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  #316  
Old 10-10-2014, 06:41 AM
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Jim, I am quite familiar with how they build the tunnels here, I have been in this are long enough I remember the first ERT (downtown) replacing the ER ferry. Also the first Hampton Roads tunnel (HRBT), the Midtown tunnel (the one they are widening) the CBBT (big one opened in 1964) and the Monitor-Merrimac memorial bridge tunnel.

I generally don't use the ER tunnels as they are not really on my route. I take US 13 across the CBBT, then usually I-64 across the HRBT. If the HRBT is really backed up, I usually go around I-64 to I-664 and take the M&M which brings me real close to the house in NN. Since they put the ridiculous tolls on the 1/2 mile ER tunnels, I haven't used them at all. I-264 sort of bisects the I-64/664 loop with the Berkeley Bridge/Downtown tunnel about half way, but if I go that way I get off I-264 and take US 164 out to I-664 as that cuts out about 15 miles.
 
  #317  
Old 10-15-2014, 03:54 PM
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Well, I finally got the lights redone the way I wanted to split them. One power source feeds all the left hand tubes, the other all the right hand tubes. I also have a picture of my first permanent outlet and the completed control box for the doors.

The light pictures are left string only, right string only, both strings. They are fed from opposite sides of the 250VAC line.
 
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  #318  
Old 10-15-2014, 04:28 PM
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Looks good, Bill. That way you can balance the load since you'll find, I think, that turning them all on is the way to go.
 
  #319  
Old 10-15-2014, 07:16 PM
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Gary, it will depend on where I'm working whether I turn a full set on or not.
 
  #320  
Old 10-15-2014, 08:56 PM
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That's what I said as well. But, I hit both switches every time now.
 
  #321  
Old 10-15-2014, 09:30 PM
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If I am going to be over on the right side, I probably will only turn one on that row on, it's the left side row.
 
  #322  
Old 10-17-2014, 10:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Gary Lewis
My 50th is one year from next weekend. Yes, I would cover it with 1" Dow styrofoam. In fact, I did. And use Tyvek under that, with a 4 or 6" wide window seal tape on the windows - if you have any.
Gary, I can't use the 1" styrofoam, there isn't the thickness available. I allowed for 1/2" plywood, a layer of Tyvek or tar paper and the vinyl siding. I had figured on possibly using spray in foam on the inside between the outer and a 1/4" inner wall.
 
  #323  
Old 10-17-2014, 10:33 AM
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Ok, understand. Go for the spray-in foam then as that will dramatically reduce infiltration as well as provide good insulation.
 
  #324  
Old 10-20-2014, 08:14 AM
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I now have both sets of lights rewired and connected to the panel. I am just about ready to start closing the front wall in.
 
  #325  
Old 10-20-2014, 11:09 AM
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That's going to be a significant milestone. Cool!
 
  #326  
Old 10-24-2014, 07:57 PM
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Today I started working on the interior walls. I found that, as I figured, 8' to the ceiling puts the beams part way up the curve. I decided to use a 2X6 on the angle I had set up a while back then use 8' 2X4s from the base connector up behind that to locate the proper height and provide a solid support for the storage floor.

Found out that I had to remove the angle to get the 2X4s in. I have only secured the first 2 by drilling 2 holes in the base connector then driving nails through there and the 2X6 into the 2X4.
 
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  #327  
Old 10-24-2014, 08:47 PM
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Will the ceiling joists then go back into the recess to pick up both 2x4's in each recess? Why is there two studs per recess?
 
  #328  
Old 10-24-2014, 09:18 PM
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So I can put a 2X6 across them to set the joists on.
 
  #329  
Old 10-24-2014, 09:42 PM
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Makes sense. What about drilling a pilot hole in the 2x6 sitting on the angle and using a couple of lag bolts to pull each 2x4 to the 2x6 instead of nailing it?
 
  #330  
Old 10-24-2014, 09:46 PM
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If I did, I would have to use galvanized as the 2X4s are pressure treated. I did use galvanized nails.
 


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