We recently bought a 2000 Excursion Limited 4x4 V10 with the intent of driving around the country for a few years towing our travel trailer. We have yet to buy the trailer, but know we want to atay around 7,000-9,000 lbs fully loaded.

I've been browsing the forum here for a while and it seems like there are a ton of knowledgeable people here. I've deduced that I have the 4.3:1 rear diff (Drive line ~4.5 revolutions / rear wheel 1 revolution along with a 2300rpm at 65mph) and CG springs.

Im trying to find the more cost effective way of prepping the rig for long term towing, i.e. air bags, springs, sway bars, or a combination. I've already had ALL fluids done and bought load E tires. Not sure why someone had load C tires on it...

Any advice?

Thanks in advance,
Josh

 

I hate to break it to you but the 2000 has a lower tow rating due to the smaller bolts used to secure the hitch receiver to the frame, unless it was upgraded to the larger bolts. 2001 and up had the improved tow rating. I think you will probably be at your maximum with that weight you're looking at. I would do some more research if I were you.

Get a rear Hellwig sway bar, good brake controller, and good WD hitch. Other nice things would be a Scangauge2 to monitor transmission temperature, a trans cooler from a 6.0 diesel, and airbags or RAS.

That's it from the top of my head. I'm sure others will chime in and add to it.

 

Thanks for the knowledge. I'm going to do some more research, but have a question to clarify on the tow rating.

I went out an looked on my hitch and it says 5000/500 Weight carrying, 10000/1000 load equalizing. that would put me in a comfortable range at 7000 - 9000 right?

If I do have the lower rated hitch, could I just put larger bolts on?

Thanks again,
Josh

 

If you look up in trailerlife.com for tow ratings for 2000 V10 Ex 4x4, it says 9700 lbs. so you should be ok. Mine is around 11, 500 lbs. with 4.30 for the '02 model year 2wd. 2000 did not provide a separate rating for gears probably because of the bolts.

I have read folks here drilling larger holes and using the larger hardware (that's the only ones you could get from Ford anyway) which technically should increase your tow rating, but I don't think the DMV sees it that way as the documentation for your model year is for the lower rating. Need to be careful under the eyes of the law.

 

I see what jh818 is getting at, but as long as you manage your tongue weight and don't exceed the 1,000 lb capacity of the hitch you should be just fine.

I towed across the country with over 15,000 lbs behind me last week and I managed to not rip the hitch off. You shouldn't have a problem.

 

Here's a thread to read regarding the hitch ratings and bolts. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...-hardware.html

With a travel trailer, you'll want to end up around 15% +/- 2 of trailer weight as your tongue weight. 7000 lb trailer that works out to 1050. 9000 = 1350. That's important for stability and 15% doesn't necessarily apply to other type of trailers.

Based on that you should stay under 7000 if you want to stay within the ratings, unless you upgrade the bolts. Technically, bolts are not an official upgrade, but from everything I have read it seems to be the only difference.

Be aware when shopping for trailers, the dry weight and what you will actually see when loaded are 2 very different things. Figure on an extra 1500 lbs over dry for total weight and an extra 200-300 lbs on the tongue.

I'm also a fan of the items mentioned by jh818, all easy DIY things that make it a solid tow machine.

 

Thanks for the info guys.

After reading the excellent article that ExxWhy posted a link to, it looks like maybe the bolt grade is the difference. I've got the numbers 9.8 on my bolts. The article is saying a grade of 10.9 ("M14 is a metric size specification for a hardened bolt. They would need to be at least 10.9 grade (metric again)") is needed, or is it from grade 4 to 5?

Let's just assume I'm going to upgrade the bolts for safeties sake and I'm not expecting any increase in load rating.

I'm not leaving untill late spring early summer. I'd like to do it a little at a time. I already have a trailer brake.
If I were to try to do this on a budget, what is the most important piece to add, then maybe the second most important?

Transmission cooler (If so, is it a snap on install if it's for a diesel rig?)
Transmission temp monitor (Seems pretty important...)
Rear airbags
Rear sway bar
Front sway bar
RAS


Am I looking for a front, rear or both sway bar? Btw, will the RAS cover this job?

I have more questions, but I'm going to search the forums here before I ask too many questions at once.

 

Looks like the guys here on the forums say airbags are not worth it on an X. RAS is the way to go I guess.
From what I've read here on Ford-Trucks.com I think I'd want to upgrade my springs too.
I have the CG springs. Could I go to the local wrecking yard and get some super-duty springs to throw on there?

 

I got a RAS on Ebay for cheap. Roadmaster Active Suspension MK II XXF | eBay

 

Get the rear sway bar. You most likely have a front one already unless the previous owner removed it. I don't see any reason why one would.

RAS helps, but you can add later on if you want. Trans temp gauge is very helpful for the longevity of the transmission if you pull over when it gets really hot. I think it was 230 degrees is max. A 6.0 trans cooler is not needed, but could help you not hit that 230 degrees and pulling over to let it cool. If it gets close to that temp, just pull aside and let it idle in park to cool off before you go further on your trip.

If you're constantly downshifting on slight grades, turn off OD. The constant shifting will heat up your transmission fast.

 

We have been on the road for 5 months with our travel trailer. It is a Jayco 32 BHDS that weighs a little over 9k loaded. We have the RAS with no rear sway bar and use the Reese Dual Cam hitch with 1200lb round bars. Tows nicely and haven't had any issues to date.

I like the RAS because it helps with stability (roll) and helps with the extra weight so it doesn't squat as much. Headed to Savanah Georgia from NC Thursday for a few days then to Port Richey Florida after that for a few months. It's to cold here in NC haha.

 

Hey jmatthews. Got same trailer, towed it last year with my ex (2005 v10, 373 gears). Pulled no problem here in flat Florida but truck was over the place, couldn't go over 55 mph.. Installed new springs v/b over holidays and pulled a 18' flat bed trailer with three ATVs from Pa to Fl and handled like a dream... Can't wait to try Jayco. Might have to change gears tho...

 

Every trailer is different though. My stock Excursion handled my empty 28' car hauler like a dream, and the trailer weighed 4,200 lbs which is probably more than your ATV trailer. No clue how it would have done loaded down though, as I made some modifications before I even tried.

 

Well first I would like to express gratitude for all the helpful info here

Thanks to all who put their two cents in

From what I gather, this is the order of priority.

1 Transmission Temp monitor
2 Rear sway bar
3 RAS
4 Grade 5 bolts for my hitch

Seem alike a quite affordable way to be prepared for some family fun for a few years!

 

Side note.

Ill be in a convoy around the country with my folks in law. They will be in the X with the travel trailer, Ill be in an 04' Fleetwood on a Ford frame with a Triton V10!

I wonder how similar the engines are...