Hey guys I have decided to bite the bullet and get a reman long block.

351 W HO for the 85 Bronco. I have had good luck with Jasper back in the day
but have no idea where to get one in the Seattle area anymore.
So that is the question for now. What does Napa use now?

What outlet in the Seattle area has a reman long block, preferably a Jasper?
Does Jasper have a site? Guess I can Google that myself when I have a
bit more time.

The sites I have checked so for want around $1500.00 for the HO. I can live with that. Shipping up to me on the barge will prolly be $200.00 or so.

Any help at all is appreciated.

 

If you're buying a longblock get a '94/95 spec instead.. higher compression, better, heads, and a factory roller cam.

 

Ditto, no point in buying a flat tappet 351 when these can be had. Really the HO 351 had nothing extra besides the cam (maybe, that isn't a given in a reman motor) The Napa here was offering reman long and short blocks by City Motor Supply out of Dallas Tx. I bought one ten years ago for my 89 Ranger. .040 over roller short block, tossed the stock cam (it wasn't the F4TE roller although I asked for a 94-97 short block)and tiny *** timing set, replaced with a B303 and an O.E. double row, roller chain set. Checked all the torque specs, the rods were torqued to 60 ft lbs (25 ft/lbs is max on stock rod bolts) Replaced the rod bolts one by one (yea, the short block was assembled at the time) with ARP's. Topped it with ported E7's. Beat on that $350 short block for three years, with almost daily floggings to 6500 rpms. I then swapped heads and intake to Canfields and a Vic Jr. After 4 months of punishment, the block cracked the #4 cylinder wall midway in the bore. Still ran but leaked water. The rotating assembly never quit. I think I got my $350 worth out of it. Sold the rods and pistons later for $75. The block went to scrap. Think I reused the crank in another motor. No matter what brand you buy, check the torque values timing set quality and cam specs before adding everything else.

 

Great guys. This is the info I need. It's been a long time since I have done anything
like this. Used to do it everyday as the owner/operator of three auto/marine repair
shops. But that was 20+ years ago and another life/wife. Single now,
what's up with that?

So a mid 90's LB with roller cam: I like that. Now my questions are.
Where can I order this with a like RV(?) cam? Remember this is for a Bronk that will see a lot of low end use. Off road hunting in 4X4 crawling
over ditches a lot in low range. Slow and easy. And some towing as
well as deap snow winter trips to town. Can I recommend a cam
when I order it? If so what cam.

Next is a timing set: The stock ones are retarded, literally. In this set
up is what we used to call a straight up timing set still an option?
I have a new Napa timing set here already for the 85 HO but I am thinking I can do some better with an aftermarket straight up set.
True/False? also a new water pump here for the HO. I assume I can use
it on the new long block?

Next: As the HO is carbed it has a mechanical fuel pump run off the
cam. How is this going to affect this swap? Will the mid 90's LB have
a place to mount it? Or I guess I would use my timing cover and fuel
pump eccentric off the HO? As I would like to stay away from an electric
pump if we can.

That's all coming to my mined tonight guys. Thanks for helping me put this together.
My Bronk is in great shape, No Rust at all anywhere. She is tight and solid. Engine even runs great. Butt it has a bad head gasket or a crack somewhere.
It pushes coolant out the rad cap, water pump seal and keeps popping
heater cores. And getting worse. No coolant in the oil and no oil in the
coolant. I need it dependable in this remote area so I only want to fix it
once and hopefully with your help do it right the first time. I could R&R
the head gaskets but that may not fix it. A LB would I would think.
Again thanks for helping Guys.

 

Hey Guys Allen (gator88) gave me this info

Jasper Engines & Transmissions in Seattle WA, 98148, phone# (800) 827-7455 | Fave Central Community

So when we figure out exactly what I need to order I will try them and see if
they will do the cam and timing set on the reman LB and get a cost.

I am so ready to do this. I can already smell the new Ford Blue paint burning off.
I wonder if the crank is different between the Standard and auto trans? Or are they
both machined for a pilot brg/bushing? I have a C6 but will some day change that
out to a 5 speed manual when I can find one used I can afford. Like a whole F150
to part out.

