My 52 Ford F-1 Project
#17
OK, you obviously have a lot more experience than most. But realize we don't know you if you don't introduce yourself first. and there are a awful lot of people who read these posts who can't weld 10 ga steel without penetration and burn thru issues that read someone like you saying that narrowing an aluminum crossmember is easy or thinking they can narrow the rack by cutting the ends off the outer shafts and/or have no idea how to narrow one in the middle, and jump in blind with both feet to create an unsafe vehicle.
It would be better to wait until you have done it and document the process and the pitfalls (and how you avoided them) than to say something like this is "easy" before you do it.
Shortening the crossmember still affects the akerman which is not easily corrected, but maybe you aren't concerned about pushing one tire some when cornering, but it should still be mentioned.
It would be better to wait until you have done it and document the process and the pitfalls (and how you avoided them) than to say something like this is "easy" before you do it.
Shortening the crossmember still affects the akerman which is not easily corrected, but maybe you aren't concerned about pushing one tire some when cornering, but it should still be mentioned.
#18
Pretty sweet idea. I like the projects you have finished and the idea of doing something not everyone has done. It's great when people think outside the box. Sometimes the guys around here just like stock or just what they know has been proven to work.
As long as you have done the research and have the ability who cares what you do. It's your truck to do as you want with, as awesome or lame as you want.
As long as you have done the research and have the ability who cares what you do. It's your truck to do as you want with, as awesome or lame as you want.
#19
My truck is a long ways from stock, and not cookie cutter. I do concern myself with helping others have a successful build within their abilities and experience level. I assume that someone who is capable of thinking and building outside the box doesn't need to be asking basic questions, but should be helping to answer them. Come show us what you did that was different and worked and why you did it and how you solved the issues, I for one am always glad to learn, but I want to see it after it's been proven to work, not that "someone" on the internet said they did it or saw it done. if it was cheap and easy everybody would be doing it. I love the Lexus IFS and IRS suspension swap and the C5 suspension for example. I have an IRS and IFS that hasn't been done before idea that I've researched enough to verify that it would work, I just don't know that it would be worth the work, after all these things aren't sportscars, they're top heavy shipping crates. I haven't been "driven" enough to change out the fully rebuilt and dropped beam axle suspension that was on the Panel when I bought it. I really expected it to ride and handle... well, like an old truck. I was already planning a suspension swap on it as soon as I got it home, but after driving it across the country I found it rode and handled as well as my 2007 GMC Sierra and would be perfectly suited to my purpose as a tow vehicle for my race trailer as is without the extra work and expense of an IFS with marginal if any improvement. For the same reason you won't find me pushing someone with a basic set of tools, no building experience, working in their driveway, towards a IFS or frame swap.
#20
I figure by taking 2.5" out of the middle of the crossmember and rack it should fit very nicely on the frame.
It was very cheap and if I spend another $200 narrowing it... it is still only $1000 cheaper than a MII front suspension.
I looked for a Jag IFS and there was nothing around here. This was delivered to my house along with the explorer 8.8. Both of them complete including the brakes.
Even if the instant center is moved a few inches in... a few inches in terms of the 68" track width is going to have a pretty marginal effect on driving and I think it will turn out to substantially better than the completely stock suspension currently in there. complete with 60+ year old beam axle and steering box. Talk about safety...
It was very cheap and if I spend another $200 narrowing it... it is still only $1000 cheaper than a MII front suspension.
I looked for a Jag IFS and there was nothing around here. This was delivered to my house along with the explorer 8.8. Both of them complete including the brakes.
Even if the instant center is moved a few inches in... a few inches in terms of the 68" track width is going to have a pretty marginal effect on driving and I think it will turn out to substantially better than the completely stock suspension currently in there. complete with 60+ year old beam axle and steering box. Talk about safety...
#21
#22
Hey Ryan,
Looks like fun - keep us posted with pics. My only concern would be if you look down the street .. You live in a very neat housing development with a lot of neighbors. Here they leave me nice notes if my teenagers park too close to the mailbox. Hopefully your Home Owners Association looks the other way..
Looking good over there in Illinois.
Ben in Austin
1950 F1
Looks like fun - keep us posted with pics. My only concern would be if you look down the street .. You live in a very neat housing development with a lot of neighbors. Here they leave me nice notes if my teenagers park too close to the mailbox. Hopefully your Home Owners Association looks the other way..
Looking good over there in Illinois.
Ben in Austin
1950 F1
#24
F1 - 1/2 ton
R - 239 V8
1 - 1951
HM - Highland Park, MI
64101 - production number (late sequence)
It's a late 51 judging by the 52 style serial tag that you have pictured and the production number. It was likely sold in 52 and thus titled as a 52. The titling rules weren't as strict back then. My 52 Panel was registered as a 53 when I bought it. It was a late 52 and likely sold in 53. To correct the title, I took the repair manual where it shows how to decipher the serial number to the local DMV. I showed it to them. I wrote out a Statement of Fact form describing how to decode the serial number, which makes the truck a 52. They took the form and a copy of the page out of the book and then retitled my truck as a 52.
R - 239 V8
1 - 1951
HM - Highland Park, MI
64101 - production number (late sequence)
It's a late 51 judging by the 52 style serial tag that you have pictured and the production number. It was likely sold in 52 and thus titled as a 52. The titling rules weren't as strict back then. My 52 Panel was registered as a 53 when I bought it. It was a late 52 and likely sold in 53. To correct the title, I took the repair manual where it shows how to decipher the serial number to the local DMV. I showed it to them. I wrote out a Statement of Fact form describing how to decode the serial number, which makes the truck a 52. They took the form and a copy of the page out of the book and then retitled my truck as a 52.
#28
PS where in IL are you? You can add that info to your Profile in UserCP. I'm from the western suburbs, your pics look to be around there, racing at Union Grove? (can tell by the clouds...)
#29
#30
Interesting... "R" is clearly for a V8, but it shows a HP rating of 90, which IIRC is the value for the flathead 6-cyl, not the V8, and the RPM is different than my V8. That late in production they were probably gearing up for the OHV 6. Ryan, do you have any pics of the bare front frame on your truck?
PS where in IL are you? You can add that info to your Profile in UserCP. I'm from the western suburbs, your pics look to be around there, racing at Union Grove? (can tell by the clouds...)
PS where in IL are you? You can add that info to your Profile in UserCP. I'm from the western suburbs, your pics look to be around there, racing at Union Grove? (can tell by the clouds...)
NW suburbs. Byron dragway is my place although Union Grove isn't far.