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Methods for replacing the cone of failure(aka fuel pick up)

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Methods for replacing the cone of failure(aka fuel pick up)

 
  #1  
Old 10-19-2013, 07:22 PM
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Methods for replacing the cone of failure(aka fuel pick up)

So after owning my IDI for 6 months I finally realized it had the cone of failure on the interstate. I usually always filled up before the gauge read E, which due to the sender not working very well it usually only took 10 gallons to fill it to the neck. Driving down the road it started sputtering with 6.5 or so gallons of fuel in the tank. Since my front tank doesn't work I always carry a can of diesel when I leave town so I pulled over and filled it up and was good to go until the next fuel station.

My question is, what's the best way to replace the pick up? I've already read that diesel rated fuel line with a fish mouth cut on it at the bottom of the tank will work, just getting to the tank will be the issue.

I live in an apartment so that makes removing the bed a challenge. Unless someone within an hour of Pendleton, OR has a big driveway or a shop and doesn't mind helping lift a bed.

If I can get the bed off I'll probably do the front tank too. I figure the tank selector is probably dead from cone of failure bits getting stuck in it.
 
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Old 10-19-2013, 07:59 PM
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you can get the front sending unit out with out lifting the bed if thats what is wrong
 
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Old 10-19-2013, 09:12 PM
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Should've mentioned my FSV is stuck on the rear tank and that's what I need to get to. I haven't decided how I'm going to address the FSV issue yet. Sure would be nice to have both tanks though.
 
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Old 10-19-2013, 11:58 PM
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swap the lines going to the fsv that will help you out for now
 
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Old 10-20-2013, 06:40 AM
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I removed my rear tank from the bottom and it was a bear to get to the fuel hoses and sender wires because they are so short. I then figured out I would remove my bed to install it- lesson learned.

Since you are in an apartment I would remove your bed bolts (good luck if they are rusted, I cut mine off) and raise the bed by a number of 2X4's, but keep the bed on the truck.

I was definitely more happy once my bed was off and if I have to do this again, will start with the bed.

LMC truck sells a OEM fuel pickup, looks like the sender is included for $40 and that shouldn't break the bank. Before, you had to by the whole thing for about $100.

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Good luck.
 
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Old 10-20-2013, 10:39 AM
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The hose with the V-notch seems to be the common fix. There's a member here that put a brass T at the end of the hose as a weight and as another method to prevent the hose from sucking itself to the bottom of the tank.

As mentioned above you can buy just the cone of failure itself. I found a good price at Amazon of all places. Link to it is in the second page of this thread:

Fuel Tank Sending Units
 
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Old 10-20-2013, 12:51 PM
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I used a brass compression union and a short piece of 3/8 steel line on one I did a couple years ago.

 
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Old 10-20-2013, 06:13 PM
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All great ideas. Now can you all help me remove the body on my Van, it would makes things easier, and engine repair also. Just kinden!
 
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Old 10-20-2013, 10:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Bonanza35 View Post
All great ideas. Now can you all help me remove the body on my Van, it would makes things easier, and engine repair also. Just kinden!

'Fraid you're on your own there.
 
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Old 10-21-2013, 03:35 AM
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Time to start hitting the bed bolts with PB...
 
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Old 10-21-2013, 06:45 AM
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Originally Posted by randomguy View Post
Time to start hitting the bed bolts with PB...
That's a good idea. My bolts were so rusted some of them were reduced in diameter - those broke off. Others spun in the bed. It seemed my bed bolts were much smaller than should be. The shank was held by a loose fitting bed channel and only a portion of the bed held it from spinning- if my bolts were OEM it was a poor design. Ford couldn't find these and they were $10 for a set of 8 at LMC.

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so I went to TSC and got larger grade 8 bolts, I think $45.
 
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Old 10-21-2013, 10:44 AM
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I welded mine to the bed that keeps them from turning
 
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Old 10-21-2013, 01:19 PM
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Mine all look pretty good from underneath. One of the benefits in living on the dry side of Oregon... This truck has zero rust, even in the usual places. High desert living
 
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Old 10-21-2013, 01:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Red454sedgwick View Post
I welded mine to the bed that keeps them from turning
That would have been easier for me. I didn't think about that.
 
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Old 10-21-2013, 09:21 PM
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this is what I did...3/8 barbed threaded fitting into a stainless steel shower head base with a wad of stainless steel mesh held in with a stainless steel sink strainer and than a stainless steel **** base all held together with a v band clamp and a few holes in the bottom of the **** base for extra flow



 

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