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Grill Guard Complete now I just have to wait on a drop of 8" channel long enough to do the bumper......Could be awhile. I may end up just having to actually buy some to get it done sooner.
before I did finished I set it up on the truck its going to look great, and thank you. I Think its pretty good, but I'm bias always nice to get compliments!
It is turning out to be one heck of a nice $500 truck! Runs well, steers well, will eventually stop well, and has all the manuals, and build sheet! Only has 139,000 miles on it too.
1. Replaced the wiper motor
2. Installed the grille bug screen/winter grille cover that I bought last fall
3. Zip tied the grille in place where the clips had snapped off
4. Replaced a half dozen of those plastic rivets that hold the trim piece above the grille
5. Finally added some SCA so I can have some piece of mind
6. Took a few pictures cuz I love my truck lol
I really look forward to it. My pickup is a little rough, I believe it to be a '90, but I will have to verify. The date tag was worn off. It is a 7.3, zf5, 4x4, SCLB, white with red interior. Interior aint pretty but I can change that eventually. Pretty solid old truck but needs some TLC pronto. It'll get the proper coolant, better battery cables, new batteries and a lift pump if it turns out she needs it. I started a thread here, asking some questions.
You can find the month, year and where it was built by decoding the VIN. If the VIN on the Title matches the ones on the truck then the Title will correctly show the Model Year. (one VIN is at the front of the driver's side dash cover where it meets the windshield). Your signature lists a 1988 f250 4x4 ZF5 SCLB 7.3 N/A IDI. I assume that's the same truck in which case it was built in either late 1987 or 1988. That's the second year of the 8th Generation design series, 1987-1991.
I see the XLT Lariat tag on the passenger side dash. It's missing on your front fenders. That's the top of the line as far as options from the factory, interior, factory tow package, springs, GVWR, etc.
GVWR and Combined weight rating (towing a trailer) will be less on the 4WD models than 2WD models, probably due to the DANA axles.
My 1987 XLT Lariat was also a California truck until it was sent from a dealership in California to a dealership in Washington State in 2010. Mine has the SAME interior color and sun bleached cloth interior as yours and the sun bleaching weakens the cloth so those seats are likely to tear on the edges if you don't put seat covers on it. Once that happens the foam will get damaged and a re-upholstery job will be more expensive because they will have to replace the foam, at least on the bottom. If you go for an expensive custom re-upholstery than all of the foam should be replaced anyway.
Other observations: Why did you replace the air cleaner? And the brake booster? Rust? That would mean that the hood to cowl seal is deteriorated, usually it splits and rain water or snow melt leaks down onto the air cleaner and brake booster, (and other areas wherever the seal is defective). Usually the seal splits and cracks.
The water leaking onto the air cleaner can then go down the intake and can cause a gigantic problem called hydro-lock if enough water gets into a cylinder and can cause major damage. It doesn't take that much water and consider the very recent and continuing rains in California and the fact that the truck is almost thirty years old. You should check that hood to cowl seal and replace it if it's defective. You can order a new one at LMC Truck Parts.
If it has been raining where you are located, go out now and check the carpeting under the dash to see if it is wet. By now (29 years) the seal in the bottom of the cowl (where your windshield wiper arms assembly is located) is probably leaking. If so and that doesn't get fixed you'll also be replacing the carpet and treating a couple of rust areas under it. From the factory that was a self leveling sealant but you have options on what you can choose to use.
In my sun baked truck that original self levelling sealant was baked on and so hard it would have taken a hammer and chisel to get it off. Even in the thinnest areas along the edges <-that's where it was leaking in a few places, water had found it's way under the edges, possibly from the sealant shrinking and completely drying out after 23 years in California. I just cleaned the area very well, roughed up the glazed top of the old seal with sandpaper for better adhesion and sealed over it.
One of the previous owners had already removed the carpet so I replaced it with a grey carpet from a 91 parts truck. I couldn't find a red carpet for an IDI automatic anywhere in my area and Grey goes well with red. For an IDI with an automatic the carpet has to come from another IDI diesel with an automatic = due to the larger transmission hump on the floor of the diesel trucks, carpet from an automatic gas truck won't fit. For a manual transmission IDI the carpeting should be the same as in the gas trucks with manual transmissions.
IF/WHEN you do that cowl seal job, after you remove the cowling (cover) use a pick of some sort to clean the dirt and debris (deteriorated pine needles, leaves etc) out from under the 'chrome' windshield trim piece, ESPECIALLY under the corners. Otherwise the edge of the cowling that goes under the trim will not slide in and fit-up properly and cowling won't fit up right or be straight.
02-17-2017, 08:37 PM
