I have new brake pads and rotors put them in about 2000 miles ago. When driving slow up to 30mph i get a squeaking noise from the driver side brakes. I jacked up the truck and there is no play in the wheel bearings and i can turn the wheel easily. I hear it squeaking as i turn the wheel by hand and it happens in the same spot every time. When driving i get no shudder in the steering wheel and i always us the lower gears to keep the brakes happy and good trailer brakes. What's going on here. Hate noises like this

 

You didn't say which pads.

 

Nothing special just over the counter at auto zone.

 

I would start with the clips on each end of the pad - they sometimes get bent and will scrape. I've seen the Duralast pads squeal from the minute they were installed. Have the pads been bedded in? Are they ceramic or semi-metallic?

Bedding in process: Bed-In Instructions

 

You forgot to mention the most important part;
Was anti-squeal paste used when the pads were installed ?

 

lI don't believe in bedding in but were there anti-squeal pads on the back of the pads? Is anything touching the rotor like a rock stuck in there? Did you go through some deep mud? Is it just one wheel? Does it always do it?

Bedding in was started by race car drivers many years ago when they had asbestos brakes and when they put new pads on they abused them until they melted some material onto the drum or rotors. Most people know panic stops can glaze a brake pad so think it is actually a bad idea to "bed" them in. You are actually bedding them out.

 

I'm curious why all the brake pad manufacturers have a recommended method for bedding-in their pads when new?

 

I just did the fronts on my Ex. Performance Friction pads, took 2/1000's off to give the rotors a new surface and according to Performance Friction themselves you just want to drive it to a few moderate rolling stops to give a smooth transfer layer to the rotor. Don't slam and stop as it will cause hot spots.

As for the noise. Sounds like it could be the backing plate contacting now since your rotors may have some run out. Keys to a good brake job is to always replace the complete hardware (including slide pins), cleaning the rotor fully before the pads touch because brake grease is terrible on it, and always remember the springs on the pads.

If you get under the front make sure that the backing plate isn't scraping the rotor, may require a buddy to help. If that's not it still you may need to pull it apart. If you do you can reuse the o
Pads if you keep them in the same spot but grease and replace all the hardware. Its cheap $5 insurance....

 

Put high temp silicon on the back of the pads. I will check the backing plate. That's a good idea. The noise has stopped. I locked my super winch his and then unlocked them. Maybe they wherent compleatluy unlocked. I had drove down some gravel roads

 

I doubt that, call a brake shop and get back to us. What's the method; drive it normally? Give me a name and I will look into it.

 

It is not the pad that is of concern...it is the NEW rotor. If you are using a quality rotor then yes you need to bed them per the mfg of said rotor instructions with new pads.

If you are using cheap garbage rotors then you are right...bedding really does not matter because even with bedding them you are buying an inferior product ad will get fair life of them regardless.

 

Not buying any of it...............just drive the thing.