OK - 9" rear idntified for my F3, but do I want to use it?
#1
OK - 9" rear idntified for my F3, but do I want to use it?
With my recent F3 purchase, another rear end was thrown in with the deal. Based on input from several gurus here, we identified it as a 9" and my subsequent research has shown it may be from an early Bronco. I see using it as a good chance to put a strong rear in with 5 x 5.5 wheels and get rid of the widowmakers.
When I finally was able to get the drums off it today (never had shoes rusted to the drums before!), I have now determined that the brakes are 11" x 1.75" and am becoming concerned that they may be too small for the job. I know that most of the braking is done by the front brakes, but I see mostly 2" and greater rear brakes on these types of trucks.
Do you guys have an opinion on the suitability of this axle? Should I just stop with this axle and look for another (possibly newer) 9" rear with beefier brakes?
When I finally was able to get the drums off it today (never had shoes rusted to the drums before!), I have now determined that the brakes are 11" x 1.75" and am becoming concerned that they may be too small for the job. I know that most of the braking is done by the front brakes, but I see mostly 2" and greater rear brakes on these types of trucks.
Do you guys have an opinion on the suitability of this axle? Should I just stop with this axle and look for another (possibly newer) 9" rear with beefier brakes?
#2
#3
I don't recall you ever saying what your intended use for the truck was going to be. If you plan on using it like a modern F-350, you may want to rethink your entire plan. If what you really want is to have a nice, comfortable driver to have fun with, the 9" will be more than sufficient.
As I recall, you had that old ratio tag that simply said 3.70, which would pre-date the Bronco by several years. If your have the 5 on 5.5 axles, it probably came from a F-100 fridge. In which case, it's plenty strong for basic truck use. The brakes are the same that was used on F-100's through 1967.
As I recall, you had that old ratio tag that simply said 3.70, which would pre-date the Bronco by several years. If your have the 5 on 5.5 axles, it probably came from a F-100 fridge. In which case, it's plenty strong for basic truck use. The brakes are the same that was used on F-100's through 1967.
#4
At least one of the rear axle specialists (Currie maybe? or Strange?) offers new wider brake drums for the 9". Since you likely need new drums anyways it wouldn't be much extra. You could also do a disk conversion if you figure on needing the braking power or heat resistance (carrying heavy loads, pulling a large trailer, driving mountain roads, ???) and are doing front disks.
#5
Thanks for the quick replies:
Brain75 Bryan: - I already have a changeout plan for the front axle to go to 5 x 5.5 there as well as the rear. I agree that having all four corners the same is a distinct benefit.
52Merc Wayne: - You are right that I didn't share my intended use for the truck with the group, so here goes. This is a project truck to keep me busy and happy in retirement when that happens in 2-3 years. I want the truck to be reliable and comfortable enough that I can plan on a 250 - 500 mile journey without either breaking down or having to visit a chiropractor by the halfway point. I want a safe vehicle - recognizing the inherent limitations of that statement when it involves the 60 year old base technology we are starting with. I am not a stickler for originality while trying to achieve either of the above, although I don't want to radically (a subjective, I know) alter the looks. I like the idea of being able to get 10 sheets of drywall from the big box hardware store or a used 302 engine from the wrecker's yard in the bed. Truth is I was looking for an F1 truck when the F3 popped up and the combination of price and condition could not be ignored.
Having never done this with American iron before, I guess I'm just a bit nervous about making wrong decisions up front and having someone more knowledgeable asking me why the hell I did that (stupid thing) to my truck and not having a good answer. My long experience with restoring British cars has taught me those lessons.
Thanks for all of the input - I value it all. Now if I can just figure out which donor the axle is really from, I will commit to use it on the F3 and purchase the necessary brake parts to proceed.
Brain75 Bryan: - I already have a changeout plan for the front axle to go to 5 x 5.5 there as well as the rear. I agree that having all four corners the same is a distinct benefit.
52Merc Wayne: - You are right that I didn't share my intended use for the truck with the group, so here goes. This is a project truck to keep me busy and happy in retirement when that happens in 2-3 years. I want the truck to be reliable and comfortable enough that I can plan on a 250 - 500 mile journey without either breaking down or having to visit a chiropractor by the halfway point. I want a safe vehicle - recognizing the inherent limitations of that statement when it involves the 60 year old base technology we are starting with. I am not a stickler for originality while trying to achieve either of the above, although I don't want to radically (a subjective, I know) alter the looks. I like the idea of being able to get 10 sheets of drywall from the big box hardware store or a used 302 engine from the wrecker's yard in the bed. Truth is I was looking for an F1 truck when the F3 popped up and the combination of price and condition could not be ignored.
Having never done this with American iron before, I guess I'm just a bit nervous about making wrong decisions up front and having someone more knowledgeable asking me why the hell I did that (stupid thing) to my truck and not having a good answer. My long experience with restoring British cars has taught me those lessons.
Thanks for all of the input - I value it all. Now if I can just figure out which donor the axle is really from, I will commit to use it on the F3 and purchase the necessary brake parts to proceed.
#6
If it has a tag on one of the carrier bolts, there will be a code on it that will narrow down what it came out of. Here is a link to the codes:
Ford Rear Axle Assembly Identification - Page 01 - FORDification.com
Ford Rear Axle Assembly Identification - Page 01 - FORDification.com
#7
Thanks for the quick replies:
Brain75 Bryan: - I already have a changeout plan for the front axle to go to 5 x 5.5 there as well as the rear. I agree that having all four corners the same is a distinct benefit.
