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Guys, I've got an idea. I'd like you guys to tell me if you think it'll work or not.
What I want to do is completely remove/disable the fuel shut off solenoid. This will allow me to run the engine entirely without electricity(It's in a manual, so I can start it by pushing it down a hill, too!)
I know that Stanadyne made some caps for these pumps with a seperate shut-off lever, but I've not seen one. So, I was thinking: What if I just remove the idle screw and allow the throttle to go way past idle until it shuts off?
I tried this, and it seems to work, but I want to know if there's any damage I might be worried about(like the damage possible when shutting off the fuel into/out of the pump).
If this is safe, my plan is going to be to use a cable(choke cable?) and a movable stopper to act as an idle back stop; high and low idle would be positions on this cable/control.
Ive considered similar. While i cant give you any info on it, id like to know how it turns out. The way things are going it would be good to have a vehicle that is EMP or similar proof.
Haha ive went so far as to envision equiping one with a pony motor.
the coil in the FSS will not be damaged by EMP..OR the Alt..IMO..May be a part available as these engines were used as stationary pumps on farm's and the like...
Ive thought about the air starter, but considering you would need a compressor, which would likely need a small engine and / or a a generator (assuming the grid is down) a pony sounds alot easier. Not to mention the GPs need juice, but you could use the pony to heat the intake.
lol de-rail over
As far as what the OP has in mind... i dont see why not, most older diesels do the same thing for kill switches any Cat ive ever been on you "pull" back on the go pedal to kill it.
The choke cable would work, the way i see it you would have it opposite of the throttle cable. Push in would be run, pull out to kill. Could have it adjusted so that part way in is low idle, full in would be high idle.
Ive thought about the air starter, but considering you would need a compressor, which would likely need a small engine and / or a a generator (assuming the grid is down) a pony sounds alot easier.
I've seen an older service truck which had a two-stage air compressor hooked up to the engine via a belt. In that case, it also had an electric clutch(like the AC pump), but if you needed to, you could eat the extra power cost and just have it locked in; valves so it doesn't build up much backpressure once the tank is full.
Originally Posted by hairyboxnoogle
Not to mention the GPs need juice, but you could use the pony to heat the intake.
lol de-rail over
If you don't have glow plugs working anyway(due to the EMP), just use a little ether. It works a treat
Originally Posted by hairyboxnoogle
As far as what the OP has in mind... i dont see why not, most older diesels do the same thing for kill switches any Cat ive ever been on you "pull" back on the go pedal to kill it.
Yup; our Bobcat works like that. I just wanted to see if there was any reason why it might damage the unit. When I tried it manually, the first time I tried to shut it off, I must have not shut it off /fast/ enough, as it got off one last half-hearted pulse and sounded kinda weird. The second time, I did it fairly quickly, and it shut off cleanly.
Originally Posted by hairyboxnoogle
The choke cable would work, the way i see it you would have it opposite of the throttle cable. Push in would be run, pull out to kill. Could have it adjusted so that part way in is low idle, full in would be high idle.
In order to do this, I'd need to build a lever/pivot - if I have the cable running straight from the cab, pulling /out/ on it would pull towards the back of the engine(higher throttle). Pushing in would push the throttle towards the front of the engine, killing it.
I don't think there's enough space in the front of the engine to route it around so the end of the cable is facing the back of the engine.
Not saying what I'll do, just what I know so far.
Also, I'm going to have to look into spring travel and the accelerator, see if it's got enough travel as-is, or will need to be modified.
I had a 76 Merz that ran that way. Pull the **** out th the first detent was run, all the way out actuated the starter, all the way back in would kill the engine. Thic car ran exactly like what you are trying to setup. I am pretty sure the choke cable will be too light, but heavier duty push/pull cables are available.
Has anyone considered cutting off the air flow? I would think it would be simple to pull choke the intake, much like the way a fire damper works. BTW this is way too paranoia self destroya for me! LOL
We had some diesel powered trenchers with an emergency engine shut off that stopped the air to the engine. It was a spring loaded valve and when the lever was tripped the valve would slam shut cutting all air to the engine. There was a big warning sticker NOT to use this for normal shutdown procedure as engine damage would eventually occur.