a hair.
There's really not much to these.
You can see one end of the cable above. That side likely is fine, but you'll need to check the rest of the cable.
Here's where it mounts under the steering column.
If that screw came out, it may not allow the cable to move the spring loaded indicator.
Here's the other end of the cable that hooks up at the shifter. Note the little geared wheel. That can be used to fine tune or adjust the pointer if it's off a hair.
#6
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
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and if the hoop on the indicator is loose, the part is around $75
as for the slop in the shifter, there are 2 screws that hold the shift tube in. they loosen up and cause the slop.
if you remove the lower dash cover you should be able to see them. tighten them up and you should be golden.
as for the slop in the shifter, there are 2 screws that hold the shift tube in. they loosen up and cause the slop.
if you remove the lower dash cover you should be able to see them. tighten them up and you should be golden.
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#8
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thanks!!
i was super busy before, and did not have the time to search for that link.
then when i got done with what i was doing, i forgot all about following up with the link.
#9
Ally-ooop....
A.D.D. is fun when trying to
ooohhhhh look a squirrel!!!
ooohhhhh look a squirrel!!!
Stewart
#10
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
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