52Merc Wayne: - You are right that I didn't share my intended use for the truck with the group, so here goes. This is a project truck to keep me busy and happy in retirement when that happens in 2-3 years. I want the truck to be reliable and comfortable enough that I can plan on a 250 - 500 mile journey without either breaking down or having to visit a chiropractor by the halfway point. I want a safe vehicle - recognizing the inherent limitations of that statement when it involves the 60 year old base technology we are starting with. I am not a stickler for originality while trying to achieve either of the above, although I don't want to radically (a subjective, I know) alter the looks. I like the idea of being able to get 10 sheets of drywall from the big box hardware store or a used 302 engine from the wrecker's yard in the bed. Truth is I was looking for an F1 truck when the F3 popped up and the combination of price and condition could not be ignored.
Having never done this with American iron before, I guess I'm just a bit nervous about making wrong decisions up front and having someone more knowledgeable asking me why the hell I did that (stupid thing) to my truck and not having a good answer. My long experience with restoring British cars has taught me those lessons.
Thanks for all of the input - I value it all. Now if I can just figure out which donor the axle is really from, I will commit to use it on the F3 and purchase the necessary brake parts to proceed.
Brain75 Bryan: - I already have a changeout plan for the front axle to go to 5 x 5.5 there as well as the rear. I agree that having all four corners the same is a distinct benefit.
52Merc Wayne: - You are right that I didn't share my intended use for the truck with the group, so here goes. This is a project truck to keep me busy and happy in retirement when that happens in 2-3 years. I want the truck to be reliable and comfortable enough that I can plan on a 250 - 500 mile journey without either breaking down or having to visit a chiropractor by the halfway point. I want a safe vehicle - recognizing the inherent limitations of that statement when it involves the 60 year old base technology we are starting with. I am not a stickler for originality while trying to achieve either of the above, although I don't want to radically (a subjective, I know) alter the looks. I like the idea of being able to get 10 sheets of drywall from the big box hardware store or a used 302 engine from the wrecker's yard in the bed. Truth is I was looking for an F1 truck when the F3 popped up and the combination of price and condition could not be ignored.
Having never done this with American iron before, I guess I'm just a bit nervous about making wrong decisions up front and having someone more knowledgeable asking me why the hell I did that (stupid thing) to my truck and not having a good answer. My long experience with restoring British cars has taught me those lessons.
Thanks for all of the input - I value it all. Now if I can just figure out which donor the axle is really from, I will commit to use it on the F3 and purchase the necessary brake parts to proceed.
Making wrong decisions is a definite issue especially with novices, listening to what you read in enthusiast magazines (which frequently recommend or promote their advertiser's products by making them look like editorial features, after all stock beam axles don't buy much ad space, They also feature vehicles with all the whistles and bells added to show off the skills of a pro builder or the deep pockets of the owners. ) or the advice of no experience friends who "heard" that it's a "necessary mod" or "the thing to do" without any understanding of why or how much cost, effort is required or that it will make the vehicle actually less suitable for the owner's needs. IFS, and frame swaps are glaring examples. I posted my different method of making a build plan, it can be found in this post: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...1955-f250.html
Have you read this on ID ing 9" axles?: 1948 through 1960 Ford F-1 and F-100 Rear Axle (differential) Swaps .: Articles
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#8
The front axles and steering components are all the same for F1-3. All you'd need to do to swap to 5 lugs on the front is to replace the hubs/brakes from an F1, or install an aftermarket disc brake kit. The springs will be heavier, but all else is the same.
If your intent was to use the truck like a typical 1/2 ton, the 9" will work fine. If it's the right width and the spring pads are in the correct location (above or below the axle tubes), chances are it's a truck rear (pads above) and will essentially bolt right in. The 9" Ford axle is tried and true and as long as the bearings are in good shape, it'll take anything that truck, and you, can dish out.
If your intent was to use the truck like a typical 1/2 ton, the 9" will work fine. If it's the right width and the spring pads are in the correct location (above or below the axle tubes), chances are it's a truck rear (pads above) and will essentially bolt right in. The 9" Ford axle is tried and true and as long as the bearings are in good shape, it'll take anything that truck, and you, can dish out.
#9
Thanks AXracer and 52 Merc.
Actually my plan for the front end is, as you both suggested, to put F1 hardware on to get the 5 x 5.5 all around I am looking for. I have the two wheels worth of F1 hardware on the shelf waiting to put on once I get the rear end issues put to bed.
I went out in the garage tonight and measured and inspected my replacement rear axle and determined that it a) is 61" axle flange to flange, b) has no rear inspection cover, c) has two dimples and no oil level plug in the rear. Based on the document that AXracer pointed me to that seems to pretty definitively nail it down to a 9" rear from a 1958-59 F-100. I am going to order the new brake components for it based on that.
Thanks again both for your good counsel.
Actually my plan for the front end is, as you both suggested, to put F1 hardware on to get the 5 x 5.5 all around I am looking for. I have the two wheels worth of F1 hardware on the shelf waiting to put on once I get the rear end issues put to bed.
I went out in the garage tonight and measured and inspected my replacement rear axle and determined that it a) is 61" axle flange to flange, b) has no rear inspection cover, c) has two dimples and no oil level plug in the rear. Based on the document that AXracer pointed me to that seems to pretty definitively nail it down to a 9" rear from a 1958-59 F-100. I am going to order the new brake components for it based on that.
Thanks again both for your good counsel.
#10
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