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Just bring #1 to TDC compression and stab the distributor in so the rotor is pointing at the #1 terminal.
Rotate it a little bit clockwise and fire it up.
I was planning on trying this earlier, but the marks not lining up had me scratching my head for a while and I gave up for the day. I'll give it a shot tomorrow, if it starts we'll see if it vibrates I guess.
So, the only explanation for the marks not lining up is the damper slipped, is this common?
I was planning on trying this earlier, but the marks not lining up had me scratching my head for a while and I gave up for the day. I'll give it a shot tomorrow, if it starts we'll see if it vibrates I guess.
So, the only explanation for the marks not lining up is the damper slipped, is this common?
Is this engine entirely new? or was it just freshened up?
If the mark doesn't line up the damper must have slipped. If so, it will slip again, and there is no reason to put a new set of marks on with a tape. I wouldn't run it with a slipped damper as the outer ring can come off and do serious damage. Why not replace it now?
I will replace it if it needs to be done, which it sounds like it needs to be. To bad, I just sleeved the one I have. I usually like to buy Ford parts instead of aftermarket when I can, are the Ford dampers known to slip? Should I buy aftermarket?
Over time the rubber gets hard and loses it's grip.
If it is bulging out you definitely have an issue.
It's not just Ford, all common dampers can do this.
Bring yours to the store and match it up to a new one.
With the keyways aligned, do the marks match too?
Over time the rubber gets hard and loses it's grip.
If it is bulging out you definitely have an issue.
It's not just Ford, all common dampers can do this.
Bring yours to the store and match it up to a new one.
With the keyways aligned, do the marks match too?
Thanks, I'll take it off and compare it to a new one. Is it a better idea to get the Ford one though?