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I am restoring a 76 Ford truck and I need to replace most,if not all, brake lines. The lines in question are 5/16(I think) anyway I always take a piece of old line to the auto parts to be sure of the proper size.
My question is, Is there anyway I can make up the size I need instead of buying the lines in different foot lengths? I have one line that is about 8 inches long. I have been told I can't use a regular flare tool, because the flare will crack. I have been told I could take the lines somewhere and have them made, but most of the lines are not in one piece now, and certainly won't be when I get them out of their rusty holders. Also the person that said I could have them made , had no suggestion as to who or where the people who make them are located.
This truck is a mini-schoolbus so pre-made lines won't be found.
Any suggestions? Thanks for all the help you guys have given me on this project!
If you use the flare tool and do a double flare you should be fine. A single flare (where the end of the tube is flared out) will not work for brake lines. A double flare uses a die that bulges out the tube and then the end is folded back in on itself using the regular single flare tool. If you get the flare tool with the dies, it will have directions and a picture can explain it better than words. That way you can take a pre-made line and cut it to the length you need. Just don't forget to put the nut on the line before flaring. For the really long runs you'll have to use unions and join two pieces together.
A double flare tool works nice for fuel lines, etc. where you're connecting to a hose. Just do the first step and create the bulge. Holds a hose real good.
Hope this helps.
Greg
p.s. On the fittings at the master cylinder where the nut has a big thread and a small line, you can reuse the nut with a new line if you can't find a replacement nut.
Last edited by macguyver; Jun 19, 2003 at 03:07 AM.
Thanks for the quick reply! Are these double flare tools easily available? I live in very rural S.E. Illinois and don't have access to good tool stores. Do you know of any sites where I could order them online? Are they expensive? Thanks
I replaced all the metal brake lines on my 78 using the pre-cut lengths. I bought a handful of the longest ones and a few short & medium ones. I bent them with the cheesy $2 bender (that doesn't work all that great) and some by hand.
The long ones (maybe 48") are only like $5 and the short ones were about $2.
If you want to make your own, go to www.northerntool.com and do a search for "flaring". I just did it and found a single and double flaring kit. Both were under $30.
I found a double flare tool at Sears ( Hate Sears, but needed the tool)
Now all I need is to find the wheel cylinders or kits and grease seals for the P-450 and I will be all set.
My .02: Do not use any unions on brake lines! They will fail!
If you fill your line, or any tube for that matter, with sand before bending, it will not crimp.
Originally posted by Ecuri My .02: Do not use any unions on brake lines! They will fail!
If you fill your line, or any tube for that matter, with sand before bending, it will not crimp.
Just a question... why would a union fail? I wasn't talking about a compression union. You need to use a brass union that is internally threaded with flares to match the normal (double) flare with the nuts on the line. It's the only reasonable way I know to run the length of the truck with only 60" max length lines available.
The sand trick works especially well if you use wet sand and freeze it after packing it in. Just have to make sure to clean it out afterward. I just use a tubing bender. Much faster and cleaner.
I have done the double flare. The better tools will clamp the line more securely while you are doing the flare. I had a problem with sliping in a cheaper tool.
Hey Mike, I picked up a double flaring tool at Sears, the question is, is this a good tool or a cheapee? Never know about Sears thesedays. I guess I will find out.
If you have trouble with the line slipping in the clamp part of the tool, try clamping the tool in a vise. Leave it hang out the side of the vise to get the flare part of the tool on. Might help.
I don't know about the Sear's tool, have not seen it. Had a thought, maybe use some powdered rosin to keep the tube from sliping. The vise is also a good idea.
I bought the tool at Sears, but was suprised to learn it is not a craftsman. It says Precision Tool or something like that, anyway it doesn't slip(yet) and seems to do a good job. I will use my vise with it when I can. Thanks for the suggestion!
Does anyone know where I can get a diagram to tell me how the brake lines should be run with a frame mounted dual hydro-vac system? The previous owner had the original lines modified to try to run one hydro-vac. It didn't work and now I am trying to figure out how they are supposed to be.
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