1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Slick Sixties Ford Truck

66 Ford F100 Worth Asking Price

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Old 10-15-2013, 05:03 PM
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66 Ford F100 Worth Asking Price

Looking at a 66 with a 300 ci and 3 on the tree. Not running but I drove it when it was. Some body damage but nothing not easily fixed.

Needs a rear bumper and a driver side floor patch.

he wants $1700. Is it worth it?

Edit: Short bed. No serious rust.

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Last edited by Jesse Damien Revel; 10-16-2013 at 12:10 PM. Reason: Added Pics
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Old 10-15-2013, 06:50 PM
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How is the rust? If not too bad, I would buy it for fun. These things are only worth what someone would pay.
 
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Old 10-15-2013, 06:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Wolfracing
How is the rust? If not too bad, I would buy it for fun. These things are only worth what someone would pay.
Yes, I am getting the impression these aren't really that valuable.

I suppose, since I need a work truck, this could be that...
 
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Old 10-15-2013, 08:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Jesse Damien Revel
Looking at a 66 with a 300 ci and 3 on the tree. Not running but I drove it when it was. Some body damage but nothing not easily fixed.

Needs a rear bumper and a driver side floor patch. he wants $1700. Is it worth it?

Edit: Short bed. No serious rust.
Welcome to FTE

240 I-6 standard equipment, 300 I-6 optional. If the 4th digit of the VIN is: A = originally came with 240. B = 300.

All rear bumpers were optional thru 1979, so there's no way to know what it came with.

Doesn't MN use salt on the roads? Just because you can't see rust on the exterior, doesn't mean it doesn't exist elsewhere.

Look: At where the radiator support mounts to the frame rails, rear sections of front fenders, rocker panels under the doors, cab mounts, cab corners, under the floor mat at the floor pan.

Cross members, bed pan, front/side roof drip rails. Doors have drain hole slots, get clogged up, doors begin to rust out.

Use a magnet to find out how much bondo is present and be aware that crooked sellers spray undercoating underneath to "hide the sins."

OLDEST lie in the old car hobby: Ran when parked.
 
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Old 10-15-2013, 08:52 PM
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Originally Posted by NumberDummy
Welcome to FTE

All rear bumpers were optional thru 1979, so there's no way to know what it came with.

Doesn't MN use salt on the roads? Just because you can't see rust on the exterior, doesn't mean it doesn't exist elsewhere.

Look: At where the radiator support mounts to the frame rails, rear sections of front fenders, rocker panels under the doors, cab mounts, cab corners, under the floor mat at the floor pan, cross members, bed pan.

Use a nagnet to find out how much bondo is present and be aware that crooked sellers spray undercoating underneath to "hide the sins."
The truck was from Arkansas. I've run a magnet over it all - everything's the original sheet metal. Only rust is the driver side floor from a leak in the driver side window. Frame looks good. All suspect areas look good.
 
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Old 10-15-2013, 09:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Jesse Damien Revel
The truck was from Arkansas. I've run a magnet over it all - everything's the original sheet metal. Only rust is the driver side floor from a leak in the driver side window. Frame looks good. All suspect areas look good.
It's from Arkansas? How long was it there?

Post the DSO code stamped on the Warranty Plate, located on the left door face below the latch.

When decoded, city/state truck was originally ordered from will be known.
 
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Old 10-15-2013, 09:01 PM
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Originally Posted by NumberDummy
It's from Arkansas? How long was it there?

Post the DSO code stamped on the Warranty Plate, located on the left door face below the latch.

When decoded, city/state truck was originally ordered from will be known.
It was there until last year. I'll get a pic of it tomorrow.

But just assuming my info is accurate, let's talk value. Give me something to go on.
 
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Old 10-15-2013, 09:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Jesse Damien Revel
It was there until last year. I'll get a pic of it tomorrow.

But just assuming my info is accurate, let's talk value. Give me something to go on.
Cannot.

What an old rolling pile of misery may be worth in one section of the country, differs from others.

These trucks are not rare, and not all that desirable, as most people restore cars.

So, they're only worth what people are willing to pay, and considering the lousy economy, not many people are willing to pay anything.

Here in SoCal, a truck like this can be bought for cheap, usually for around a grand, running condition...with no rust. Last time it snowed in LA LA Land: September 1949.
 
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Old 10-15-2013, 09:12 PM
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Honestly, I would just about drive there and get it at that price. Here in Illinois, things are a little different. I need to do my truck shopping where you guys are!!
 
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Old 10-15-2013, 09:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Wolfracing
Honestly, I would just about drive there and get it at that price. Here in Illinois, things are a little different. I need to do my truck shopping where you guys are!!
Yeah I am getting wildly different estimations of value. Some people are saying it's barely worth 1700, others are saying I'm a stupid SOB for not getting it THIS MOMENT.

I do think I am going to buy it. I kind of fell for her when I saw her, and you know how that goes.

 
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Old 10-15-2013, 10:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Jesse Damien Revel
Yeah I am getting wildly different estimations of value. Some people are saying it's barely worth 1700, others are saying I'm a stupid SOB for not getting it THIS MOMENT.

I do think I am going to buy it. I kind of fell for her when I saw her, and you know how that goes.

Hey, welcome, Jesse! You're right, you'll get a multitude of opinions about price. If you could post pics, it would be easier to offer better opinions. Generally speaking, a relatively rust free short bed will be worth more than a similar long bed.....
 
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Old 10-15-2013, 10:13 PM
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Originally Posted by 37 Ford guy
Hey, welcome, Jesse! You're right, you'll get a multitude of opinions about price. If you could post pics, it would be easier to offer better opinions. Generally speaking, a relatively rust free short bed will be worth more than a similar long bed.....
Cool. No pics til tomorrow, and by then I may own it. Given all the info, what say you about the $1700 price tag?
 
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Old 10-15-2013, 10:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Jesse Damien Revel
Cool. No pics til tomorrow, and by then I may own it. Given all the info, what say you about the $1700 price tag?
Well, per your description, it doesn't sound like a bad price, however everything's negotiable.....

Do you know all the places to check for rust, rot, etc? How long has it been since it ran? How are the tires, brakes, and every other "wear" item that will probably need to be replaced? Just a few more things to consider in your negotiations...
 
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Old 10-15-2013, 11:12 PM
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Originally Posted by 37 Ford guy
Well, per your description, it doesn't sound like a bad price, however everything's negotiable.....

Do you know all the places to check for rust, rot, etc? How long has it been since it ran? How are the tires, brakes, and every other "wear" item that will probably need to be replaced? Just a few more things to consider in your negotiations...
I do know and have checked. Ran 6 months ago - I drove it when it did. Tires are great. Brakes are good. Once the gears are replaced it's good to drive and safely.
 
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Old 10-15-2013, 11:19 PM
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Its not as much what you pay, its what you end up having in it.

Figure out what your total investment will be, then decide if its worth it to you.

For me, I decided that my 66 F100 wasn't the truck I wanted to have for the long haul, so my cutoff is 6k. Im at about $4700 right now.
 


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