Le$$on Learned... for 0BA, 1BA, EAB owners
#16
#17
#19
I wanted to get the word out to all the guys who have '51 - '52's with original engines. Offhand I can think of at least 4 who have fresh engines, or are in the process. It should be a one-time additional cost. Once the old lead-coated seats are disturbed, they could fail quickly. Depends on use...
Dick, I'm blushing
#20
I don't know why you guys harp on the clutch. It shifts fine, you guys have to realize that with the non-synchronized tranny you just can't pull the thing out of gear and get it back in again like you can with the synchronized transmission. I never have trouble shifting between gears as long as I double clutch it. When I come to a stop I have to wait until I'm at a full stop and then I can move to 2nd and take off.
Maybe I'm wrong but that's how it's always worked from day one when I installed the new clutch, that was over 30 years ago but it pretty much sat in storage until about 20 years ago.
Maybe I'm wrong but that's how it's always worked from day one when I installed the new clutch, that was over 30 years ago but it pretty much sat in storage until about 20 years ago.
#21
I asked some experts (automotive engineers who actually design engines) and their unanimous response is that any unleaded gas requires hardened seats. Gasohol not so much a direct issue. There are apparently some lead substitutes ($20/qt) that contain actual lead, not the snake oil stuff, that "may" help. I'm just biting the bullet.
#22
Fortunately or unfortunately, slightly more modern engines with hydraulic lifters would have kept on running much longer, even with soft seats. The valves may have recessed into the heads but the lifters would have compensated for the wear.
I've seen engines with soft seats run hard on propane and the valves were beat down into the heads, way below the normal seat area.
#25
I'm doing both, even tho the intakes were in good shape. Ford did both prior to '51, and the cost and inconvenience now is not that much. My machinist gets seats for about $3 each (intake and exhaust are identical), and he's estimating 4 - 5 hours machine work, plus grinding the new seats about $60.
#26
I don't know why you guys harp on the clutch. It shifts fine, you guys have to realize that with the non-synchronized tranny you just can't pull the thing out of gear and get it back in again like you can with the synchronized transmission. I never have trouble shifting between gears as long as I double clutch it. When I come to a stop I have to wait until I'm at a full stop and then I can move to 2nd and take off.
Maybe I'm wrong but that's how it's always worked from day one when I installed the new clutch, that was over 30 years ago but it pretty much sat in storage until about 20 years ago.
Maybe I'm wrong but that's how it's always worked from day one when I installed the new clutch, that was over 30 years ago but it pretty much sat in storage until about 20 years ago.
#27
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#30
well doc/all I had the 226 with original non-synchro.. first thing I did was adjust the clutch (3/4 in freeplay on pedal travel before you feel the pressure of the throwout bearing - perfect adjustment)... it behaved llike bob says. only 2 gears possible once you get out of rythm, 1st and R - and both those are only possible from a DEAD stop. just like a semi in my experience. you learn the feel and find the synch by feel. and yes doc, even at a dead stop you kinda have to "be sure" of 1st not timid about it.