Direct us to this fix thread please!

 

My 4wd linkage is broken. And now I'm also stuck in 4 low. Any ideas to fix this

 

Vise grips and manually move the lever yourself, mine just broke a month ago, it's an expensive part about $250

 

UNMines Been broken. But now it won't budge from 4 Low

 

It's a PITA but it worked with vise grips for me and moving the lever manually at the case

 

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...er-repair.html

 

There is one difference in the body lines on a 97 F250HD's /97 F350's than the 96 and earlier. It's on the doors. 97 models have a small detail at the bottom of the door, it's a body line that runs the length of the door, about a half inch up from the bottom. 96 and earlier models don't have this.

 

September of 95 that added body line showed up

 

A couple points of clarification-
There were no model year 1998 F250/F350's, other than the aforementioned light duty F250's (really an F150 with 7 lug wheels).
If you have a 97HD F250, just order parts for a 96, or do it by VIN (better)
The only difference I'm aware of between 96 & 97 is the addition of the words "Heavy Duty" to the nameplates.

 

I have a 97 with 5.8l and E40D. And have been chasing around the trans shifting issues described for several years. Changed the VSS in the rear, cleaned and do-electric greased all the connectors between the dash and cluster etc. Even sent the cluster out to a shop to have the PSM checked, which it did check out OK. It was typically from a stop and the speedo would not move when accelerating, then jump erratically all while holding the trans in first. I'd smack the dash and all would go normal. I ended picking up a junkyard cluster and change the speedo/ PSM, also gained about 10k miles as the odometer is part of the equation. From what I gather the entire trans control is based off the PSM in the odometer circuit board. Since he change no issues.

There are many electrical gremlins in this vintage.

Right now I'm chasing either a bad ground or corroded connection for the front fuel pump. The tank reads way past full up to 1/4 tank and above, and periodically moves to the correct position. When it does so and the truck is sitting idling you can watch the gauge twitch, and the engine Mis-fire or hitch. Rear tank is fine.

 

Yes, thats the size, but no rubbing that I can tell. I'm running Cooper AT load range E tires. When its time to change tires again im considering going back to the "pizza cutters" just to see if i can squeeze out more gas milage. Not a huge difference in size though.

 

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1003682

There are many threads on the issue, some better than others. Basicslly, the rear wheel wells hold water and salt in the winter and completly rust through before poking out the paint to tip you off. You can drill holes to allow them to drain, but most trucks in the salt belt will be too far along and will require body work.

 

What have you chased so far? Same issue here with the front tank, can you clean the connections/grounds without dropping the tank?

 

Depends. It's possible to get at the top of the tank with your hands but can't really see to work. I just run mine dry and drop the tank. Only two bolts holding the straps and it's not heavy empty. (My bolts are new so...) I've cleaned and used dielectric and no better. I am, I think, resounded to getting a new pump / sending unit
If I'm not mistaken the sending unit is low to high resistance reading so more resistance raises the fuel needle. I have seen the sweep arm on a sending unit completely eaten through where it contacts the resistors so I suspect this may be a cause
The fuel starvation/ engine misfire (hiccup) issue is definitely tied to this as the needle jerks toward E when the misfire occurs.
I don't see chafing or broken wires. I suppose you Could try swapping wire leads from front to rear tanks to prove out if it's wiring or after the connector, but that seems to be a lot of work with the bed on and I have no idea of the wires are long enough- prob not

It's plow time so I'll be investigating further come spring , but for now my next remedy is the pump/sending unit assy

 

The body line will be a pain to find new doors when I go to replace the doors in a few years so great knowledge to have thank you. I have been ordering parts for the truck by model year 96. Two instances have made me do this. 1) the first VSS I purchased was for the LD 250 in 97, 2) the first outer tie rod I bought was also for a 97 LD so now I'm just ordering 96 to eliminate having to return items or take them off and bring them to the store with me.