Wheel choices different? With a 5 bolt gm pattern the options are wide open. As far as the spacing difference, swap out the Dana 44 in the back for a gm 10 or 12 bolt.. Problem solved. You can always have the stock rear axles drilled for whatever bolt pattern you wish. With the Lexus, bolt patterns are the same as the ford explorer and many other ford 5 bolt and you can find an explorer rear 8.8 anywhere for a couple hundred bucks and some will even have discs,but the Lexus is metric. Mounting kits are made for the C-4 swap, the Lexus you will have to fab everything .

 

Man you guys are a wealth of information!!!

 

[quote=55 f350;13651179]the aerostar i believe is a good deal wider in front track width than our oe trucks and as such i wouldn't really consider it as you could have some fender clearance issues as well as other issues due to the wider track ...quote]

The Aerostar front track is 62 inches. The original front track for a 1953 F-100 is 60 inches (reference John Niolon http://www.clubfte.com/users/earl/Re...l.html#Vehicle since I can't go out and measure my truck's orginal front track). One inch on each side might be a concern for some. Attached below are a couple pictures of my truck with everything installed minus glass to show ride height and wheels in fenders. The wheels are 10 inches wide and the tires are 31X10.5s-5 inch backspace/no offset. I plan to go with smaller (7 inches or less wheel in front) wheel/combo when funds are available. Also attached are a few pictures of the frontend after paint.

The install is not a direct bolt in. You have welding (crossmember to bottom of frame rail and a plate to the top of the frame rail that the upper A arm bolts aganist) but no boxing. Still very simple. Ride is very nice compared to stock. Got the hub-hub in a junk yard for $100. I replaced all bushings which were readily available and cheap. I like the beefy crossmember but not as pretty as the MII. Budget was an issue for me and most importantly I wanted all ford parts. Detailed pictures in my build thread linked below.

 

What worries me about the Lexus IFS is the lower control arm/ball joint is still a dealer only part. Typically the aftermarket has all wear parts available after 3 years. The newest donor is going on 13 years and dealers tend to cut off replacement parts after 10 years. I'd hate to find out I can't get a part in a couple years. Deal enough with finding discontinued parts at work.

 

Texas, those tires are tall as well as wide. No rubbing?
It looks good and I like the ride height too. Do the lower control arms sit more or less flat at rest with the engine in? Any dissapointments?

 

Wolf,
Yea, I do not like the wheels and tires. I got them from my 1981 F100 donor truck. The front should be a bit lower when I get the new wheels/tires. The rear is stock suspension with axle under leafs. This will also lower when I get all the bed together and maybe 22 gallons of gas. I drove my truck around my neighborhood, which are rough back-country roads, this past weekend and no rubbing. The lower control arms at rest with engine and sheet metal (minus inner fenders) installed are 5-10 degrees (guess) lower than flat. I do not have any disappointment yet but I am not finished with the truck. I may encounter some once she is a daily driver.
Stephen

 

Im in the same boat right now.... Dont want to jack your thread I have been looking at the Hedits or the No Limits IFS is the no Limits as good of quality as the Hedits??

 

No personal exp. but I have heard better things as far as fit goes and support from Heidts. Also, check out the c-4 mount kits from flat out. They make it really easy.

 

The Lexus IFS installation i have done in my 56 was fairly easy and ticked all of the boxes for me. In other words it had all of the things i was looking for, but thats me and my particular situation.
I am in Australia where IFS kits are not available nor in my case desirable because i want RHD and most of the kits are American and hence LHD. There is one Aus kit that i don't care for.
The Lexus IFS does require some fab work, which is fine for me but may not suit some people. Picking what suits for your situation and skill/ fabrication level is important but sometimes not easy.
I am also a big subscriber to using everything possible from one donor car, hence i am using all the running gear from the Lexus, motor and box and front and rear suspension.
Parts are also readily available on Ebay or wherever.

I am moving from my home based workshop to a factory in the next few weeks, and i will have way more room to work in so my personal project will FINALLY start to make some progress again. I will post some progress pics in due course. John

 

OK, maybe the third time will be the charm? (I had the first two versions of this post vanish into cyberspace when I posted it.)
I obviously have not had any personal experience with it, but I like what I've read about TCI's newly redesigned kit. The have addressed a number of the other kit's weaknesses, especially the alignment method. They also have it on sale at 300.00 off. I don't know if it's actually an introductory sale or they are doing more efficient manufacturing? I'd give them a hard look.

 

The crown vic catches flack, but I love mine. Nice clean install. I have all new bearings, springs, bushings etc... Only have about 700 bucks in it. I narrowed mine 1.5" (crossmember and rack) to help with the width issues.

 

Looks great . How hard was it to narrow? I'm sure there will be many on here to see this works out. It's a great option with the width issue fixed.. Nice job!

 

Or just use the Lexus IFS no cutting required.

 

That's what I am doing.. Now Lexus rear or t bird...

 

Depends on which is closer to the right gear ratio, but if it's a either or proposition I'd pick the Lexus to have matching bolt patterns and geometry..