When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Very nice. Does it mount under the floorboard int he standard location? And can we see a photo of it fitted to the frame?
It is a swing pedal setup that has the master cylinders fitted on the firewall. Unfortunately, I can't give you a picture of both the clutch and brake master cylinders because the truck is torn apart for paint. Here is a pic of just the brake master cylinder:
It is a swing pedal setup that has the master cylinders fitted on the firewall. Unfortunately, I can't give you a picture of both the clutch and brake master cylinders because the truck is torn apart for paint. Here is a pic of just the brake master cylinder:
Here is a picture of the pedals installed into the truck:
What a great thread!!! Just read through it, and have a few questions (if the posters ever see this)...
You posted this on the first page, but I never saw any updates back from you. Let's see it!
I had posted it and pix in my gallery, but here is the test fitting:
In the extension: (L-R) emergency brake release; AC/heat outlet; headlight switch; column drop; ignition switch; wiper switch; 2 H/AC vents; 2 12V outlets; H/AC vent.
In console: (T-B) 2 12V outlets; heat/AC controls; head unit; pop-out cd holders; switch bank; 2 cup holders.
Originally Posted by GrifN
Very cool. I wish I knew what any of those attachments were for. Or how to weld properly, for that matter. How does that copper backup prevent blowing holes in thin metal?
When attempting to weld closed a small drilled hole (<1/2", > 1/2" a plug should be used) or on an edge, the welding heat along the edge tends to melt the edge "blowing" a hole. Molten MIG or TIG filler wire will not adhere to copper, so by backing the hole tightly with a piece of copper gives a non-stick surface to build on and also helps dissipate the heat making blowout less a problem. Welding is a skill that is almost a necessity when working on an old vehicle. I'd suggest reading my MIG welding tutorial: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-practice.html
as well as my ongoing rust repair post: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...g-try-2-a.html
The framework is emt and sheet steel, the covering is weather oxidized recycled 16 ga. aluminum that will be upholstered. Here's a shot of the framework without the covering:
Here is it with frame painted, brushed SS face insert and some of the gear mounted.
AX, I'm not seeing a hole for the shifter?? What happened to your T56?
Edit: Never mind, I see it in an earlier pic, that's way back there.
The shifter is about even with the front of the seats. Since it's a panel I wanted to leave walk space access to the back between the seats, so I stopped the console short of the shifter.
Yes, the T56 shifter is back there, but not nearly as far back as on Gary's 5650 (Ford's T5 variant with remote shifter for the Mustang) where his shifter pivot is a couple inches behind the tailshaft. I'm going to modify a Hurst short throw shifter kit for him to move the shifter about 10" forward. Here's a wider angle picture that shows the relationship between the console and the shifter with the base for the shifter boot.
The shifter is about even with the front of the seats. Since it's a panel I wanted to leave walk space access to the back between the seats, so I stopped the console short of the shifter.
Yes, the T56 shifter is back there, but not nearly as far back as on Gary's 5650 (Ford's T5 variant with remote shifter for the Mustang) where his shifter pivot is a couple inches behind the tailshaft. I'm going to modify a Hurst short throw shifter kit for him to move the shifter about 10" forward. Here's a wider angle picture that shows the relationship between the console and the shifter with the base for the shifter boot.
Ax
Are two wire conduits I see in your doors are they Part # 1738 braided from Mid Fifties? If so why two? How is the flex bend when door is all the way open? I notice a 2 " hole approx in line with each conduit, are they for the conection of the conduit in the door jamb? I bought a couple sets of those and was able to make one work for my rear panel door but when I was looking at the side doors I was thinking the bend was a little to radical,, but your picture looks like I am going to rethink my thoughts.
Are two wire conduits I see in your doors are they Part # 1738 braided from Mid Fifties? If so why two? How is the flex bend when door is all the way open? I notice a 2 " hole approx in line with each conduit, are they for the conection of the conduit in the door jamb? I bought a couple sets of those and was able to make one work for my rear panel door but when I was looking at the side doors I was thinking the bend was a little to radical,, but your picture looks like I am going to rethink my thoughts.
Mine are no name I got off ebay before MF offered them. They work just fine, but the center is small (has teflon? inner liner) so I was afraid there would not be enough room for all my wires (remote door locks/alarm, power windows, possible speakers) so I decided to put in two. (I don't think the unlined spring type would work as well). The holes are there because there is a hinge/post brace inside the door the wires needed to pass thru, so I used those holes to access the brace to drill it for the wires. I will screw plates over the holes before installing the door panels. I will also cut out and cover the raised areas around the original door handles and window crank so the panels will sit flat.
Mine are no name I got off ebay before MF offered them. They work just fine, but the center is small (has teflon? inner liner) so I was afraid there would not be enough room for all my wires (remote door locks/alarm, power windows, possible speakers) so I decided to put in two. (I don't think the unlined spring type would work as well). The holes are there because there is a hinge/post brace inside the door the wires needed to pass thru, so I used those holes to access the brace to drill it for the wires. I will screw plates over the holes before installing the door panels. I will also cut out and cover the raised areas around the original door handles and window crank so the panels will sit flat.
Thanx Ax, kind of figured that was also what you were doing with the 2" hole.
Mid-Fifties has a nut on each end so access to both side is required to instal, so cutting the inner panel will be required. Do you have the brand name of those you used? I was als thinking about using the door strike pins that Painless sells.
Thanx Ax, kind of figured that was also what you were doing with the 2" hole.
Mid-Fifties has a nut on each end so access to both side is required to instal, so cutting the inner panel will be required. Do you have the brand name of those you used? I was als thinking about using the door strike pins that Painless sells.
I really don't know the brand, they were just being sold on ebay at the time with no brand name. I tried the spring type first, but it hung up and kinked immediately (plus they made a horrible noise in operation). Mine also has 2 nuts, one to hole the tube in the door and one to hold the guide in the door post. Mine slide into the kick panel. I put them as close as possible to the inside of the door.
I think what you are referring to is the no wire contacts. Since mine control the locks, I didn't want to take a chance a weak contact would prevent the locks from operating, plus they are expensive and not very attractive. If I was doing it again I might look at some of the OEM rubber ducts in the U-pull yard.
These are the type of door looms I used Gerry, the ones I bought were from electralife or something like that, they are much better because they don't bind up and the stainless braiding don't wear.
03-02-2015, 05:04 PM
Let's see it!
How does that copper backup prevent blowing holes in thin metal?
