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Is there a difference in the HPOP reservoir configuration on the 1st generation 7.3 powerstrokes vs ours? I have never done it either but its was always the 95-97 models that I heard this to be an issue.
Yes. The early designs as well as the early SD design didn't have the screen so it actually possible to pump nearly a whole quart out of the reservoir and front cover if your tube was long enough. Most SD reservoirs have the screen so a fair amount of oil is inaccessible.
Keep in mind that we all are throwing out perfectly good oil everytime we change anyway (unless you are running for extended intervals in the 15k-20k range...) So, it seems a bit silly to go through all that effort just to extract oil that while 'old'...is still just fine.
Lastly, it is actually possible to do more harm than good by messing with that reservoir. Aluminum threads are not designed for repeated removal and installation events so the risks of stripped or damaged threads is pretty high. Another possible risk is getting a tiny bit of dirt or debris (such as a little chunk of o-ring or aluminum thread) down in the reservoir. If that happens and gets stuck in the IPR then it could make for a very bad day. I have seen it happen before.....
Hey Trey, Your probably making fun of me because I made it sound like it was a must, LOL. I do mine every other oil change just for comfort, to be honest with you guys I'll probably not do it any more cause I do have to agree with you as it is a waste of time however my E99 does not have the screen so I can get down deep. I just know that a good buddy of mine who also owns a 7.3 works at Caterpillar and Caterpillar did design the Heui pump and he told me that it was a must do when I first bought my 7.3 back in 2003. I guess thats what I get for being gullible. I think I need to call him to see if he's still doing it… I bet he's not!
I wasnt making fun of anybody (except maybe Bill). Its just that many people have been fooled by his antics in the past, and this is such a big one. I felt it would do some good to dispel the myth that if you do not change the HPOP oil it will turn to sludge; it is just simply not true.
In the video I make it seem like its totally stupid to change it, and perhaps that attitude is a bit harsh. I wont change my HPOP oil again, but there is no harm I suppose (if done carefully as needed as pointed out by Shake-n-Bake) in changing it to get that extra quart of clean oil.
If you do go this route, I recommend putting new oil directly into the HPOP, in the amount of dirty oil that you removed. This prevents dry starts on the HPOP.
Again, this was simply to debunk Bill and his crack pot methods and show people that, in fact, you do not HAVE to change the HPOP oil. But if you want to, go right ahead. This is just in the interest of full disclosure.
I was just playing around, I wouldn't care if you did all my friends do for working (playing) on my truck so much. I have to agree Mr. powerstrokehelp seems to be a little to intense in his videos I think one of them was "I will slap the ***** out of you if you don't change the coolant cap every oil change." Or something like that. I do have to agree that if you have not in 50k miles it may be time. I just think it's funny.
you know, if you listen to his hpop video, he DOES say, that, that oil recirculates...
He's changed his tune quite a bit it sounds like. His early video was shot to make it look like this was an item that had to be done. Now he's toned it down quite a bit and says it helps extend the life of the injectors by changing more of the used oil. Guess he got tired of all the bashing he was getting and all the ones who tried to prove him wrong based on his initial claims.
Better, but I'm still not a fan. I also don't believe you must change this oil to make your injectors last longer. I changed my stock injectors at 350,000 miles as preventative maintenance. Saw no improvement when I swapped in the new ones, so the old ones were still ticking along just fine. All this without changing the HPOP oil or using any magical oil additives. I'm not against lubricity additives though.
I owned my 97 from dec 96 till November 2012.
I never changed the HPOP oil until I changed the hpop in 2010 and there was no sludge/grim in the resivoir at all.
I change the air in my tires . Summer air does not do well in the winter . I also rotate my lug nuts at the same time . Don't want them to wear out ! lug nuts ain't cheep ! And if not rotated properly they will void your warranty on your muffler bearings , don't want to go through that again ! So , check your blinker fluid and lube your bumper hinges while changing your HPOP oil , and good to go !
WOW you really sound picky. How many miles do you have on your 7.3 SD? Thats way too much work for me.
I change the air in my tires . Summer air does not do well in the winter . I also rotate my lug nuts at the same time . Don't want them to wear out ! lug nuts ain't cheep ! And if not rotated properly they will void your warranty on your muffler bearings , don't want to go through that again ! So , check your blinker fluid and lube your bumper hinges while changing your HPOP oil , and good to go !
Why arent you rotating your bulbs? If you dont one might go out before the other.
I change the air in my tires . Summer air does not do well in the winter .
Wow...just wow. I can't believe some people still buy into that old wives tale. I thought we debunked that internet myth a long time ago, n'est-ce pas?
Once again, for the gullible....do NOT rotate summer air for winter air in your tires! Summer air is less dense. Winter air is colder and more dense. So summer air weighs less, and provides much better fuel mileage than winter air. Think: Less rotating mass, less unsprung weight.
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