oil pan gasket
#4
Dont trust the gasket.
Get the grey goo.
Flip the motor upside down on the stand.
Clean like a ocd rabid squirrel.
Brake parts cleaner does well for removing any remaining oil/residue.
I like to let them sit and allow the goo to cure for a solid 24 hours.
Get the tube of goo that fits in a caulk gun... makes it much more manageable.
Get the grey goo.
Flip the motor upside down on the stand.
Clean like a ocd rabid squirrel.
Brake parts cleaner does well for removing any remaining oil/residue.
I like to let them sit and allow the goo to cure for a solid 24 hours.
Get the tube of goo that fits in a caulk gun... makes it much more manageable.
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#6
#7
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#8
hi
i always considered the "goo" a half measure. It brings to mind something a DIY from the old days would do...slather the RTV to a surface to save a few bucks.
With this goo, if the surface isn't perfectly clean, void of all oil, then its a no go. The engine has to be upside down, heavy as it is, on an engine stand that can stand that weight.
Assuming torque procedures are followed, this reusable gasket should do the trick.
i always considered the "goo" a half measure. It brings to mind something a DIY from the old days would do...slather the RTV to a surface to save a few bucks.
With this goo, if the surface isn't perfectly clean, void of all oil, then its a no go. The engine has to be upside down, heavy as it is, on an engine stand that can stand that weight.
Assuming torque procedures are followed, this reusable gasket should do the trick.
#9
hi
i always considered the "goo" a half measure. It brings to mind something a DIY from the old days would do...slather the RTV to a surface to save a few bucks.
With this goo, if the surface isn't perfectly clean, void of all oil, then its a no go. The engine has to be upside down, heavy as it is, on an engine stand that can stand that weight.
Assuming torque procedures are followed, this reusable gasket should do the trick.
i always considered the "goo" a half measure. It brings to mind something a DIY from the old days would do...slather the RTV to a surface to save a few bucks.
With this goo, if the surface isn't perfectly clean, void of all oil, then its a no go. The engine has to be upside down, heavy as it is, on an engine stand that can stand that weight.
Assuming torque procedures are followed, this reusable gasket should do the trick.
Besides, if the engine is out of the truck, cleaning and prepping the mating surfaces should be simple.
#10
No, sorry, but it doesn't work on the 2wd either.
The pan was designed by International to be installed using goo. There are probably 100's of millions of miles on 7.3's with the goo that has worked fine. Since the pan wasn't designed to be used with a gasket, you really need to ask if the bolt pattern is sufficient to seal the pan with only a gasket.
Besides, if the engine is out of the truck, cleaning and prepping the mating surfaces should be simple.
The pan was designed by International to be installed using goo. There are probably 100's of millions of miles on 7.3's with the goo that has worked fine. Since the pan wasn't designed to be used with a gasket, you really need to ask if the bolt pattern is sufficient to seal the pan with only a gasket.
Besides, if the engine is out of the truck, cleaning and prepping the mating surfaces should be simple.
#12
On the subject of the Moroso pan gasket for the 7.3 I have yet to use one for the 7.3. I plan on using the Moroso gasket when I have to do my oil pan on my truck. But I will go on the record as saying I have used many of the Moroso pan gaskets and valve cover gaskets in my line of work and they make some very nice stuff. Great fit and don't leak as long as they are installed correctly and torqued to their specs. Now the material they use for the 7.3 gaskets is the same stuff FelPro uses in some of their gaskets and works great as long as you get it clean and dry and a small bead of RTV in the front and rear corners.
I had a boat this spring that had engines with cast oil pans that called for cork gaskets and have weird dip stick tube set up that was different on each engine. I called Moroso and they set me up with part #'s ordered them ordered them from Jegs. They came with new bolts that would not work with the cast pan so had to figure out what bolt length I needed and get new bolts. And on this boat the engines had to have the rear windows removed and the engines went in though the window openings so there was NO way I was going to want to pull these engines again due to an oil leak. Trust me when I say the USCG is real funny about oil leaks even in the boat. There are many other cases that Moroso parts have saved my butt.
Now as far as the RTV/ Goo goes I know the factory and many guys have very good luck with it. And maybe it is me but almost everytime I do a RTV gasket something goes wrong or a oil drops right when I am putting together and I end up with a leak. So I am not a big fan of RTV/ Goo gaskets. My Dana80 calls for a goo gasket per Ford but I found a real gasket for the Dana80 for a Dodge that works and no leaks and mind you I am running a chrome dif cover and I didn't want goo oozing out all around it. It just looks so unproffessional using RTV. I think the reason the factory uses RTV from the factory is it is cheaper and faster on a production line.
I had a boat this spring that had engines with cast oil pans that called for cork gaskets and have weird dip stick tube set up that was different on each engine. I called Moroso and they set me up with part #'s ordered them ordered them from Jegs. They came with new bolts that would not work with the cast pan so had to figure out what bolt length I needed and get new bolts. And on this boat the engines had to have the rear windows removed and the engines went in though the window openings so there was NO way I was going to want to pull these engines again due to an oil leak. Trust me when I say the USCG is real funny about oil leaks even in the boat. There are many other cases that Moroso parts have saved my butt.
Now as far as the RTV/ Goo goes I know the factory and many guys have very good luck with it. And maybe it is me but almost everytime I do a RTV gasket something goes wrong or a oil drops right when I am putting together and I end up with a leak. So I am not a big fan of RTV/ Goo gaskets. My Dana80 calls for a goo gasket per Ford but I found a real gasket for the Dana80 for a Dodge that works and no leaks and mind you I am running a chrome dif cover and I didn't want goo oozing out all around it. It just looks so unproffessional using RTV. I think the reason the factory uses RTV from the factory is it is cheaper and faster on a production line.
#13
I want to keep this thread alive just a little longer rather than starting a new thread.
I see 2 good points here. One, I agree with 350-6, the 7.3 pan was not designed to use a gasket. An oil pan designed to be sealed with a sylicone sealant tells me the sealing surface on the oil pan needs a hard surface to seal against. Which makes sense to me because the international sealant needs time to cure and stiffen up. It seems the oil pan sealing surface is not strong enough to to keep its shape on a softer surface like a gasket which will "crush" more than the International sealant will. If Moroso were to design an oil pan to be used with their gasket, then I would think it would change everything and work well.
The second point is Moroso does have a lot of quality in there gaskets. Maybe they figured out the strength to crush formula that matches the Internationals' sealant.
I work as a field mechanic in an oil refinery working on many different types of machinery. I totally get that you don't change what works well, but you can make a change as long as the parts work well together. Personally I'd rather go with the International sealant but if this gasket proves itself I'd consider it. So if anyone has used it for any length of time please let us know the results, good or bad.
I see 2 good points here. One, I agree with 350-6, the 7.3 pan was not designed to use a gasket. An oil pan designed to be sealed with a sylicone sealant tells me the sealing surface on the oil pan needs a hard surface to seal against. Which makes sense to me because the international sealant needs time to cure and stiffen up. It seems the oil pan sealing surface is not strong enough to to keep its shape on a softer surface like a gasket which will "crush" more than the International sealant will. If Moroso were to design an oil pan to be used with their gasket, then I would think it would change everything and work well.
The second point is Moroso does have a lot of quality in there gaskets. Maybe they figured out the strength to crush formula that matches the Internationals' sealant.
I work as a field mechanic in an oil refinery working on many different types of machinery. I totally get that you don't change what works well, but you can make a change as long as the parts work well together. Personally I'd rather go with the International sealant but if this gasket proves itself I'd consider it. So if anyone has used it for any length of time please let us know the results, good or bad.