Hi Guys,
I have a 2001 F-250 CC 2x4 with a 5.4L Auto, It is about to roll over 200,000 miles and taking it in for a tune up.
I was thinking of doing the following:

Spark pulgs and Boots. Coils were replaced at 150,000.
BG Oil flush, new motorcraft 5w20 oil and motorcraft filter (thats all thats been in the truck since new).
BG transmission Flush and possibly dropping the pan and replacing the filter.
BG radatior flush.
Pulling the rear diff cover, cleaning the gears and refilling with Royal Purple.
BG fuel/intake service.
New Battery (needs one).

Anything else that might need to be done please feel free to chime in.
Thanks
Dave

 

IMHO, I would not use any chemical flush with the oil...if you think the radiator needs to be cleaned, pull it and have a radiator shop do a boil-out on it & pressure test it...much gentler on the internals and valid on the results.

 

Thanks for the input. I'll just have the oil changed as usual and just a flush on the radiator instead of the BG service. How about the PS fluid?

 

I tend to R&R the fluid every 30K miles.

 

I've been using the BG service on my E-150 tranny since 80K, at 132K the transmission is working great the fluid always looks brand new and tranny oil temp runs at 140* F or so. My CVPI at 117K has original (works great) tranny running on Mercon V runs at 180* F. Plan on getting the BG service and then watching to see if op temp is reduced. I did not have a way to record/monitor tranny temp when I started using the BG tranny service . I did have the BG break oil done one time but it came back dirtier than it did before it went in. I took it back and they redid something but I don't trust that tire dealer. So I change my own break oil every 30K or so. Some folks claim clean brake oil dose nothing to prevent failure but in my experience I have never had a hydraulic problem/ leak on a vehicle with regular break fluid changes (and some luck), the oil is a desiccant. On the engines I use Mobile One 5W-20 15,000 mile oil but I only run it about 8K between changes. I've never had an engine failure using Mobile One oil in all the vehicles of many different brands that I've put way over half a million miles on collectively. I never let my coolant get dirty so flushing has never been an issue. I just replace the E-150 radiator at 132K and I tore apart the OEM radiator and it was clean was as whistle inside. I use Motor Craft green coolant diluted with distilled water to the recommend concentration. I've replaced one water pump on my 89 F-150 using this method. One thing to mention during service would be to clean and check your battery terminals maybe apply some anti-corrosion dressing. Fuel filter maybe in order as well. I use a Mercury Outboard product called KwiKleen on a regular bases (Techroline in a very concentrated form treats up to 72 gallons for the price of the auto parts store bottles that treats 10 or 12 gallons, very effective stuff when super concentrated in 10 gallons of fuel) which seems to have proven itself as I have had no fuel pump or injector failures as well (knock on wood). One things for sure it costs a pretty good amount of money to properly maintain a vehicle probably as much as it costs to run it into failure and then repair. I think the only advantage to really good maintained is a higher degree of reliability and by chance some money savings. Although it seems once I get the systems nailed down that need the preventive maintenance the autoworld has a way of creating other major parts to cause new un imagined expense on modern vehicles, but imho it's all good, otherwise we would still be driving Model T's.

 

Good luck on pulling those spark plugs. Most dealers near me won't do a proactive spark plug replacement on the Triton motors due to the spark plug seizing/breaking issue. They'll do one or two if you have a mis-fire but won't even quote a complete replacement because customers become engaged to spend $2k on spark plugs if the worst case occurs and they have to pull intake and heads and do the spark plug change on the bench. I live near the Avon Lake Ford plant and the Ford guys over there call the Triton the "modular motor mistake" due to the cam phasor, spark plug and coil pack trifecta. Despite these expensive repairs they can last a while though. Good luck on yours and maybe not too many will break. Scour the internet for tips first if you do it yourself. forget aboutdoing it an anhour though and alot a weekend for it. My neighbor is an ex-deisel mechanic and he was able to wrap it up in two days.

 

I just did all my plugs on the 2004 in my sig.

They all came out fine without any issues. I put in Ford Motorcraft plugs, and followed this awesome write-up by a fellow FTE member:

2004 F250 5.4L Spark Plug Change

 

I've performed plug changes on my '97 F150 5.4 and helped friends. With all due respect, the plug change isn't that bad, the toughest one to get to is the passenger side rear near the fire wall (#4). When removing and replacing the plugs DON'T USE AIR TOOLS! Hand tools only! If you use high heat serviceable lock tight it should greatly reduce the risk of blowing a plug. The #2 plug is the most common to blow. To get the plugs in easily use a piece of tubing and slip it onto the top of the plug, drop it into the hole and gently turn the tubing clockwise until it grabs thread and it threads in hand tight (remember to apply your thread locker) then snug it with a ratchet. The whole job takes me about an hour and a half. Make sure you use a magnetic socket to remove/replace the small hex bolts that hold the coil packs down. If you drop one they are a pain in the rear to retrieve. Trans fluid should be changed every 60,000 miles, and filters are relatively cheap, at 100,000 miles I switched to synthetic oil per the manufacturers recommendation, Radiator should be serviced annually, if it hasn't been and it has 200,000 miles on it it's probably time to remove it and take to the local radiator genius to have him pressure test it. He'll no doubt recommend at minimum a rebuild job. While the radiator is out this is the perfect time to replace the upper and lower radiator hoses as well as the serpentine belt. Keep the old belt behind the seat for use in an emergency. As far as the rear end goes draining and cleaning is a must,
Don't know much about royal purple but have heard good and bad so I tend to stick with a high quality hypoid gear oil. When you have the cover off the rear end it's the perfect time to inspect the axel retainer clips, with high miles it is prudent to replace them, it fairly simple and they are readily available at the dealer and shouldn't be that expensive. While you're at it check out the universal joints, if there is any play in them replace them, if not don't worry about them, if they are serviceable grease them.

 

Hi Guys thanks for all the help. I got it all done in one day at my local shop. I got everything done on my list and had new hoses installed also. Truck runs SOOO much better mileage went up also. I drive 65 miles round trip daily, 55 miles in freeway, I usually run 75+. My mileage went from 11.5-13 MPG every fill up to 15.75-16.25 MPG for about the first two month just recently in the last 3-4 fill ups my mileage went down to around 12 MPG, I am not doing anything different or using different fuel.
Well it also started to have a high pitch whine coming from the right side of the head. What dose a Injector sound like when it is going bad?

Thanks
Dave