 

Well that's just it, if you can get this mid '90's spec motor it'll have a good RV cam in it.. it's very close to the Mustang HO roller cam with 10deg less duration on the intake side.

Only on smog era motors, all the EFI motors were timed straight up.

Water pumps only depend upon the timing cover used in that they must both be designed for the same rotation, the blocks never changed in this regard so either cover will bolt up just fine. This also leeds into your next question nicely..

Yes you have options there, the EFI timing cover has no place for a mechanical pump but you just need to bolt the eccentric to the front of the timing set and install a mechanical pump timing cover.

 

Thanks for the info Conan. Looks like I am ready to make some calls in the morning.
Anything else I have yet to think of?

 

Two things to add: One, that 85 Stang waterpump is a reverse rotation that fits a std rotation timing cover. It works, but apparently Ford thought it needed improvement (on the 5.0, your 351 will need it even more) so they revised the coolant port layout for the 86-up engines to match the different rotation and circulation of the pump passages into the block. That may not be a problem in Alaskan weather. Next is the timing set, if the alignment dots are in line with the cam dowel and crank key, this is a "straight up" timing set. I personally have never seen a retarded set. I think the cam's were ground with the retard built in.

 

Purchased a 68 created 302 long block from S & S engine remanufacturer out of Spokane Washington; this was over 7 years ago, decided to go with them because they offered a 7 year, or 70 k mile warranty. They have since merged with S and Jones rebuilt engines and now called S & J engine manufacturer. The 65 is the family work horse and over the years periodically checked the compression and found all cylinders remain within 5-10 % difference. Couple months ago, at approx. 30 K, had to replace the lifters because one of them was not so flat anymore. Rather than deal with warranty issue, not sure it would apply on a 'do it myself' install, and/or cost of shipping, decided to buy a cam and lifter kit and had the truck back on the road in no time. Decided to go the S & S route because, at the time, I needed a quick fix and found the created engine (shipped) was just as cheap, if not cheaper, and the engine was delivered to my home in less than a week. Also found majority of the auto parts store created engines had a limited warranty??

 

I am not sure what your saying here about the pump.

 

The 85 Stang pump is a reverse rotation pump that fits the std rotation timing cover. It's coolant doesn't circulate as well as the revised pump and timing cover Ford started to use in 1986. That may not be a problem seeing as you're in Alaska, with the colder climate. Might be a plus there in winter allowing the engine to build more heat.

 

That would need a serpentine belt to reverse right? I don't have that.
Although the 94/95 does? But am I to understand that everything from
the 85 block will bolt to the roller block? So the new pump I have will
be right for this? As will everything else?
I also understand now that the timing set on the roller will be right?
And I don't have to worry about changing it? But should I order the
roller with a different cam? If so what Cam? I hope to add headers as well.
Any recommendation on them? I don't need a race engine. But I definitely
don't want or need a smog pumper either. There are no smog checks here
at all and won't be in my life.

So if ya all think I have it covered let me know and I will call a couple outfits
on price.

 

You will need a serpentine setup to run that pump. All the reverse pumps require a serpentine setup. Timing sets are interchangeable from about 1965 to present for small blocks. (there were pre 65 or so sets that had spacers behind the cam gear, or thick and thin offsets, but those are long gone) The stock cam that comes with the roller 351 is a good piece, it's basically an "RV" style grind (256/266 advertised duration, .422/.445 lift, 116.5 LSA) Now, that said, always pull the cam out of a reman engine and measure the lift to verify it's the correct cam for that application. Reman builders have a bad habit of just throwing any cam in any engine. Ford used 4 basic hyrdaulic roller cams in production: base, F4TE, HO and Cobra. (these 4 all had different lift specs, so it's easy to check with a dial caliper by measuring the lobe lift)There were about 4 variations on the HO grind in that mix, but the basic specs stayed pretty close to the same. Anything from an 85 will bolt onto a roller block, except for the oilpan on a 351, the rear radius is different from a 302/5.0

 

So I will need an oil pan for the 95 Roller? The 85 pan will not fit?

 

You will need a 351W oilpan, no matter the year. 302's and 351W's use different pans because of the rear main cap and the radius of the pan seal is different between the two engines.