I have a 2001 Escape 3.0 l 6 cyl. She stalls or almost stalls every time I fuel up. I found if I turn key but not to start, it only severely sputters and usually doesnt stall. Replaced EVAP canister (and all but dust separator inside), fuel pump, egr valve, pcv tube, iac, upper gaskets, valve cover gaskets, seals, spark plugs, fuel/air filter, evap purge valve, fuel filler cap, ftp sensor, all ignition coils, checked for clogged fuel filler neck, fuel/vent hoses from/to evap canister...nothing worked. There is a hose I cant get to that ends unattached just past fuel tank and near fuel vapor(?) "tee" under car. Seems to come from fuel tank. What is it? Just an overflow vapor hose? Should it be attached to something? Anyway, I suspect fuel vent hose or valve on top of fuel tank since my options are limited now. Have it running great (except this issue) with 260,000 miles so really don't want to spend mucho $$. Thoughts? Forgot - no codes thrown. Thanks!

 

I do not understand what you do to get into the stall condition. If the ignition switch is worn, it will or may require you to put the key into a 'just so' position for the engine to run.
If the engine does not want to run after a restart, it may be the switch, or it may be other sensors, such as coolant temperature, incoming air temperature, fuel pressure, or ??, all of which muddle with the fuel/air ratio.
Please explain what happens when you get the 'stall after fueling'.
tom

 

Sorry - wasn't clear, my bad. After fueling and then starting the engine, it stalls. When turning the key to "acc" one or two times prior to starting it seems to help SLIGHTLY (doesn't stall but still has severe stuttering).

Any ideas on the open ended hose (just peeks out from above fuel tank)?

I hesitate to drop fuel tank for fear of shearing off bolts - they are very corroded.

 

If you could get a pic of it I could help, no hoses should be left unplugged, does it fill with gas fine or does the pump constantly kick off. Sounds like a classic fuel pump issue, but you changed it though, was it changed for this issue?

 

I would pull the steering column apart, the plastic pieces anyway, and take a look at the actual ignition switch. If it is a positional thing, the switch may be worn or coming apart.
On the other hand, if it seems the fuel is not 'getting there', then I'd take a look at the fuel pressure sensor and the fuel pump driver. The sensor indicates the pressure in the fuel rails and the driver commands the pump to modulate the pressure. Both yack to the computer which makes the ultimate pressure desired decision.
I make the assumption that the relays are in good shape. Do you hear the pump run when you turn the key from OFF to ON? I don't listen regularly, but think it will run for 3-5 seconds at power up, and then shut off.
You can gain access to all the stuff on the top of the tank by opening the access panel under the rear seat bottom cushion on the drivers side.
tom

 

I will try to get a picture of the open hose, she fills up fine. Will post with picture soon. Thanks

 

She starts fine on every occasion except after fueling, so probably not a positional or relay problem, correct? I can't access or see the hoses as they originate from the fuel tank and struggle to access FP sensor (replaced). I will try to check other stuff, thanks.

 

Sorry - I tried posting pictures but I think I have to be a registered member for at least 10 days before posting pictures to albums and at least 5 posts....I will post as soon as I am able to.

 

just use photobucket and its instant

 

The reason I suggested removing the access panel is you can see if there is anything disconnected on top of the tank. Potentially where the loose hose end connects.
Do you fill the tank 'full' or stop when the automatic cutoff works? I guess you could be feeding excess fuel to the intake somehow, such as through the vapor canister lines, if you fill the tank fully.
Does the stalling occur after making a stop while traveling or just after fueling?
tom

 

Stalling occurs only after fueling and do not "top off". More...once she stalls, she will start again but with lots of stuttering and after waiting about ten seconds can drive off (very embarassing).

BTW - just tried Photobucket - hope I did it right. How do I make it available to show here?

 

Try cycling the ignition key from OFF to ON to OFF four or five times. If the fuel pump depends on slight pressure in the tank to keep fuel in the fuel line leading to the injectors (due to a flaky check valve), cycling the key will power the pump each time for a short period and re-fill the fuel line. Then start up. If it runs without stumble or stutter, you have a pretty decent chance that the fuel is draining back into the tank when the cap is removed.
You could do this test without leaving the parking lot. Just remove the gas cap, count to five thousand and eleven, and put it back. The count is to simulate how long the cap is off, for the fuel to have time to drain. You could time it next time you fuel up to know, but an approximation would work, too. IOW, just take the gas cap off, go back inside for a cup of coffee, and come back out and start up. If it stumbles you know the cap has something to do with it. If you repeat, but cycle the key, it is a slight verification that the fuel is draining back. Ya think?
tom

 

When you turn the key to ON the pump runs for 3-5 seconds and stops. If you leave the key ON and the fuel is draining back into tank won't the pump restart? You could do this with the cap ON/OFF.

The catch is there are chimes, etc. going on when the key is left to ON but they do stop on their own after a bit.

 

The pump does not run again after the first 3-5 second long cycle. As I remember it, the ECM checks for either oil pressure or engine running {ignition cam/crank pulses?} before it re-energizes the pump.
The first run is to 'help' in the case that the system has gotten low on pressure from sitting as it insures there is fuel under pressure in the fuel rail to feed the injectors.
If the gas tank cap is removed, if there had been residual pressure from evaporation, it would be released. With a few minutes time, fuel could be draining back from the pressurized system leaving the engine to starve on start up. Could be, no?
tom

 

Is there a Schrader valve that fuel pressure can be checked?