Fantastic job my man.... nice work!!! You

 

Wow, nice job but I think I would still be intimated to do this myself.

 

Hey bud, i'm not judging you nor tryn to argue. I'm just tryn to help from what i've "taken" in. All the threads i came across..(lots of them, was in EXACT same boat as you are), and i threw the towel in. Was better for me to find a used one and get back on road, then, knowing me, struggling with this, and losing $$$ with truck down. I know have a spare axle waiting for the elim crush insert to be installed. I may re-go thru this thread and replace the bearing in it, as you did, since im not in a pinch.....either way, here's a good "read"....and like i said, hope all goes great for ya

Diff crush sleeve [Archive] - PowerStrokeArmy

 

Thanks my brother. Much appreciated. I will read it.

BTW I couldnt find the crush sleeve eliminator kit for a Ford 10.5 on Randy's Ring and Pinion. www.ringpinion.com/b2c/

 

its "for" a 9' rearend....

Sterling 10.5" differences - PowerStrokeNation : Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum

 

No, but it will be added to the tech folder, which is a sticky.

I just now saw this thread and got all jazzed thinking I got another thread to add to the revamping I'm doing (with Scott's blessing) to the tech folder thread.

You can check out what's been done so far. It's under construction right now.

Scott is (cookie88), Jim is (megawatt00), and I am.

Click on any forum and on that opening page, the moderators are listed in red above all the thread listings.

Stewart

 

Hey ya'll,

Im stuck and need some advice. So originally the Ford mechanic told me to just R&R (remove and replace and put the 2 carrier shims in as I found them. Well it doesnt look like its going to be that simple. When I put the carrier shims back in, the backlash on the ring gear was too much....20+ thousands. So the Ford mechanic said..."are you sure you didnt mix up the shims? Try switching them the other way and see what happens." WELL, I did that and the backlash was perfect...12thousands +/- a few depending on the gear tooth.

So I decided to paint the gears with some non drying prussian blue marking paint from Permatex and see the gear to gear contact. It showed too much contact towards the toe (outter edge). Not centered enough a pattern (as per the instructional pictures I posted above).


hmmm... not good. I dont know why this is. Ok so maybe I did have the shims in the correct place the first time.....but I had way too much backlash when the shims were in the original position. hmmmm

Their is one interesting detail. The shims, especially the driver side carrier shim, are very grooved. I dont know if this is normal. Did anyone find this type of pattern in their stock shims? (Ill post some pics)



Here is the inside of the passenger side washer/shim. Its also grooved...but much less so.




I wonder if the cups/races for the bearings have had been spinning around in the case causing the groove in the shims. Is this extra space (from the worn in shims) the reason I have this poor tooth to tooth contact pattern with the OEM shim now that I have new cups/races and bearings?

At least the contact pattern on the pinion teeth looks decent:



Your thoughts are appreciated!

 

ok so I brought the shims to a guy that works on some of our trucks (actually he said they are so thick that they would be called "washers" not shims) and he said that the wear pattern was not normal and the cause is the cup/race (which is MUCH harder metal than the shim) spinning around and wearing into the washer/shim.

He said I should first try and flip the shim around so the ungrooved side of the new race doesnt sink into the shim and throw off the backlash (and preload on the new bearings). Makes perfect sense but I think I did that and it didnt help much. Maybe the entire thing wore down from spinning around in the case.

Anyway...when my back recovers from the pain of being under the truck and pulling that 100 pound differential in and out while sitting on my tookus, Im gonna try it yet AGAIN.

BTW in case anyone is curious, there is a carrier bearing shim kit for the 10.25 differential which is also cross-listed with the 10.5 which you can order from Advance Auto parts , MOTIV brand, for like $30. Come with 4 relatively thick shims and bunch of .0085., .0105 shims. Weird increments. Not sure why they have them down to 5 ten thousands difference. Ford only sells in limited thousands-increments.



The pic below shows some of the shims from MOTIV that I measured. Dont pay attention to the measurements...some of them are missing a zero after the "."....in other words, they are thinner than the # indicates by an order of magnitude.



The mechanic told me not to try and make up the 0.2770 inch (?..cant remember the exact measurement) washer-shim with a bunch of skinny shims...he said it would be problemmatic. Also, its very hard to get the heavy differential into the case with a wad of skinny shims. They move around and come out of place, that much I know from doing this myself. Not sure if the MOTIV kit is meant to be a replacement for the FORD shims or if its just for making adjustments.

I will agree that its hard to get an exact thickness measurement when you have more than 2 shims together. You need to measure each one independently and then add the measurements on a calculator or paper. DONT squeeze them together with the caliper and expect a proper reading. It doesnt work...trust a dummy like me.

 

If your backlash is correct it Looks like you need to add shims to the pinion bringing it closer to the ring gear. I would not reuse any old shims and if the carrier goes in and out easy with the old shims you preload is not correct anyway

 

Mec500, with the original 2 washer/shims the diff does go in relatively easily. Its definitely not possible to reuse the original shims as Im getting too much backlash. 20-22 thousands.

****, it so bad I can actually shake the entire diff in the pumpkin and watch the washer/shim slide up and down. That was my indication that the entire diff was sitting in the pumpkin too loose.

Im not gonna mess with the pinion unless I cant get the carrier shims correct. Unless you tell me otherwise. I cant add anymore adversity to this! My head is spinning and my back hurts from pulling that damn thing in and out while sitting down!

 

Unfortunately it looks like the pinion depth is incorrect to me. How much backlash do you have currently ?

Something's not adding up here. How are the bearing fits for the outer races either side of the pinion? If a race has spun your housing may now be out of spec. Wich your badly grooved side washers seem to indicate

 

YAY! Krochus is here! hahaha.

Bearing fits?

Ok so if the housing if out of spec can I just add more shims to the carrier bearings or am I out of luck all together?

 

With out the pinion depth setting tool you may have to R&R the pinion a few time to get it right . Start with the carrier shims at zero preload and NO play in the bearings then move shims from one side to the other untill you get correct backlash then dye check.(with a ring and pinion that were run with bad bearings a perfect wear pattern may not be possible) .then if every thing is right install pinion crush sleave and seal set preload then carrier preload shims .

 

The actual bore where the side bearing outer races fit. What kind of condition is it in and how does a race fit when you have a cap installed with no carrier?

When you shim everything together and you shake the carrier around up or down do the outer races move too?

What I'm trying to rule out is the possibility that your axle housing is worn out.

 

Well I have pics of that (of course hahaha). This is the first pumpkin Ive ever looked at so I have no experience/reference. But here some closeups:

Here is the driver side:



And the inside of the cap (also driver side I believe):



I dont appear to have taken a pic of the inside passenger side cap but it would look similar.

And the passenger side:




I even have a pic of the outside of the old race/cup from the drivers side (those bearings were pitted to hell and its the washer with the deep groove). Here:


When I put in any shims or switch the original washers to opposing sides the diff has to be pounded into place with a hammer (and peice of wood). Then I have to pry the sucker out with a pry bar, little by little. Well even with the washers in the original positions I need a prybar, but it comes out more easily.