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2002 F250 CCLB Build

 
  #46  
Old 10-24-2013, 09:46 AM
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Originally Posted by wizkid00104 View Post
So my buddy stopped over last night to change his oil at my house. Good excuse to relax and drink some beers. He was telling me that the last time his oil was done was 4800 miles ago at Jiffy Lube. He drained his oil and when I slid the pan out, there was less than 2 qts in the oil pan. His 2007 Camry takes 4.5 qts. It has less than 100000 miles on it and it does not smoke. He had another person change his oil a while back and the same comment was made about almost no oil coming out when drained. He had it done at Jiffy Lube the time before that too.

Anyway, we're are thinking that the $20 oil special at Jiffy Lube is cheap because they only put enough oil in to meet low level in the oil pan. I don't know if this is just at the location near us or every where, but be warned if you use them for oil changes.
My mechanic was telling me horror stories about those kinds of places. (pretty much any place that does a $20 oil change). They'll put the wrong filters on, or not enough oil. They're in a hurry, so they tighten the drain plug with an impact wrench to about 180ft/lbs, instead of by hand. Then his customers complain when he tells them that he has to replace the oil pan because the plug shears off or rips out the threads. You get what you pay for...
 
  #47  
Old 10-24-2013, 09:56 AM
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Ain't that the truth....

Running an oil plug on with an impact is just plain stupid. I only torque my lug nuts to 90-100 ftlb, 180! on a drain plug!!! I have some 1" bolts on my Ranger's radius arms and those only get tightened to 200 ftlb....
 
  #48  
Old 10-24-2013, 02:15 PM
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Well, time is money, and for those $20 oil change places they probably can't afford to spend the time torquing bolts to spec.
 
  #49  
Old 11-04-2013, 10:29 AM
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Well I picked up the F250 Saturday. The Diamond Gloss is impressive, the undercoating looks very well done, and the interior is very clean and fresh smelling.

However, things are never this easy for me... They truck was hit in the dealer's lot (or someone there cut a corner too sharp) so it has to go back to get this fixed....

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To the dealers credit, they have a very crammed parking lot and they did not give me any hassle about it. It was windy and raining when I picked the truck up, so we didn't take the walk the whole way around it. I know better for the future, but I am still very pleased with their service. I just want to be able to use the truck for things other than driving to and from the dealership

Once the paint is fixed, I will again try to get some nice photos...
 
  #50  
Old 11-04-2013, 12:30 PM
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That'll buff right out!!!
 
  #51  
Old 11-04-2013, 12:35 PM
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Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
That'll buff right out!!!
Lol. I wish that was the case. I just want to make sure it gets fixed right, because if it doesn't I'll be right back in the rust bucket again... After meeting with them today, their detail guy said it will definitely have to go to the body shop to get fixed. I am hoping a few stud welds and a dent puller will fix it. I really hope they don't have to pull that whole bed side off... then the undercoating will need redone...

It just gets me angry thinking about it lol
 
  #52  
Old 11-04-2013, 01:31 PM
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Originally Posted by wizkid00104 View Post

Lol. I wish that was the case. I just want to make sure it gets fixed right, because if it doesn't I'll be right back in the rust bucket again... After meeting with them today, their detail guy said it will definitely have to go to the body shop to get fixed. I am hoping a few stud welds and a dent puller will fix it. I really hope they don't have to pull that whole bed side off... then the undercoating will need redone...

It just gets me angry thinking about it lol
The first dent or scratch is always the worst. Since it happened at the dealer and they're fixing it on their dime they should redo the coating to for you. I wouldn't worry about it, but I wouldn't forget to mention it either. Good luck make sure you post up those shiny after photos
 
  #53  
Old 11-04-2013, 01:46 PM
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Originally Posted by 02TB250 View Post
The first dent or scratch is always the worst. Since it happened at the dealer and they're fixing it on their dime they should redo the coating to for you. I wouldn't worry about it, but I wouldn't forget to mention it either. Good luck make sure you post up those shiny after photos
Ya, I'd like to think you are right. I did mention it to them. Ideally, I am hoping they get the diamond gloss coating touched up as well. I paid for the whole truck to be done... and now a little piece won't be. I think they are going to touch up the clear coat on my hood too. There were three small spots where it was peeling and I asked them to take care of those as well.

I just need to polish up the headlights to get rid of the oxidation and I'd like to hit the plastic with a little back to black. I have owned the truck for almost a month now and I have only had it for a total of 7 days or so to drive it. I am getting anxious.
 
  #54  
Old 11-04-2013, 03:02 PM
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Darn. you have luck like I do. Hopefully the dealer will get you sorted out soon!
 
  #55  
Old 11-04-2013, 03:35 PM
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Me too. I'm just glad I bought it at a Ford dealer this time lol
 
  #56  
Old 11-04-2013, 04:16 PM
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Originally Posted by wizkid00104 View Post
I just need to polish up the headlights to get rid of the oxidation and I'd like to hit the plastic with a little back to black.
The headlight restorer will work, however i would skip the back to black. I've done it three times, and each time it only lasts about 2-3 weeks. Depending on what it is, you're so much better off just painting it black and having it be back to black permanently.
 
  #57  
Old 11-04-2013, 05:00 PM
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Thanks for the tip! No point in wasting the effort
 
  #58  
Old 12-06-2013, 06:47 AM
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I finally got the truck back Tuesday. The body shop did a great job, but as with everything in life, my joy was short lived. I started the truck up this morning and the E-brake light wouldn't go off. Master cylinder was low. But since it was raining, I couldn't tell where it was leaking. I filled it up and checked it when I got to work and it hadn't gone down much. I still have good pedal and it doesn't appear to be leaking fast. I guess that will be tomorrows project. Any hard line is getting replaced with NiCopp. I hate having to replace the lines only to know it will need done again. I am going to try and put the Cherry Bomb on too. I guess I'll see what I have time for. Hopefully I'll get some pictures up too.
 
  #59  
Old 12-06-2013, 09:27 AM
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Originally Posted by wizkid00104 View Post
I finally got the truck back Tuesday. The body shop did a great job, but as with everything in life, my joy was short lived. I started the truck up this morning and the E-brake light wouldn't go off. Master cylinder was low. But since it was raining, I couldn't tell where it was leaking. I filled it up and checked it when I got to work and it hadn't gone down much. I still have good pedal and it doesn't appear to be leaking fast. I guess that will be tomorrows project. Any hard line is getting replaced with NiCopp. I hate having to replace the lines only to know it will need done again. I am going to try and put the Cherry Bomb on too. I guess I'll see what I have time for. Hopefully I'll get some pictures up too.
Pmf makes decent ss brake lines if they're leaking
 
  #60  
Old 12-06-2013, 10:24 AM
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Good call on that. Thanks! I have never seen a company offer brainded stainless is so many colors. On my Ranger I did all copper lines, with braided stainless hoses, and brass tube nuts. I better never have a rust problem with any of the lines on that truck.

Edit: Just browsed PMF's website. They make some cool stuff. It looks leaps and bounds better than a lot of aftermarket stuff I have come across.
 

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