Hi guys,
I've a 2006 f250 6.0l, 4wd, automatic transmission. The lines going from the right side of the transmission to the external filter housing developed a leak. I bought the new lines assembly, they come together, got the two fittings off the tranny side but I'm having a bear of a time trying to get the side with the quick disconnect fittings off the external filter housing. I bought the Lisle #39660 tool specifically made for the coupler. I've inserted the tool into the fitting on the filter housing, the line still won't come out. Any ideas, help, advice that can steer me the right way please. I don't know what I'm doing wrong that is preventing the lines to come out. Also, if I cant get these out, do I have any other options or am I in for buying a new inline filter assembly with new hoses coming out of the other side? Please help. Thanks in advance.

 

Drove me nuts also when I replaced my radiator. I ended up making a tool out of a sliver of sheet metal. It worked but it was a pain. The Lisle tool I bought first was useless.
I'm sure there is a better way and someone will chime in, but in a pinch the sheet metal worked.

 

Thx for the reply... I'm finding the Lisle tool to be kind of weak. I'm trying to insert it but it doesn't want to go in all the way without distorting. How much force is required to actually pull the line out while the tool is in the fitting? I'm finding too that the tool is working its way out while I'm trying to wiggle the line out. Would putting some heat to the fitting make it go easier? IDK?

 

Very little force really. Far flimsier than I expected. It was more about even pressure than brute force. The tool I bought did not go deep enough.

 

Is there any advice you can give me to make my own tool out of sheet metal? I'm not a fabricator...probably use tin snips?

 

Before you go to far you may want to use some penetrating oil
to soak the debris and then some cleaner to slush it out of the
fitting. They get full of road grime and that makes they stick
or not let the tool slide in all the way. How ever you look at
the tool can't hit the points it needs to and you can't get
the line out.

It may help to use that little straw that comes with the spray cans
to blast some of the junk out.

Thank push the line into the socket as you insert the tool
then pull back.

Sean

 

Thx
That makes sense...my truck is a salt truck and there is crap there. I did try to spray some lubricant there but I'll try to be more diligent in cleaning the area with spray and compressed air, hopefully that helps.

 

Anything to work that grime loose. Sand+Salt=Sticky Grime
Give it a good spray and let it sit. The with the straw try to flush
before you hit it with the air. Be careful and don't get that into
your eyes. Safety glasses are a must have.

Good luck and please post back.

Sean

 

I will post my results tomorrow. I've also got a replacement filter and fresh oil too. Hopefully I'll have better luck tomorrow. Thanks.

 

Bought an Assenmacher #8023 to disconnect the lines from Radiator. The Lisle tools locally stocked did not work for me. In the end I did not have to pull the Radiator, so haven't used the new tool yet. It does appear to be the correct size to disconnect the lines. Sean's advice on cleaning sounds like really good advice to me. Bought the tool off the internet, no one locally had this particular one. Paperwork on packaging only mentions 2005 models, but in researching several mentions that it works on 2006 also. So not positive until I actually remove the lines.

 

Hi guys
Still having trouble getting the lines out...frustrating
I ended up cutting the two going into the filter housing so I could get a better grip on them and to facilitate removing the from the truck. I have the ends moving and spinning freely in the fittings...the tool won't unlock them. So, I decide that I'll try to put a wrench on the fitting, remove it from the filter housing thinking I'll have better luck on a bench...it cracked in half; and it is still stuck and won't come out. Yup, this has turned into a nightmare...I have to laugh, I got no hair to pull out. So, I'm thinking of ordering a new filter housing and the two other lines coming out of the filter housing and replacing everything with new stuff...now I'm worried about the fitting going into the rad...I don't want to buy a new rad if I don't have to. That fitting doesn't look in good shape either. Was there something wrong with a regular nut and coupling to connect these things? IDK. That is where I'm at right now and going to call it a day.

 

sorry for your troubles! Don't expect relief from a new radiator. My aluminum replacement radiator came with new fittings to accept the tranny lines. Wonderful except the casting of the new fittings was too tight to actually allow the tranny line nipple to fit!
Ended up opening the fitting up very carefully with a dremel.
Good luck!

 

I just got done replacing my lines also. I had the Assenmacher tool which does work but with all the rust and grime the lines did not want to come off. I pulled the filter cartridge housing off the truck. The problem I had was the tool would not go deep enough in the fitting because of rust and grime even after using penetrating oil for days in advance. The quick connect fittings fill unscrew from the housing. So pulled them out and put them in a vise and work the tool more by pounding it in the fitting. It was not easy. You can also tap the tube from the back side and push it out. I ended up snapping the threads off one of the aluminum quick connect fittings. I was in a pinch and needed the truck finished so I improvised. I ended up using #8 AN fitting with a o-ring seal that had threads that matched the fitting. A good hydraulic hose place should have that. I then used a #8 AN crimp on style hose end with 90% bend. Since this was a machine style crimp end I used a cut off wheel to cut off the crimp portion which exposed the barb fitting. My new lines had a small pc. of rubber hose then the quick connect fitting. So I cut off the male quick connect end pushed the hose on the barb and used a clamp. If I was to do this again. I would remove both quick connect fittings and convert to hose barbs and use 1/2" rubber hose all the way back. Mainly since you cannot get the new metal hose under the oil pan without lifting the motor. I had to cut and splice the new metal lines just to the back side of the oil pan. Hope this helps

 

I appreciate your responses and advice and sharing what you guys have been through. I ended up ordering a new filter assembly and the two lines coming out of the filter assembly too...should be in tomorrow. I was wondering how tough it would be to reinstall the lines from the transmission to the filter assembly...at this point if I have to cut and splice with a rubber hose I will do that too. I'm frustrated but I have to get this truck going again and lifting the motor to run the lines for me is not an option. I don't know what kind of pressure those lines see...hopefully with a strong hose and double clamps it'll hold...if I have to go that route. I was planning on trying to get that one line that goes into the rad fitting out hopefully without too much heartache...but if I can't then that piece will be spliced too. Salt and neglect destroys this stuff. The previous owner didn't rustproof and it shows. I try to deal with it the best I can and hope for the best. This is proving to be one of the tougher things I've tackled on this truck. I'll post my results when I finally get there.

 

For the splice on the hard lines I used a 1/2" compression splice. It was just the brass type. You may be able to find the fuel injection style splices made out of steel but 1/2 may bethe problem. Most are 3/8. I cut the hard lines just to the back side of the oil pan. Feeding the lines underneath was not easy. There is also a bracket holding the lines on the bottom side of the motor. It is mounted to a stud. To access this use have to go through one of the holes on the frame cross member. It is hard to see or find. I cut my old lines 1st then pulled them out which again was not easy. It was either a 10mm or 3/8 stud. I think I had to use a 1/4 drive deep dish socket because the angle was not straight on. I did not reinstall the stud on the new lines. There is also a metal pc. on the stud that holds the wire harness. But it is not wrapped around it. Hope this helps