Of course. I am going to follow these as Bently suggested:
Changing ATF Fluid in a E4OD and 4R100 transmission | Ford Trucks
4R100/E4OD Trans Flush Procedure - PowerStrokeNation : Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum

I am going to order a case of 2.5 gallon Synthetic ATF jugs from Amsoil. I have been throuroughly impressed with their products. I have their synthetic ATF in my Ranger and have been very happy with it. Here is a study on it:
http://www.amsoil.com/lit/G3118.pdf

I amost did and I stopped myself. When I endulge too much in parts, expenses seem to sneak up on me. Right after I ordered that fitting along with several other things and I had to take the pups to the vet. $315 later, I was glad I didn't order any other parts....

She doesn't live with you yet... lol it gets worse just wait

J/K if you found a good one, its not bad. Nicole is showing me the price of weddings. Jesus.... she has found the cheapest of almost everything, but we have a lot of people to invite... so there is no way of keeping it under $10k. Just when I thought I was out of the way after buying a ring.... Our families are contributing, but we have no idea how much.

I had a Ranger 1 piece window in my closet that my parents found lmao.

I think it does have it, but I am not positive. I have the build sheet on my work computer, I'll have to check. They look the same as my old trucks front springs.

Got the rotors down to the shop this morning. They said they should not be a problem... hopfully lol.

Once it warms up a little, I will go outside and continue working on it. In the meantime pizza for breakfast and watching some top gear (UK)

 

Lucky...NH doesn't believe in holidays so I'm in class then I have to go to work but nobody will be there except me and maybe 20 other people because of the holiday weekend lol.

Yeah not yet...probably within a year or two though and at that point I can't have as much fun with my truck anymore . Oh well once I graduate i'll make enough to play again.

Thanks for the links! Ill have to follow those when I do mine.

 

Help. How do I get the rest of the sensors out of the bearing?

 

Damn.. my sensors are frozen in there I couldn't even get them out but that about needle nose pliers or something? Whats stuck just a boot thing?

 

Ya. It's the housing the coil mounts in. It broke off at the base of the sensor. I think it actually rusted through. I used PB blaster and really worked the sensors gently but that didn't go as planned...

 

So besides breaking the ABS sensors, everything else went very well. The ride has been greatly improved with the new shocks. I may even describe it as comfortable

The shop did a great job cleaning up the rotors.




I anti-siezed all shock mounting points before reassembly.







I decided to get some silver caliper paint to protect the rotor after they were cleaned up.



No perfect, but good eanough for me. To avoid any further problems, I put antisieze on the portion of the hub that the rotor fits on and I also put it on the caliber piston surfaces that contact the brake pad.



I greased the tie-rod ends while I had the brakes apart. My lower ball joints do not have grease fittings and I couldn't get to the upper ball joint fittings without pulling the axle shaft.

You can see the rear shocks were toast...



And now I get to look at this until I figure out what to do with busted sensors. It sounds like an EZ out will take out the remainder of the broken sensor. I am just debating on buying new sensors or getting the whole bearing assemblies with the sensors and then fixing the old bearings after they are removed.

Does anyone have some extra sensors they'd be willing to part with?

 

This is what I have to grease my upper ball joints. All I have to do is rotate my axle shaft until I can get this to slide on. This slides on at a 90 degree angle. It works really good. I had the same problem, Thinking why they didn't put a 90 degree grease zerk on the ball joints. I then did some research and found this at O'Reilys Auto parts.

 

Use a square screw extractor. If that doesn't work, drill out the hole.

Check rock auto or Tousley for the wheel speed sensors. Iirc they are around $40.

Sent from my Telegraph using IB AutoGroup

 

Man you love antiseize lol, looks good man!

 

Good call on that. Thanks for the pointer

I also found this in the recommended accessories. Looks kind of handy:
That's what I have been seeing in my research. Dorman sensors from Rock Auto are $48 which I can live with. Motorcraft are $140 from Tousley. The deceiving part is the 2wd ones are cheap... the 4x4 ones aren't

I am going to order a set of MAC extractors at this recommendation.
https://www.mactools.com/shoponline/...actor-set.aspx

I am typically a Craftsman guy, but I have read a lot of reviews on extractors and not to skimp on quality because you wind up with a broken extractor that needs drilled out. I am not going down that road. I've drilled hardened steel before and I won't do it again if I can avoid it.... I'll spend the extra cash on the MAC extractors.

I do. It is to me what WD40 and duct tape are to others

Worked outside all yesterday because it was beautiful out. Cleaned the Ranger out and got a better look at what is left of the drivers side floor board. The quick answer is not a lot...







I can't find replacement pans... so this should be interesting...

 

POR, Foam Filler, chicken wire, Bondo, Paint, Done lol.

 

I like where this is going.... is this how you repaired your F150????

I found these, but I am thinking it will take some effort to make them fit...
www.autobodyspecialt.com - RH198392RANGERBRONCOIIFRONTFLOORSECTION

 

Nope but probably where I'm headed, at least on the bed lol. I think I'm going to do cut out flares so I can cut the rust out then do that to the other two small rot holes that would make it fail inspection. Since she is going to be an offroad project that not a lot of money gets dumped into I really want to do it right but cant justify it if its gonna get dented and bonded at some point eventually anyway.

You could always cut any piece that doesn't fit off that panel and use it else where.

 

Probably what is going to wind up happening. The only other option I see is finding a clean cab floor at the junk yard, but I won't hold my breath.

I am torn between price and doing things the way I see as being correct. But my Ranger is a DD and you F150 is going to be the offroader. If the Ranger was offlrad only, I'd go as cheap as possible.

Oh, I talked to my buddies dad yesterday about my SD paint. He knows a body guy who does nice work for a very reasonable price. I am going to look into having him redo my roof and hood. We found more roof rust by the marker lights and he suggested repainting the whole roof to avoid blending. Same with the hood.

I am going to try and re-clear my tonneau cover just for ****s and giggles to see how it turns out.

The projects are stacking up... plus house stuff... and now Nicole is in full wedding plan mode. My new favorite oxymoron is "cheap wedding".

 

Lol no such thing as a cheap wedding from what I have seen. Unfortunately for me if I end up with my GF I have to pay everything but oh well it's worth it in my eyes.

I agree with you on that, I want to do my F150 the right way but if she's gonna get beat to a pulp panyway then wy bother putting the money in it if what you spend it on is just gonna get messed up. With your ranger do it the right way especially if its a DD. My 04 since I drive it so much I make sure everything is done right and perfect but the F150 as long as it runs and drives over stuff I'm happy lol.